ChevyBoy95

there you go.

Because the sub you posted is a joke... Look at the magnet, and the cone is made from paper... So is the FI, but the FI is treated... I hate how instead of answering my question people try to change my mind for me... Size isn't everything, I am will to bet on the 300rms you plan on using the sub I posted will get lower and louder than the Fi, Why would you buy something that you never plan on powering properly. if you want to spend extra and not get the potential out of the sub be my guest, and about the paper cone, why does that matter from what I deducted from you post this isn't a patio system. Edit: So after reading you post history I see you are 12, I suppose you are also that pro box builder that was on here as well, either way it's gonna quite a few years worth of grandma's christmas checks before you get one sub, so post back then Dude, please don't be a faggot. Honestly, why do people play the age card. It just makes you look like a little fuck. And just so you know, both my grandma's are fucking dead! Happy?! My parents came to me and asked me to build a home theater system for the movie room in the new house... So fuck off, and don't be a faggot who uses the age card... and fyi, basically everyones grandparents are dead (that are on this forum), thats life and you deal with it, you dont flame over the internet,

1. Product: ^^^ 2. Specs: 50rms x 4 @ 4ohms 100rms x 4 @ 2ohms 200rms x 2 @ 4ohms bridged 3. Description/Condition: In great condition, only has some screw marks on the mounting feet, 9.5/10. It works like day 1 so Mechanically 10/10 and has never seen less than 12.5v 4. Price: : 65 shipped OBO 5. Pictures:

fyi, DC parts should be in a week from tomorrow, and all caught up a week or 2 after.

Thor said parts in 14th, all caught up by a week or two after that.

http://fixmyspeaker.com/ProductDetails.php?pid=11

got busy today so i didnt get to call them. I sent an email but they never get responded to.

ill call today when they open and post here at what ETAs we are looking at.

holy fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck! (pardon my language) i feel like my lvl 5 18 is never going to come.

idk, ive been full prestige on everygame (the legitimate way). i do it because it gets boring when you have nothing to unlock. I still dont really understand why i do it, but i just keep prestiging. (14th lvl 50 in black ops, all the others full.)

bump

well then order a sa-15 or something, or dc level 3s, or aq sds. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SA%252d15.html http://www.audioque.com/SD-25-Series-Subwoofers_c_14.html http://dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html

i stand behind the kicker decision. Have used those same ones, and they can take abuse.

yes level 4s can take 1.5k daily, i did it for months.

things we need to know first. amp: budget:

1. Product: ^^^^ 2. Specs: for XBOX 360 3. Description/Condition: both in like new condition (they work 100%) 4. Price: : Halo Reach 20 plus ship Borderlands GOTY 15 plus ship 5. Pictures:

look for the 08 version, there usually around 600-700 i think, rather than the 2011 zx2500 which is around 1k. http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-ZX2500-1-08ZX2500-1-Mono-2500W-Car-Amplifier-Amp-/350415784444?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BP%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BIIUM%26otn%3D3%26pmod%3D360374395596%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1047854385239551010

ok, then dont worry about it, some DMMs read 1 ohm or something close like mine, it was just an idea.

a lot of people say kicker subs are junk, i personally disagree(i had experience with comps, cvts, cvrs, and L7s) if your happy with the sound of your subs/system, fuck what other people think. Kicker amps are solid and usually underrated. (2500 will do like 2700)

do like said above, touch the red lead to the black lead and see what ohm load it shows( example 1.1 ohms), then measure your subs (example 2.3 ohms), then subtract the first number from the second, 2.3-1.1 = 1.2 ohms. Or at least thats what i have to do with my cheapy to get the right reading.

x2 at full tilt you are probably pulling anywhere from 150-220 amps of current (if its say 2500rms on music). Stock alternators usually only product up to 105-110 amps at 1800rps or whatever they are rated to, and a lot less at idle. You really need either a second battery in the back (a decent sized battery like XS, Kinetik, C&D, Deka, etc.). IT TAKES POWER TO MAKE POWER!!!!!

big 3 only gives you a little more amperage from your alt, the bigger wire has less resistance therefore allowing current transfer easier. Also, the minuet amount of amperage gain from the big 3 wont be audible to anyone. The big 3 is also just a stepping stone in car audio, its the first thing you do to get prepared for extra batteries or an high output alternator. In your case, a second battery would probably solve your dimming issue but we would need to know what amp your currently using.

go with regular mouse traps and peanut butter. The rat/mouse poison kills them slowly but they cant get enough of the stuff (dont use if you have pets).

lol, mine are about 100 or so. There hot to the touch getting in the truck.

warm amp.... hmmm..... all i can think of is clipping bad.