Maxim

1) Build a box 2) Cover that fucker in this concrete 3) Funky pups 4) ??? 5) Profit!

Hey Matt! I edited your post with a few answers and a few questions of my own.

Somebody needs to cover their box in this. And deaden their doors. I don't care how heavy it is. I want to see MOAR DEEBEEZ!!!

WHAT THE FUCK??? That was amazing!!! STFU dump truck!

Start the footage with the goat pebble shits. Should make for an interesting intro to the Tahoe.

Composition 1 March 15, 2010 How to Bass Race Bass Race is a type of competition format for car audio enthusiasts. It involves a steady hand, great concentration and the ability of your set-up to play consistently and without failing. Upon finishing this informational paper you should have a fair knowledge of how to bass race. The concept behind bass racing is very much similar to bracket drag racing. The classes are broken down into, 120-129.9, 130-139.9, 140-149.9, and 150-159.9. These numbers represent an average decibel level. The aim is to score a perfect 9.9 for your class or as close to that as possible without going over and still having a higher score than your opponent. The SPL sensor is placed on the windshield at a spot designated by a specific measuring device. The car is then sealed up; meaning that all doors and windows are closed. You will want to select a track that is close to the resonant frequency of your vehicle; also commonly referred to as your “peak.” This is easiest on your set-up and allows you just a bit more headroom to come back if you have a bad start. The judge will ask you if you are ready, after you say “yes,” he will queue up the leader board. The board will say “STANDBY” until the countdown is initiated. This is followed by a “READY, SET and GO.” You will want to start as soon as the board says “GO!” (More skilled bass racers start half-way through the word “SET.” This allows for a better start so he can accumulate a higher score faster, but is also more dangerous due to a possible red light violation.) The sensor will begin reading immediately, displaying your average score so far on the board. Try to gain as much score as possible as quickly as possible. This will allow you to take it easy in the last few seconds of the run. You will want to always have your hand on the volume knob so you can make minor adjustments so you don’t fall too far behind or get too far ahead. If you are to start before the word “SET” you will red light. This means that you started before you were supposed to and this results in an automatic zero. Going outside of your specified DB range will also result in an automatic zero. So if you are running the 129.9 class, you cannot score higher than a 129.9 or you will lose. If there is a tie, cars are shut off and there is a re-run. If this results in a second tie, the competitors must exit their vehicles and the engines can be running. If this results in tie number three, cars are to be turned off and competitors must still remain outside of the vehicle. If it somehow boils down to tie number four, a track is randomly selected from the DB Jams Official Disc with the rules of a number three tie still in play. The competitors must then do his/her run with the random track. Any ties thereafter are identical to the fourth tie procedure. This can be rather difficult if the track that is selected is far from where your peak is at. The day begins with qualification. If you qualify in the top eight of your class you head into semi-finals. If you win there, you go to quarter finals. Then the finals round is just you and the other guy who beat everybody else on his side of the brackets. If you win finals you are awarded a trophy for first place and sometimes you will get your money back. There are also trophies for second and third place. Bass race is an exciting and thrilling sport. Tons of great people, loud cars and excellent atmosphere lead to an overall wonderful experience. Hopefully you now know how to bass race competitively. Hope to see you in the lanes.

That truck looks so good. I'd fuck that 'Hoe right in the tailpipe.

You can't think twice. The moment you start, you can't stop and try to fix it if you mess up. Wear a blindfold. You have to feel the fiberglass. Try mixing the resin with your fingers to test if there's enough hardener. Do it. Post pics.

Does it work? I need to know. I might try washing my laptop to get all the crumbs out from between the keys.

I googled it and found these. They've got 1/0, 2, and 8 gauge outputs, and for $3 a piece it's probably worth buying one or two to try. Worst case scenario is they suck and you wasted $3.

It's a dual-4. A few amps I know will do 600 rms @ 2 ohms are: Sundown SAZ-1000D Hifonics BXi1210D Kenwood KAC-9103D AQ 1200D There's a ton more out there. I just tried to find a few that will do at/above 600 watts for under $250. That SAZ-1000D is $275, but you may be able to find a used on on here or a SAE-1000D for cheaper. Also, the AudioQue 1200D is out of stock on their site, but you might be able to find another one somewhere else in the meantime.

