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Everything posted by ChevyBoy95
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There is a rule of thumb you can use... Iv used this rule of thumb for a while and ran as much as 24kw. You will see in the real world you can get away with doing different, but as a starting point, it works. 100a of alternator for every 2000w, so you are good there, 300a of alt for 6000w. 100ah of battery for every 2000w, so you want to shoot for a good manufactured battery and about 300ah.
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How much power are you looking for? Look up CT Sounds. They typically have sales/discounts running and amps are proven to do rated power as well as being great value.
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I don't mean to pick, but what are you asking suggestions/feedback of? Electrical upgrades, box design (which it seems like youre already set on), running 2 12's on a 2500, etc.? Just not sure what you are asking.
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Taramps EQ Bass: PCB & Components
ChevyBoy95 replied to n2rovert's topic in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Yea, just got busy. Two kids, got married, etc. Life happened. But ive still got the truck and the 4 15's with the 12k's. Just doesnt see much road time. -
Taramps EQ Bass: PCB & Components
ChevyBoy95 replied to n2rovert's topic in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Why didnt you try enclosure changes instead of EQ's for the bass amp? The enclosure is by far the biggest component to dictating how the subwoofer will sound. -
You can wire the second battery in parallel to the existing battery. The main concern typically is the difference in battery technology (lead acid as OEM and AGM for aftermarket). In reality, there isnt anything special you need in between the stock battery and the new AGM. The only suggestion I would make is in a few years when the stock fails (due to age and use), to replace it with a like in kind battery to the AGM. Your battery wont get "too much charge". Alternators only output to what they are asked. If you arent blasting music, they will have a low output to supply the bare minimum the car is asking for (A/C, lights, radio, etc.) and when you crank the volume it will output more as it sees a larger "load" and output as much as it can up to 220a to do whatever it can to try to maintain good voltage.
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x2 on this. They need enough rpm's to start outputing. You can change the pulley size to help speed this up without changing the engine rpm. (if the alternator pulley is smaller it will spin faster at the same engine rpm). I ran in to this a bit with my chevy as in drive it would idle around 600 rpm.
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1. What type of input are you using? RCA's? Speaker level inputs? 2. If you aren't clipping the unit, do you know what VAC you are getting into the unit before turning its gain up? Say at max volume if you headunit only outputs 1VAC and the internal gain of the DM810 isnt high enough to hit the output rails and "clip". Just because there is no clip light being shown doesn't inherently mean a fault. 3. If you want real real help, you have to provide some better details than what is in the original post. Its hard to start when we don't even know where the starting line is. Headunit model Settings of the headunit model How the signal gets to the DM810 How you are measuring the output signal of DM810 "how to properly set my gains inside the processor" as in through software? etc. Need more info.
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Interested to hear the answer to these questions as well. Unfortunately I have to add that the same happened to a D680 I put in my daily that has only been in for about 4 months. Trying to work through the RMA process now even though their warranty specifically calls out they do not cover leaking. Came out and looked like the carpet in my car was wet and the top of the battery was wet all around the vents under the sticker.
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Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.
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So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.
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I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.
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You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them. Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.
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Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.
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I would NEVER advise mounting an amplifier to a box (something that vibrates). One of the biggest causes of failure for amplifiers is vibration.
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sundown zv5 12 warrenty
ChevyBoy95 replied to nathanb5533's topic in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
No, depends on too many factors to count. -
You can tell they tried hard to change up the format a bit, but really its the same damn show. Intro I thought was gratuitous, but still love watching the new top gear with a new title. yea, it's a formula that doesnt really need to charge. i feel like the show will get better/funnier/etc as time goes on as they get comfortable again in the new format.
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Subwoofer Level On head unit
ChevyBoy95 replied to Bj3ll0's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
You would in reality need a scope to be sure. But generally brands stick to a certain way. Alpines generally need sub level at max, kenwoods are at 0, not sure on pioneers though. Without knowing, I would leave it at zero since when you DD-1 the amp it will compensate with the gain to still give you the max unclipped ACV out of the amplifier.