scottiej

The D5100R is more powerful than the D925 and worth the extra $$

X2

I know this dude that has some... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...40&start=40

Hey Brad, If you want added reserve for your amps, adding an additional XS Power D3100 (Powermaster doesnt sale batteries) would certainly benifit you. Regarding the alternator, I would recommend 250A with at least 1 1/0 Power and Ground cable to the rear battery. Running two may reduce voltage drop, and would not be a bad idea. Hope this helps! Thanks!

Congrats guys!

The specs look OK for a 100lb battery that is meant for UPS backup duty. This style battery was never designed for audio use, but for that matter neither are many of the other products on the market today. The XS Power batteries are purpose built to work with high current amplifiers for maximum daily or SPL power. Not to mention you get customer support from people who know SPL and car audio for 3 years after you purchase, and not a group of guys that build batteries for backup power supply systems. FYI: A 134Ah battery means that it can produce 6.7A of current for 20 hours... 6.7A x 20hrs = 134Ah. Does this spec really tell us which battery is better for car audio? I don't think it does... I would rather compare head to head, or listen to someone that has like Steve Meade, Tommy McKinnie, etc...

Wont hurt a thing! Looks sweet too! The machine shop is making adaptors to allow the I-BAR's to bolt right up for future projects...

This will be a great addition to my collection!

I'm not sure... I havn't had a chance to play with one yet. Likely the same size as the D2700...

The batcap 2000 is actually a pretty good battery for it's size. However, I wouldnt put it ahead of the D1200 and certainly not ahead of the D3100 like I've seen suggested. Could it provide power for 2000W? Sure, in some cases it would be fine. Would I suggest if for someone with 2000A of draw? Not a chance!

Probably not... I've been watching for some D1200's to come in on returns, but nothing... patiently waiting...

X2... charge them both together in the AGM low, 25A setting. Should be fine...

Charge them up and load test as I described on termpro. If they accept charge and hold a load then there will be no need to call for warranty. If you do end up determining that they are bad and you do want to switch brands, you can do so without changing anything with the install. The XS Power D2700 will drop right in place where the HC2000's were. http://www.4xspower.com

Kinetik does not recommend using the HC600 or 800 for starting. Check the chart below to properly choose which battery to use as either the primary (only battery in the vehicle) or secondary (used along with OEM battery). http://www.4xspower.com/caraudio.html

Ok... testing, tweaking, and understanding batteries is my job... it's what I do and know. Trust me... this is not an apples to apples comparison. Consult an expert... test for yourself... do something other than make assumptions... please. The problem here is that you are making incorrect assumptions to draw your conclusions. While I am sure Ed listens to music with his system on occasion, the numbers he has quoted are from competition runs. Our wattage chart was not created to determine the needs of world class SPL competitors. As a competitor I can tell you that there has never been a time when I have thought to myself "I am going to follow the manufacturer's recommendations to try and break a world record." My subs were rated at 2,000W... I used 15,000W, my amps were recommended to run at 2ohms... I ran them at .35ohms, box was recommended 1" thick MDF... I used 20" plus! I know what it takes to compete successfully, and I have built and installed daily driver systems for over 15 years... please tell me where you see a misconception, and please tell me I have something to hide! I guarantee you that if Ed wanted to pound out his system you would have to exit from the vehicle long before he ran out of juice to power the amp. Hey... be my guest! Keep picking! Kinetik claimed their 16V to be 1050CA. A Cranking Amp test is an industry standard performance test that is fully verifiable. Do you want to know what the Independent Testing Laboratory found it to be? Would you believe 492A? Powermaster didn't claim it, they proved it in Federal Court. It's a public case btw, so feel free to waste more of your time digging up the results for yourself if you wish. So again... I urge you to please buy or borrow some of our products and prove to me that they do not do what we say they will. Oh... while we're on the topic of value... lets do some comparisons here and see how they work out, ok? 3 - HC2400's $329ea (first price found on google search) = $987 8 - D925's $139ea (normal internet price from google) = $1112 Total difference = $125... SPL gained +2db... when I was a competitor, I would have spent thousands to gain 2+db!!! Wanna look at it a different way? Lets compare weight, ok? 3 - HC2400's 69lbs ea. = 207lbs. 8 - D925's 26.63lbs ea. = 213lbs. hmm... 6 pound difference. Same amount of weight... +2dB for $125 extra. Am I getting through to you yet??? What you do with Batcap is your business... that does not pertain to this topic. Stating that our marketing is wrong, is bashing. You are trying to convince the buying public that our recommendations are purposely wrong or misleading, when in fact they are not. You are entitled to your opinion, if you choose to ignore our recommendations that is fine, I get your point. Now you can "be done with it" Fine by me if you wanna hide behind a screen name... I was just checking to see if you were going to stand behind your statements, or just hide behind them at your computer. You made the obvious choice. After all the explanation I've given, I am afraid comprehension > you Sir.

