Hotdog

That looks like fun.. forget the fishing just get you a case and chill on the water.

Lol... do it .

Now that would be sweet

or a rubber roller that moved with the moving part of the chamber so it is sealed all the time.

dont know about a telescoping port.

have a removable port with a port made for each ratio. Markers in place so you know what ratio you are at.

Ok I modeled this up so you can see what I am talking about. Since I have been doing a lot of thinking on 4th orders and how people say more ratio = more output. Well why not the best of both worlds with a an expandable 4th order. The bottom is not on in this pic so you can see what I am thinking. You can slide your enclosure in and out and get the ratio you want. Say if you are doing a 2:1 ratio then you would be able to double that to 4:1 room permitting. Slide the box and bolt it in and your ready to go. What do you think ?

yes you can do that.

Quick Google search and found what I was talking about. This is someone else build on the forum. This is the V shape I am talking about.

I will be there. White Mercury Mountaineer

|/ \| like that I sketch something when I get home

I would put more of a "V" shape to the walls so they are firing forward more.

you mean 2ft3 per sub on the sealed side right. Everything else looks ok

I may be looking ahead but since you now have some good beat in the Lexus do you ever think you will re-visit the thought of walling the Tahoe?

I love the purple lighting the best. Also man you got some skills

Get a multimeter and test your speaker wire leads. No one can tell you what your Ohm load is. It could be a dual 2 ohm sub or a dual 4 ohm sub Dual 2 ohm would be either 8ohm or 2 ohm or .5ohm Dual 4 ohm would be either 1ohm or 4 ohm or 16 ohm

The whole loading wall will be removable My thought is to use 2x2 around the outside of the chamber up front and put z nuts in the 2x2 so when I put my loading wall in I can bolt it in tight. Still have a lot of thinking to do. But I was thinking about the loading wall with a center port that way I can put it in half's followed by putting in the port. Wont really know for sure until I get to that point and figure out what will work best. maybe 17.5x17.5x4" for port area.. but just guessing at this point.

That was a good move on your part. i did mine exactly the same way. i was able to squeeze 36 cubes out of my little explorer like that. box is huge and heavy but fit like a glove. my only recommendation is that you bolt it down really well. if it slides right in that means it will easily slide forward as well. i know your not a noob so im sure youve already thought of this That is why the bottom piece is only one layer. The other sheet is going to be bolted down into the vehicle before I slide the box in then it will be screwed down to that sheet. Then where the seats are bolted down In second row I will use all those bolts to secure the box also. Trust me I do not want 700+ lbs coming at me.

The box was designed so I can slide it in and pull it out if need be. Heavy as hell but two of us were able to move it around and lift it with out too much strain. So much work to do now. Kinda like oh shit what did I get my self into about 3am in the morning kinda things.

that is what a 4th order is. A sealed enclosure inside a ported chamber. I can not put the loading wall on until it is in car and sealed around the edge. That is when I will put it on the Dayton audio Dats and find my Resonant peak of my Sealed enclosure. my Resonant peak is what I will tune my loading wall to,

Started my 4th order box today. Still in progress hopefully I will have it ready for Slamology. I will will probably finish up next weekend but its going to take probably all weekend and all nighters to get it done. This will be a hair over a 3:1 Ratio with 4 15's I will figure the tuning out once I get it in the car and put it on the dats. I am thinking somewhere about 360 Sq inched port area