If it's the SDC2.512-D4 listed on their site, then it's a dual-4. Get an amp that does 600w rms at 2 ohms. Wire the coils like this:

Lol. I'm sorry but I actually laughed out loud at this. Also, it seems like you'll have plenty of time to work on your system.

That's a fucking basshead. Moving to a new state and already lining up the shop where he'll get his goodies.

Get a funky pup. Free air it on a T15K. And when you're done, punch God in the mouth and demand his lunch money. 'Cause you're the best, and you know it.

Touche. Good point my man. +1 internets.

I don't think you can read. My revised version should point out the obviously racist parts of the above quote. Unless you grew up in a world where black people and words that resembled "nigger" in the same context were not considered racist, I think you know exactly why you were called out for it. And if you did grow up in that world, welcome to reality. Life's a bitch. Get used to it.

Pre-fab boxes? JL subs? 8-gauge wiring kits? 10's punchier than 12's?

I have two points to bring up. Each one is worth one penny. I'll let you do that math. 1) Both of you need to shut the fuck up. Yes, "naggra" could EASILY be misconstrued as being a racist term, seeing as THIS is what comes up when you Google it. Read the first link. And the second. It's offensive and you knew that. Also, this woman is fucking stupid. If your life's goal is to become the world's fattest/heaviest woman, you've got something wrong. There is NOTHING good that could come out of this. She will die someday of a horrible illness related to her extreme weight, and that's a fact. Either that or she will fall off her scooter and roll on her back and be unable to get up 'cause nobody can lift her fat ass. 2) Her child is gonna have a hell of a tough time growing up. Mom's gonna die before she hits her teens. Also, if you didn't read it, the woman plans on becoming the heaviest woman to become a mom (give birth), meaning she plans on being knocked up soon and having a kid. I dunno how you people don't see it, but that unborn baby's gonna be fucked up. A woman that heavy giving birth to a child scares the hell out of me. I don't see how it's at all safe for her to have a child at that weight. I'd be uncomfortable with someone HALF her weight giving birth. There's such an enormous risk for complications that it astounds me that someone can be so selfish as to risk the health and well-being of their unborn baby like that. I know this will piss some people off, but I hope somebody reads this and realizes that it's at least true.

Are you plugging stuff in while your system/car is turned on?

This is why the world hates us. Half the world is starving and we're over here paying $15 a month to subscribe to some fat chick eating herself to death. I hope she dies when she hits 900 pounds. Nobody should try to "earn" that title by setting a record. It's just disgusting.

Post some pics of the. There's got to be someone on here who has seen them before and knows something about them.

Cone Area of a Subwoofer 101 ROUND SUBS π x R x R Since the surround of the sub takes up 1" on both sides, we subtract 2" from the diameter, leaving us with 16". The radius is half of that, so we have: ≈3.14 x 8 x 8 ≈201.06 So the approximate cone area of the sub is 201 square inches. We multiply this times 3 for the 3 subs and we get: 3 x 201 603 So all 3 SX18's haev a TOTAL combined area of 603 square inches. SQUARE SUBS S x S Once again, the surround takes up an inch on each side. A 15" side is now 13" long. 13 x 13 169 One 15" L7 has 169 square inches of cone area. Multiply that by 4: 169 x 4 676 So the 4 L7's have more cone area than the SX18's. BUT I DON'T CARE ABOUT MATHS! I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MAH SUBZ!!! ONE QUESTION FIRST!!! From what I can see, nobody else asked: What voice coils do these have? Kickers are either DVC 2 or 4, and the SX18's are the same. Here's the options: L7's are Dual-2's and SX 18's are Dual-2's = Use the L7's L7's are Dual-2's and SX 18's are Dual-4's = Use the L7's L7's are Dual-4's and SX 18's are Dual-2's = Use the SX18's L7's are Dual-4's and SX 18's are Dual-4's = Use the L7's And, before somebody else posts it, here it is:

2 female to 1 male RCA Y-splitter: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLA-1M2F More expensive, but a step up in performance: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS1M2F The best Knu has to offer: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KRY-1M2F You can probably find them elsewhere for cheaper, but Knu is very popular for it's high-quality products. You'll have to get one splitter for each pair of RCA's.

Should sound good porting through the deck. Unless your seats fold down it's almost always better to fire the subs toward the trunk. Probably best with a big 'ole single chamber with a slot port down the center.