3gAccord

Vodka and Mountain Dew is the new shit. Only heard the songs, I don't drink yet...

Well... I got around to getting the max dimensions for my back. 33x15x24. Max net is 6.6 cu.ft., which would be perfect for a nice bandpass... Hmmm... Research time.

I would love a CRX, as well! lol. It only cost me $220 and I got a good motor and tranny to put in it. I want to make an original CRX-type box with about 100-120 Sq In. of port area. It's gonna be violent for 12's when I'm done.

I haven't been around for a while, cuz I got a new car. It's an 87 Honda Accord HB. My sedan is in rough shape, and I really wanted a hatch since I first seen it. Here are some pics. It's pretty stock in a couple pics, but I'm not done with it, yet. Look at all the ugly emmissions!! ek. This motor threw a belt and it's an interference motor, and there's an auto tranny connected to it... EK! I'm also taking most the wiring out of the engine bay. The down-pipe gave me a bloody finger, so I had to give one back! Here it is without a motor! This is the "Before" This is after 3 hours with some Super Clean. And this is where I am right now. As soon as I get it running, I'll work on the audio. Gonna put my whole setup in it with a bonus RF200.2 for my Mids/Highs. It's gonna be increadibly loud for 2 "POS" 12's.

You gotta have one in Oregon, but a lot of people have them on the dash. I seen one that looked like it was scraped on the ground for a mile then put into the dash. All silver and no reflect. lol

It's hard to get a decent box to fit without going through the rear seat... At least in my car, lol... I had my setup running forward for a while, then I thought maybe I should turn it around. Helluva lot more bass, but I'm already used to it and it's not low enough, so I think it's time for a semi-wall. They sell ports for the rear deck like bandpass ports, but it's not gonna be near as loud as the blazer. St. Idels, he's got a Lancer.

I just got a Street Wires 1/0 kit (no RCA's or speaker wire, which is good, cuz people like to choose their own RCA's) and I thought it was cheap at $60 (shop sells it for $100), but after seeing this crap, I may have stumbled on some good wire! The kit was freakin' heavy! Like 15-20 pounds for that kit.

I use Original Titebond on my boxes. TB2 is better?

Lol... Funny thing is, I calculated all my cuts for my box real quick, and when I did my side boards, I must have had something else going through my head, cuz I wrote down 2 33.5" x 14" side boards when I needed 2 20" x 14" boards. Good thing I bought 2 sheets. :01nocomment8so: I should have braced my box, but I thought 20" wasn't that long of a stretch. Seems to be doing good. Something I did to it today that I should have done when I was building it, was corner 45's and I also built a 45* port divider and I noticed a HUGE increase from that hour worth of work.

Holy crap, BB! I didn't even think of that... It's genious! Like squishy tape? I don't know where I would get any.

I heard you want to be tuned 10 hz below RF for the best number. How did you figure your RF?

I tried the glue and clamp method and it lasted about 2 days of hard use. Only 1000watts RMS, too.

The reason I used a lot of screws for the front port is to get a little better seal so I didn't have to use a lot of silicone and have to silicone it every time I change ports, but even that wasn't enough and I had to silicone a lot more than I wanted to.

On every site previous, there has been a whole post of usefull information involving subwoofer enclosures. I couldn't find one here anywhere, and it looks like there are some people who could use some advice. Here's my biggest tip: Go easy on the screws and let the wood glue do it's job. I don't approve of staples or nail guns, cuz you still need a little support, but when you put the screws within 2" of each-other (I like at least 3-4" spaced) and the same amount at end of the joint, you are more likely to split the wood and weaken the joint tremendously. Now, this isn't the best box in the world, but I can explain with a picture of mine. (If it looks a little different from most audio shop boxes, it's because I double-baffled it.) 3-4" between screws and no closer than 3" to the end of the joint. If this is a needed post, it would be cool for the professionals to hand out some needed tips for the apprentice box builder. If it's not needed or in the wrong subforum, then I won't be sad to see it die.

I seen that on termpro last night, acually. The CRX box will always be sub up port back IMO, but I guess for SPL competitions, you want it sub forward port back.