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SQMonte

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Everything posted by SQMonte

  1. I thanked him at least 4-5 times now, i'm still shocked at how far he went with this promotion. He gave away over 4 racks worth of product!!
  2. I had to do a triple take on the port, at first I just though it was a cosmetic piece, when I realized it was a port I looked like this
  3. I'd hold off on getting a lawyer just yet. Just go to court and request a trial, chances are the cop won't show for it and the charges would be dropped. I've had a couple noise pollution tickets tossed like this.
  4. Are that a tweet in the door panel right next to the seat? Interesting placement
  5. you should do a build log in the members build section too
  6. I have an 04 Monte myself so I'd love to see your build. I don't think you can get 12 cubes back there w/o blocking the rear window, but go take some measurements and find out.
  7. does the winner get cut in on profit or are we just doing this out of the kindness of our hearts?
  8. Steve, if you want to hear a real system, come on over and I'll give you a demo of my 6x9's in my Monte Make sure you bring hearing protection http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif But seriously though, when do I get a demo?
  9. Same here. I liked two songs off it, Lemon Drops and Bizzy Body
  10. Sorry, but i'm calling :bs: on anybody running 24 mids off 2 channels
  11. Nothing wrong with that so long as you ensure metal to metal contact. I did the same when I did this on my 89 Civic
  12. *pops my collar* Glad to hear that's all it was, nothing worse than your stereo not working and you not knowing why.
  13. If the sub is working, my guess would be a blown fuse on your mids/highs amp or the fuse on the power lead that feeds the mids/highs amp. First thing I'd do is check voltage at the amp, if you're getting voltage then a blown fuse probably isn't the issue. If you don't get any voltage, check the fuse on the main power lead that feeds the amp. If that's blown then it's very likely it's grounding out somewhere so you'd need to follow the wire all the way back to see where. That's where I'd start. Good luck man
  14. I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you bro, I clarified what I initially said. I agree, the way I said it insenuated that it ONLY takes the path of least resistance, hence my clarification.I think it's a good idea, especially for noobs, to leave the factory wiring intact when doing this upgrade just in case. I wasn't going to leave my wiring in but I did for a couple reasons; I wasn't able to locate the block -> chassis ground and the wires going to my battery negative terminal were connected via proprietary connector...I could upgrade the terminal but I don't have one yet.
  15. I agree 100%I'm tired of these fools and all the propaganda they've been promoting as of late, and the threats don't help either. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't worried about them because I am, I just hope no matter what that we're able to protect our country from these idiots. I also hope they aren't as dumb as they seem because i'm pretty sure we have the ability to wipe them off the map if we so choose, but i'm pretty sure we'd let them make the first move before going all out and that's what worries me.
  16. It's a simple way of looking at a simple scenario. You're wrong though, electricity DOES take the parth of least resistance, but it also takes all other paths available to it. To clarify, electricity doesn't ONLY take the path of least resistance, however the amount of current through each path is inversely proportional to its electrical resistance. So if you took measurements of current flowing through the subwoofers in your example above it would come as no surprise that the one w/less resistance would be the one with more current flowing through it.This can be proven by an issue all of us have dealt with at one time or another, the dreaded disco lights. When you're overextending your electrical system in your car due to high powered stereo system, you can see the effects of this when the lights dim when a large draw is placed on the system by the amplifier.
  17. Nice results there. I had similar results once I did the Big 3, which was actually the Big 2 since I didn't have enough wire to do the positive alt lead yet.
  18. I've seen people do that, I keep my grounds to the chassis myself
  19. since electricity travels the path of least resistance, it makes absolutely no difference if you leave the factory grounds in or take them out
  20. First, multiple successive posts isn't necessary, just click the "quote" button on each post you want to reply to and then click "add reply" so you can respond to all of them in a single post.The ground from block to chassis is different on each vehicle, however, that ground is there basically to ground out the alternator, which is grounded to the engine block, which is grounded to the chassis. That being said, you can use a bolt on the alternator bracket and run it to the chassis in the spot of your choice, just make sure to grind the surface down to bare metal.
  21. You can run the power lead from the alt to the battery but should run the ground to the chassis. My only suggestion would be to fuse the power lead according to the current capacity of the wire you're using.
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