STEvil

Keep it in the 1.5 until you can get a deal on a better sub.

cracked solder in the amp would do this.

4 10's... rank and loud. If you want to try and do something interesting you could remove the seats and fiberglass under them for additional box volume... and/or a port. Could do 12's with that lol Man now you've got me interested in doing something like this.. but I love my extended cab!!

One big port > tons of tiny wiener ports.

What about the level of the tone used? If its not equal with the audio used to find the distortion point of the HU then you're not doing a good job. Also you will need to run a sine sweep after setting the gain to test other frequencies to see if any of them clip..

baby chained? Daisy Chained.. and having them all in series sill not get you what you want. Parallel is what you want. Firstly: It is a bad idea to run subs with multiple impedance values because you will be feeding different amounts of power to them due to this. There are creative ways to do your wiring to get around this issue, but with 2 of one type and 3 of another, its not gonna happen. Secondly: Different coils means different T/S parameters. This means one sub may cause wave cancellation if it is in the same common chamber of another sub that is different. Even being in a different box does not guarantee sound waves will not interact with each other. You can go ahead and use them all together. It might sound like crap, or it might work. I would lean toward selling the two 10's that match and getting 1 or 2 more that match the first 3.

I vote the JL 12TW7's or whatever they were... 7" voice coil or something iirc.

Keep a salt shaker with you at all times.. not just to toss over your shoulder or sprinkle on the info you get from here and other peoples/sites, but to also toss at morons

I want an L7 with a W7 motor on it.. and a bit more surround for more excursion

Just realized I goofed up on my design a tad.. here's a better representation. You could add a passive radiator or two to either the front or rear chamber but really, passive radiators in conjunction with ports isnt the best option.

Not going to work. Interesting would be an 8th order bandpass dipole t-line... kinda like this:

read my first post hifonics10.

It only sounded good because it was in a trunk. You need to leave the spiders on or the cones just flop around.

Every single post in this thread is fail Passive radiators are a driver which is not powered. There may or may not be a voice coil which may or may not be shorted to create resistance of the passive driver to movement. You want a couple passive radiators usually equal or greater than equal to the displacement of your subwoofer to keep the passive radiator from over excursion which can cause damage to its spider. You can not simply throw together a box and add a passive radiator, that will often cause mechanical failure of the powered driver due to over excursion. Passive radiators are just another way of porting but mostly used in home theater setups only as there is more room to work with to keep away from creating pressure and phase issues. A passive radiator mounted inside a port mouth may have an interesting effect but i've never seen it done and never had the time to do it myself.. plus you would need a giant port.

what are the -'s for? Frame is ground.

Lows are dictated mostly by xmax/xmech and physical cone area. 18" solo x might not beat the 6x12's. Should be equal or better than 4x12's. though

tangband works awesome rofl.. got one out of my z-560's that died

Not bad. Had someone I know take about half his thumb off on a sanding wheel... brother had a finger peel mostly off when a grain shovel fell off the roof a silo (a big elevator silo) and he put his hand up when he heard a "whoosh" noise.. f'n lucky kid that it didnt hit him in the head.

Is this going in the civic? 6 12's in a 6th order bandpass.. just clamshell it and it should fit.

I like it black but I miss the forum front page being a bit more "compressed"... was easier to scroll it.

fixed

Clear roof sealant silicone works wonders.. I came across the stuff by accident when getting silicone to seal some industrial equipment (New Holland 9060 combine feeder throats) and damn, I need more now.. Stuff is extremely flexible after drying, almost like rubber. I'll see if I can get the exact manufacturer name and stuff from a tube at work tomorrow. I'm tempted to say this was the stuff. Gotta check for sure. Note that it takes a week to be cured http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%28454kfo...spx?SKU=1204445

If you wire the remote on your amp direct to the fuse box of your vehicle (a non-constant source in the box, not a constant) you should be fine to just attach them to the remote of the amp(s). Black is ground, red is power iirc.

Incorrect, they only reach their maximum stroke at high RPM, mostly due to internal stresses and heating of course. Wanna prove me wrong? Run a motor at 2,000RPM for ~200,000KM then rev it up to 4,000RPM+ and show me whats left of your rings. The cylinder wall will crack them due to a step that gets made from the ring causing wear.

Point autosound guy here so he can see all of us laughing at him Thats what you get for playing with crap products I guess though.