D-train-13k

itd be better than just 1 run. if you cant get the money together now. itll at least buy you some time until you can purchase 1/0 OFC or try this company. i dont have any experience with them but i was recomended it from someone on here OFC welding

2 runs of cca would work just as good. but i feel ya. moneys tight these days

this is cheap and shipping is cheap too Edit: oops wrong one. thats CCA heres the OFC

i would check how your volt meter is reading. is it placed at the front battery or at the back. the closer the reading is to your amp the more accurate.

liked

when does it end?

haha wow..

im about to buy an old 4 cam 4.6 v8 i need a new ecm system because my truck is only a v6 at the moment. do yall have any suggestions on good companys that are decently priced thanks in advance

Yeah it may be awhile before I can get one and the power to push it. I think the X would like that 3500 more. lol haha i agree. itll slam. ive actually been looking at your build to get some inspiration for mine ahaha. i have a 2000 f150 with the same body style.

you getting something bigger for the solox? edit: just saw the post about bc 3500 lol

i dont think thatd matter.. unless it calls for 1/0. dc 1.2k only used 4g and will produce alot of power

Hmmm....Any idea of what to do with it or probably just scrap it? idk before you scrap it post some pics of the guts on here. with good detail. maybe some of the more expereienced guys can take a look for you. not doubting you, but some other eyes but your own may help you spot something

thats true. a starter draws like 120Amps. having dead cell in your battery is bad for you soundsystem as well as any other batterys that are in your vehicle.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens. but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out It was a hit or miss with the interior lights. Sometimes it would click, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would start right up . 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with the inline 6. it could have been a combination of the two. did you take your starter back ? or just keep it.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens. but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

agreed. i would venture to say its the starter selenoid. most vehicles the selenoid will actually keep all the compents of the car from cutting on. and as well it can be a hit and miss with the contacts which explains why it started one time and didnt start the next. i would replace the 5 $ selenoid just for good measure.

Hey I got the same sub on order would u mind shootin me a pm when yours ships so I'll have an idea when mines coming yeah man ill try to remind myself ill probably make a scene about it on here anyways

i think maybe a couple more feet of ground and your good. those I6's are really crowed so youll have a lot of wire management to do.

Why not get real OFC 1/0, instead of tinned, or CCA and cheaping out on one of the most important parts of your build... Save a little more money, and buy some good shit... i figured i could get away with something smaller for now since i wont be going over a 400 watt dual amp that probably only does 125watts for a while. ill probobly go with the knu though since its close to the price of the lanzar no knu is pretty cheap with shipping they use the flat rate boxes from the postal service. youll prolly spend about 15 bucks on shipping

i wouldnt say its a thermal protection. it would be burning hot mostly if it were. i would say maybe its just defective. im pretty sure the kicker amps are made on a factory line. could quite possibly be just a small piece broken on the board that you didnt notice. least thats my guess.

have you checked your connections to make sure that you dont have any strands touching on power and ground

hey jon i had pm'd you a few minutes ago asking some info but idk if you inbox is full or whatever. but i needed to deaden my doors but is there anything else i would need to put on them or would the deadener work. idk much about this stuff. hopefully ill have alot of flex with my 4th order so i knew id need something.

your only going to use a 3/4 peice? and tuning a 4th order to 35 is REALLY low. lol like tuning a ported box to low 20's but i would try to get 1 inch thick plexi cause its going to flex like crazy.

looks good man. what ratio are you going for and tuning?