3gAccord

Vodka and Mountain Dew is the new shit. Only heard the songs, I don't drink yet...

Well... I got around to getting the max dimensions for my back. 33x15x24. Max net is 6.6 cu.ft., which would be perfect for a nice bandpass... Hmmm... Research time.

I would love a CRX, as well! lol. It only cost me $220 and I got a good motor and tranny to put in it. I want to make an original CRX-type box with about 100-120 Sq In. of port area. It's gonna be violent for 12's when I'm done.

I haven't been around for a while, cuz I got a new car. It's an 87 Honda Accord HB. My sedan is in rough shape, and I really wanted a hatch since I first seen it. Here are some pics. It's pretty stock in a couple pics, but I'm not done with it, yet. Look at all the ugly emmissions!! ek. This motor threw a belt and it's an interference motor, and there's an auto tranny connected to it... EK! I'm also taking most the wiring out of the engine bay. The down-pipe gave me a bloody finger, so I had to give one back! Here it is without a motor! This is the "Before" This is after 3 hours with some Super Clean. And this is where I am right now. As soon as I get it running, I'll work on the audio. Gonna put my whole setup in it with a bonus RF200.2 for my Mids/Highs. It's gonna be increadibly loud for 2 "POS" 12's.

You gotta have one in Oregon, but a lot of people have them on the dash. I seen one that looked like it was scraped on the ground for a mile then put into the dash. All silver and no reflect. lol

It's hard to get a decent box to fit without going through the rear seat... At least in my car, lol... I had my setup running forward for a while, then I thought maybe I should turn it around. Helluva lot more bass, but I'm already used to it and it's not low enough, so I think it's time for a semi-wall. They sell ports for the rear deck like bandpass ports, but it's not gonna be near as loud as the blazer. St. Idels, he's got a Lancer.

I just got a Street Wires 1/0 kit (no RCA's or speaker wire, which is good, cuz people like to choose their own RCA's) and I thought it was cheap at $60 (shop sells it for $100), but after seeing this crap, I may have stumbled on some good wire! The kit was freakin' heavy! Like 15-20 pounds for that kit.

I use Original Titebond on my boxes. TB2 is better?

Lol... Funny thing is, I calculated all my cuts for my box real quick, and when I did my side boards, I must have had something else going through my head, cuz I wrote down 2 33.5" x 14" side boards when I needed 2 20" x 14" boards. Good thing I bought 2 sheets. :01nocomment8so: I should have braced my box, but I thought 20" wasn't that long of a stretch. Seems to be doing good. Something I did to it today that I should have done when I was building it, was corner 45's and I also built a 45* port divider and I noticed a HUGE increase from that hour worth of work.

Holy crap, BB! I didn't even think of that... It's genious! Like squishy tape? I don't know where I would get any.

I heard you want to be tuned 10 hz below RF for the best number. How did you figure your RF?

I tried the glue and clamp method and it lasted about 2 days of hard use. Only 1000watts RMS, too.

The reason I used a lot of screws for the front port is to get a little better seal so I didn't have to use a lot of silicone and have to silicone it every time I change ports, but even that wasn't enough and I had to silicone a lot more than I wanted to.

On every site previous, there has been a whole post of usefull information involving subwoofer enclosures. I couldn't find one here anywhere, and it looks like there are some people who could use some advice. Here's my biggest tip: Go easy on the screws and let the wood glue do it's job. I don't approve of staples or nail guns, cuz you still need a little support, but when you put the screws within 2" of each-other (I like at least 3-4" spaced) and the same amount at end of the joint, you are more likely to split the wood and weaken the joint tremendously. Now, this isn't the best box in the world, but I can explain with a picture of mine. (If it looks a little different from most audio shop boxes, it's because I double-baffled it.) 3-4" between screws and no closer than 3" to the end of the joint. If this is a needed post, it would be cool for the professionals to hand out some needed tips for the apprentice box builder. If it's not needed or in the wrong subforum, then I won't be sad to see it die.

I seen that on termpro last night, acually. The CRX box will always be sub up port back IMO, but I guess for SPL competitions, you want it sub forward port back.

Are you in Medford or is that for reference? I took my Sidekick to Winchester 4 weeks ago and slid into the only tree in the middle of Banshee hill... Kinda made me upset, but the Sidekick did really well. Do you shop at Sport Audio, Pro audio, 541 Customs, or Diamond? I used to like Sport Audio, but since Art and Jose split, I can see how wack Art's work is. I prefer Car Tunes in GP.

That sounds loud!

On hatch-backs and SUV's, you want a CRX-type box(named after the Honda CRX, which does best this way), which is subs up and port back. It's got to do with quarter waves hitting your head at the same time. I suggest some research.

Listen to the song Stickem by B-legit and you will see what I mean... lol I tried to go along the lines of the first sentence.

You high? lol You can team with B-legit and make a new beat! "I'm a lona, a stona, with a BTL booma" Yea...

The video in my sig is Decaf's slowed "Gorilla Zoe - Dope Boy" They all hit nice.

I like this list! lol I haven't used Sketch-up, but I was using BBP 5 for the longest time, then I reset my computer and lost it... Meatloaf from ROE gave it to me and I haven't found a cheap replacement. Is there a download for BBP6, cuz 5 saved me about 30 minutes worth of cut dementions...

I heard about some bad things AFTER I bought them (awesome... lol), but they seem to be fine. I can tell it's got some suspension sag, but I can't bottom them out. They heat up pretty good after about 5 minutes of demoing, but that's to be expected with 3x the RMS wattage... The box is built really well and could probably take 2 1000watt rms subs, so I'll run these to the ground till I find some money and I'll probably study some popular underground subs for replacements. Btw, I appreciate any and all comments, so thanks everyone.

If I had a little more money than I have, I would run all the memphis I could! I've put about 4 sets of 4x6's in 4 Chevy's and they all came out incredible. They use external X-overs, which is kinda cool, but I don't think it's nessesary without components.

I'm reallllly digging the new memphis subs! They look loud as hell!!