Hotdog

Got them at Menards they are only like $2.79 a peice... I wanted the option of changing the tuning on the fly. I can cut different port lengths for a different tune and all I have to do is remove the screws from the flange and pull it out with the tube and pull one tube off and put the other one on in a matter of a few minutes. Sounds really good.. I think we brain stormed the box for like 3 hours trying to get the perfect dimensions or should I say perfect volume for each sub after Sub and port displacement. It is definitely a lot louder.

So Yesterday me and a friend build another box to hold the 12's and 15's.. it is a dual chamber box with the ports for both chambers firing out the rear at 33hz. never the less here are a few pics of the process. Before Progress Pics Putting The Subs back in Now that is is all finished it sounds really good.. lots of flex for just 1 t10001bd amp pushing these. I will add another T10001bd later. The ports on the back are made with 4" PVC there is two 4" Ports per chamber and they are screwed to the box with a 4" Flange that way I can remove the flange and remove the PVC from the flange and put a different port on for a different tune... maybe one for driving and one for getting my SPL . There is another Meca comp this month so I am going to get it re-metered with the new box. I also made a cover for the box that conceals the subs so they are not visible but they can breath. I dont have a picture of that yet, I made it today

Man putting your head in the picture really gives you a good perspective on how big that 18" DC is... damn.

Definitely Rockford Fosgate

I remember playing Pong when it first cam out. Still playing movies at home on a 8mm reel to reel. There were no cell phones or texting.. I thinks kids now days would die if they could not text.

You never know.. maybe it will be the parents that are going to put the wall in That was pretty cool of Steve to do that... I bet that kid was freaking out the whole time he was driving. Its not that fact that it is a 2001 Tahoe but the actual value of the vehicle and everything in it. It is something I know that guy will never forget.

Steve, I know you said you were wanting to get these Ibeams and I see that they are on sale right now at Crutchfield. Thought you might want to know Rockford Fosgate IBeam IB-200 - Tactile transducer — delivers subwoofer kick without high sound pressure levels Special Savings $349.99 Savings - $120.00 Your Price $229.99

If technically your still married and you have a child together... her family should be a non issue. I had issues with my parents wanting to get involved with my marriage and I actually did not talk to them for 1 year but they finally came back around and everything worked out. They are just trying to control your wife and as soon as she puts her foot down maybe they will be upset but they will get over it. Your immediate family always comes first.

ok... I have to ask why do you want an Ibeam? your shit is going to hit hard enough.. damn. You wanting everyones eyes to fall out

Hell as much popularity you have gained you could autograph your amps and make double the money I sure what ever you put together is going to be sweet... could you do a sketch up of your box plans? What are you doing with the old box?

Sweet... now you can get an even better vehicle

I got one exactly like that.. but I am using it sorry. I just picked it up last month

A friend of mine got his box filled with packing peanuts one time when he did not know it and when he hit a bass note they all come flying out of the ports like it was Christmas time. just another idea if you dont mind the clean up

Nice.. nothing like watching Florescent bulbs explode. you know what would be cool to try.. put a paddle ball on the roof and make that ball bounce. Have to clamp it to the roof rack or something.

Looks like in one of those Pics that Advanced Mobile Systems in Garden Grove California did it. Advanced Mobile Systems (714) 799-1799 8038 Garden Grove Blvd, Garden Grove, CA 92841

How much do you think all the aftermarket equipment is worth... hell you could probably buy the hummer and sell all the equipment to pay it off.

http://www.finishlineford.net/used-invento...seHistory=true# Click on the images and you can scroll through them. Vehicle Comments What a deal!!!! How exclusive is this!!!! This super low mileage 2004 Hummer H2 was built to go to the SEMA show in Las Vegas! This truck features 9 Kicker Amps, 12 pairs of Kicker Component speakers, 6 Subwoofers, 7 Video screens, DVD player, 14 monitor in the dash, Custom rear air suspension to hold up the weight of the stereo, 24 Chrome wheels and tires, Strobe lights in the front and rear, custom Xenon headlights, custom faux marble onthe dash and doors, and many more custom features! Just in, this wonderful 2004 Hummer H2 comes with a 6.0L V8 SMPI 16V Gasoline engine and 4WD.. Why drive a boring little commuter car when you can drive this H2 and arrive in luxury!!!! The Tubular Assist Steps, Air Springs, Front & Rear Heated Seats, Leather Seat Trim, and Electric Tilt-Sliding Power Sunroof should be on top of your list for things to check out when you come look at this vehicle. We can assist with all of your delivery options from local in-state delivery to national and international delivery. Please contact us for more details or to schedule an appointment for a test drive. Please call for more information.

