MrSkippyJ

I will try that then. it's temporary, if I don't like it, I will do a 4" port. Not like I can't make the whole bigger. The whole box is getting rebuilt in the summer anyway. Thanks for all your help.

so you think a 3"port would be fine? That sure would be easier.

Double check your polarity, if you haven't already

How do you adjust the length to compensate for the flare?

Ok that will be a bit long, so a slot port it is. I am guessing a 4"*3" slot port would need to be the same length correct? well close to the same length anyway. Sorry, it's early and I remembered why I cannot do that right now. I know a 3" round port is really to small, but I can flare the ends and that size port will give me the length I need. Remember, this is a temporary thing until I can build a box for the DC. My main question with a 3" port is will it hurt the sub any doing it this way? EDIT: I AM AN IDIOT. I can put a bend in a 4" port and all will be good...so 4"@17.8" long it is... sorry, it is early for me.

Build link in my sig if you want to see the box. This is temporary till summer when I can rebuild box. Box was build for a 12" JL but the DC 12" is so much bigger than the JL, it won't fit. Box will be 1.335 cubes (minus port displacement, sub will be inverted). I want a tuning of around 35hz and I think a 4" (pvc port) that is 12.5" long will do the trick. Does that sound right? Also, if I use a heat gun and bowl to flare the ports a bit, how do you figure the flare into the port size equation. For example, how does a flare affect how you measure length or diameter of the port. Thanks.

Care to explain?

Yeah, with my U-verse (also hooked up HDMI to TV, then TV fiber to receiver, I get sound from TV and receiver. But when the XBOX sound cuts out, I get no sound through either. Sometimes, the sound works just fine, then other times nada. I wish I could do that, but with no HDMI and only one fiber input on my receiver, I can't.

I haven't found that, I looked for it but all I could find was stereo, 5.1 and something else. That was my first thought though, so maybe someone else knows.

Correct, no HDMI on receiver. There is fiber from XBOX and receiver has fiber in, but only one. The problem is, I am getting no sound from my HDMI (could be cable) so even if I bought a new receiver with HDMI connections, I still could have no sound.

It's not the TV, but it could be the HDMI input I am using on the TV. I will switch to the input I am using U-verse for, it works all the time. I have everything going into my TV with HDMI, only problem is my audio receiver doesn't have HDMI anything, so I am using the fiber optic output from TV to go to the receiver.

Just bought a new 360 slim, sometimes the sound cuts out. I have HDMI going to TV, then fiber optic from TV to receiver. I have my AT&T U-verse box hooked the same way, no sound problems there. I get no sound at all from XBOX when this happens, on TV or through receiver. Anyone have any ideas?

ah, makes sense. i am still trying to figure out this rise thing.

sounds incredible man. why did you measure your rise?

shielding is the biggest difference. more expensive cables have more shielding, but not always better. some of the ends are made more durable on some cables, so if you are un-connecting your cables a lot, that could be important. if you have zero interference problems and no worries about un-plugging your cables, unless you buy really shitty cables, you will never notice the difference.

except he said it hasn't always happened.

sounds like your alt is going bad, just get it tested and if it is bad, get a stock replacement.

This is why I said I was guessing, I don't know to much about ports. I didn't realize physical port was not a standard measurement. Now I know

The JL site does say otherwise. JL says physical is the measurement down the middle. Doesn't mean they are right though.

JL Audio port page. If I understand correctly, the physical port length is less important than the port length. I assume that port length is the same as effective port length.

connect it to the sub amp, that is where you want the voltage to be correct. there should be some sort of turn on wire for the voltage meter also, with the + and - That is not always true. you could have bad connections on your amp, bad wire, etc. that give you different voltages at different spots in the car.

who cares what your voltage is on your cigarette lighter. The voltage you are worried about it what your amps are seeing. Connect your voltage meter close to your amps.

you can skip the pollyfill, so that will save you a few $$$.

god damnit! so close to being a god

uhm, so just out of curiosity, which of us was the god?