lanman31337

Use your DMM with OHMS settings on the coil. If it doesn't read what the coil should read, then it's cooked.

You're never ever ever ever ever going to blow a sub if you underpower it with clean power. If you would, then every time you turned down the volume, you'd blow the sub. You blew it because you were running an ungodly awful clipped signal. And yes for the most part they will handle more than the rms, only if you run an UNCLIPPED signal.

If it's sealed around the whole circumference, then I'd use a phillips screwdriver and a hammer, or solder if you can. If it has the split, vice grips or vice on one side, then the other.

Please don't run two separate boxes with the subs firing in different directions. That's just asking for cancellation.

What amps do you have? Do they have RCA outs on them? If so, you can daisy chain them to save some room. If you set the gains with a DMM, you can get away with running 2 amps off of 1 sub. I second the MAXX-Link idea as well.

So does that mean I get the old TV stand?

As far as ends Nakamichi makes really good ends. They also make really good banana plugs and other connectors. If you want cheaper ones, Radio Shack has solder-on terminals. I wouldn't use CAT 5 for RCA's. It's a solid wire, and after a few bends it breaks. The wire itself is really brittle. Coax is the same way. It's got a really brittle small center, but the braided outside is pretty good. I'd use 16 gauge shielded stranded cable. They make it with 4 conductors, which would give you a set of RCAs.

They have low strand count wire and solid copper, nothing that would be advantageous to us. They have 12 gauge speaker wire, that's the biggest they have.

I have an AC Epic 160 in the dash, it gives me a rough idea where I'm at.

I cut mine too. Only way to get 35 wide by 17 tall inside the trunk.

I JUST yanked a setup almost identical in my sunfire. I had 4 subs up, port back. I'm redoing it because I get a ton of cancellation, and with the windows down it's 4 db louder.

I see some cooked mosfets. If you have skill with a soldering iron, more than likely you could fix it real cheap.

Time to bust out the meter and check resistances on the wires then, check grounds and positives. You could have a flaky fuse.

Here's the kicker with the 1/4 gain theory. The gain is to match to the voltage of the pre-outs on the head unit. So if I'm running 5v preouts, 1/4 gain might be where I need it. Just keep the volume down and don't wang on them.

I'm getting ready to do a half wall (going to keep it below the back window line and build into the trunk a little) for my Lanzar Optidrive 1232d's. I'm running 4 of them, and I built the box to manufacturer's specs. I went 7.2 cubes after displacement, tuned to 36 hertz with a slot port, and it sounded good. I'm contemplating going slightly bigger, keeping the 36 hertz tune, but going maybe 8 cubes after displacement. Here's the lovely PDF - http://www.lanzar.com/manuals/OPTI1232D.pdf and some stats: QMS = 6.00 Qes = .52 Qts = .48 Xmax = 14 mm Vas (cu.ft.) 1.56 I think it should sound fine with an extra .2 cubic feet per sub. Let me know what you guys/girls think.

The amp changes the DC high amperage to AC lower amperage, and lower volume. Clamp one of the speaker leads one time, you'll see what's up. The more current DC going in, the more current AC coming out.

As the topic says, looking for a maxx-link for my 2 amps please.

Wet sand it with 1500 or 2000 grit and buff it.

I have shaved handles and locks on my sunfire. I'm glad I kept the inside handles on it.

Disconnect all three batteries and check resting voltage. Come back in about an hour or so and check resting voltages again. You may have a bad battery in the mix, and the other two are feeding it to keep the voltages up.

Are you feeding the wire ham sammiches? That would make me dim too. Back to the wire, yes, your 4 gauge wire will let more current pass through than your 8 gauge. Try to put the same current through your 8 gauge and some of the amperage comes out as heat. How warm does the 8 gauge ground get?

Volume = PI x radius squared x height. That'll give you cubic inches. Divide that number by 1728 to get cubic feet.

International Standard of Organization. You've got your single din, 1.5 din, and 2 din, which are all standard sizes for radios. In doing so, most aftermarket dash kits come with the same screws, as well as the radios have the holes for said screws.

They are very inefficent. You can use 2 subs in the same sealed air space as one would be, but you lose half of your power. If both subs are 300 watt rms each, you could only put 150 rms to each sub. It saves space, but with shallow mount subs and subs that like small boxes, Isobaric aren't used too often anymore.

Opti 2000d, 4000d and 6000d are really good amps. They're rated at 14 volts too, same board as the Soundstream xxx series amps. I'm running 4 1232d subs and loving them.