Someone else told me it would be lower at the dash in my other topic. Anyway what does the first number mean that is on the left side?

This is from the Meca Car show held in Canton Illinois on Sunday July 19 2009. A little explanation on my class... I was in the M3 class M = Modified this is because my box was about 1/4" too tall it was just a hair past the rear seat and I was in class 3 based on fusing at 150 amps. I was only running the T10001bd at 2ohms sow just 750 RMS to the 4 subs. I did have a good time and the people were very helpful with advice. I know I will be rebuilding the box in the future and I will have a better setup as far as subs and electrical go. Run #1 on the TL Vehicle Sealed TL at the head rest Run #2 on the TL Driver door open Window down TL at the headrest Looking forward to my next competition now. Also just so you know my peak was at 48 hz

OK.. i finally got it fixed... First take a look at this Pic then I will explain my thoughts on this. This is on a 4.6l V8 Motor used in either Ford Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer. In this picture you can see the 2 silver nuts that I put on the bolt that you can adjust your idle with.. I was not able to turn the bolt so I went to parts store and got some nuts that fit the bolt that way I can put two on and one locks the other one in place so I can turn the bolt out. After playing with this for a little I was able to adjust my idle up to 1000rpm when in park and when it is put in gear it drops to 750 rpm. It works great now voltages stay up where they are suppose to be plus higher RMP more amps I get. I really don't know what caused my problem but I am wondering if bass vibration could have possibly slightly moved this bolt causing me to idle lower then normal... which caused volts to drop.. which caused vehicle to die when coming to a stop. It did not take a lot of adjustment to get things back to normal... maybe 1/2 turn would have done it but I went 1 full turn. for anyone that has a 4.6l Ford motor the size of nuts that I had to get were #5 at Auto zone.

1. Yes it is a stock alternator puts out about 135amp but I dont know what it is suppose to do at Idle. 2. I am not going to mess with taking this Alternator off because I am ordering the Mechman Rhino Alt and XS Battery in about a week. Going to need bigger anyway and Thanks I try to check everything out.. . tried to rule each and every part out. my three conclusions above was all I could think of. How ever after looking more I notice there is a small bolt on the back side of the engine that you can adjust the throttle position. I have not done it yet but I was thinking of adjusting that enough that my idle is not so low and in the possess my voltages will be a little higher.

Nice... next one you can do can be called jumpers... For all those that bail out when you turn the beat up.

Can you replace this cable that I have the arrow pointing at?... This is the last thing I can think of. I am assuming that this is the voltage regulator cable. Does the Mechman Rhino Alt come with a new cable to plug in here?

Anyone? I have the whole day off to mess with this thing... I need your guys brain power. Unless you think my assumption is right

Ok.. today I I removed the distribution block on the Negative battery terminal and replaced it with one that can I can bolt down all my connection too... Problem still remains. Keep in mind this did not use to be a problem after I did the big 3 I was able to idel at 14.1 / 14.2 volts... I started noticing the problem when I Switched out my Rockford P6002 amp with a Rockford T10001 amp. Here are some of the things I have tried. 1. Disconnected all the wiring except factory wiring .... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 2. Just factory wires with 1/0 from alt to battery... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 3. Just factory wires with 1/0 from alt to Fuse Box... Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. 4. Put all my wiring back... 1/0 from Alternator to Positive Terminal fused with 200amp... 1/0 from Positive terminal to Distribution block in car Fused with 150amp... 1/0 Battery Negative terminal to Chassis... 2ga ground from Negative terminal to block... 1/0 from Alt to Chassis...Start vehicle up it goes to 13.9 volts until warmed up then drops down to 12.4, put it in gear volts fluctuate between 11.9 and 12.2. At this point all I can think of is Three things... Voltage regulator in alternator is bad or I blew a diode in the alternator or I have a dead cell in my battery.. Battery is only 2 months old I am getting a Mechman Rhino 250 Alternator and XS D3100 at the first of the month so have to see if the problem still persists after these two upgrades. Any thoughts or suggestions?