I take any post seriously that contradicts the way we present our company. You are certainly welcome to your opinion, and I, as well as others value that. The forums are here for the sole purpose of contributing to the community, and that is why we (XS Power) are here. For you to repeatedly boast that our ratings and recommendations are wrong (instead of that you do not totally agree with them) is not contributing, it is bashing. I would have no issue with you disagreeing with our recommendations if you had actual experience with our products. However, you can-not use your experience with your battery to determine the performance of ours, just as I would not use my experience driving my Malibu to determine the performance of a Vette. When you say that “it rubs you the wrong way when the info on our site contradicts what people like you suggest”… maybe this means you should reconsider your suggestions, or maybe (like I’ve said numerous times) you have higher expectations than what the average consumer is looking for. I am sure if we followed your recommendations we would sell a lot more batteries to people that may not need them, but that is not our intention. Our recommendations are a guideline that fits for the majority… if you don’t want to follow our recommendation then that is up to you… you are outside of that guideline. Oh… you avoided the question. Who are you again?

wow... I've got a question for ya loopkiller... Who are you? I mean, as smart as you are about everything it seems, don't you want people to know who you are so they can appreciate all the knowledge you've bestowed upon us? Don't you want to brag about all the competition championships you have won, or all the prestigious degrees that you have earned in engineering, new product development, sales and marketing? Seriously, how much time do you spend searching other forums and formulating a defense against every thread you post in? Is this your full time job? I've never thought about how much it must pay to be a keyboard commando. At XS Power we do not feel that there is any benefit to taking part in confrontational situations on an internet forum. It becomes very difficult to participate and be a part of forum activity if we are continually going to get bashed and second guessed by someone who will not even identify themselves. You have been provided with many examples of the performance of our products, but for some reason you refuse to believe it. As I have asked in another thread on the same subject, please take the opportunity to test one of our batteries and use it as suggested and then tell me it does not work or is over-rated. I have also explained that our wattage recommendations are meant to be used as a general guideline to help enthusiasts choose the best product to fit their needs. If you have extra-ordinary needs, then maybe you should not refer to our recommendations, but use your own methods to determine what you need. You certainly seemed qualified enough to figure out what you need on your own without having to refer to a chart or to anyone else for advice. I really hope that I do not have to continually check the forums only to have to copy and paste this exact post over and over to make sure that the buying public does not get a bad impression from your comments. If you have further technical questions I will be happy to help assist you in your choice of batteries.

Yeah, just under 25lbs. No idea on the accuators... I'm sure JD will know

That could be one heavy back door Ed! Maybe you should motorize it!

The replacement for the HC600 would be the D680.

Ramen... the charger you have is a 2007 model. The price was exactly the same, and only the front decal and a couple of settings were changed between the 2007 and 2008. The functionality of the charger is exactly the same. The internal parts are exactly the same. The logo on the front is really the only difference. sundownz... some street class competiors use the AGM high setting to charge to a slightly higher voltage level right before their SPL run. Other than that, the AGM high setting is of no real use other than to have one additional votlage selection option.

Yes, it's an intellicharger. You should always charge large sealed batteries (anything above 50lbs) in the 25A mode/AGM setting. If after two attempts in the 25A mode you have not reached float mode on a single battery, then I would take the battery to be load tested.

280A is actually more realistic... that should teach me to refrain from technical recommendations at midnight after a full day of it at work! My mistake! The majority of D class amplifiers will actually run around 70% efficient, with efficiency decreasing as power increases. At full output is when you would expect the least efficient situation, and have current draw in the 280A range (not 180 as I originally mentioed) In response to your last comment above: The #1 reason I am subscribed to this post, and continue to provide input on this topic is because I would also hate for our customers to think less of our products simply because of your comments. I hope that the buying consumer that visits this forum does not lose confidence in the recommendations from us (the manufactururer) simply from your comments based on your experience in your own installs (that did not use our product). I would like to invite you to try our batteries out on your next installation... we have put many years of dc electrical experience into the design of our batteries, and I am sure you will be happy with the results. Thanks for your input!

Maybe this chart will help. Instead of the SPV44, I would recommend the D1200.

Yep!