Ndnkobra

Ah i see, so i'd have to pound it before and after to see a difference. And keeping a smaller power wire that connects to the amp would be fine too, correct? I wouldnt have to beef the wire up on that since its a 4ga wire, and the amp will draw a max of 120A of current, which is well within its range of capability.

aha, i knew it was too good for just beefing up wires. .4 to .8 sounds way more reasonable to me. And what factors would i have to consider in my current electrical system? The stock alt itself is rated at 100A, and its a stock battery. The overall system is 1200W, so i'm thinking a HO alt might not be necessary, but i could be wrong. People are saying just buy a bigger battery, but i feel like that wont solve the problem. It'll put out more current than my stock battery, but my alt still has to charge it longer than my stock battery. And my system has already killed a cell in one stock battery, i dont want to make that mistake again

I probably should, they arent that expensive. And really a 25% increase in voltage? Assuming that my cars starting voltage is 13.6V before the big 3 and 25% of that is about 3 volts. Thats actually a lot more than i was expecting

Hey guys, since i dont have a digital volt meter to actually show me what my voltage is before and after the big 3, could i just check DCV of my battery on a multimeter while the car is running before i add 0/1 wire, and after i'm done with the install, do the same thing again to check for an increase in voltage? And to prevent my own disappointment, how much voltage increase should i really expect? I'm assuming no more than 1/2 to 1 volt

Most underground subs that are labled in this forum WILL pound. List a budget that you have and cubic space that you're willing to give up and i'm sure someone can lead you in the write direction.

ah i see, i just read that if your running your system at maximum capability that the EQ should be off, which is what i'm going to do when the gains are set, so i'll make sure to keep it off

Ah i see, i know i should do it the proper way and oscope my HU. but could i play it safe and use the 75% volume rule on the HU and assume thats my "unclipped" volume, and then do what you did. Assuming is not a good idea, but most HU's probably dont clip till near full volume

Well i'm sure my teacher has an oscope at school, but how would go about oscoping the ipod? i'd put the 50hz tone on it, but what would i connect to what? I could use the oscope for everything, but to do that effectively i'd need to scope my HU, which i'm not prepared to do right now in my car because of what i have to do to get the HU out. So could i just scope the the ipod by itself?

So then it would be okay to turn up the ipod volume to max (not that i'd want to) without any signals getting clipped?

Hey guys, i was wondering about the ipod clippage after i set my gains on the amp to as much as it can get unclipped. The Ipod connects straight into the aux port in the car, and that has its own seperate volume. Will i have to worry about the amp signal getting clipped because of that ipod volume? And is there any way i can adjust that. Thanks! If numbers help, the deck will be set at 30/40, all equalizers and faders etc will be at 0, the output voltage will be enough to supply 1200 Watts of current to the subs. How do i factor the ipod volume into that?

WIN

I've been reading through these posts and i'm still unsure about what kind of setup do you actually want? thats the first thing. you were aiming for 8 12's before, so i guess SPL? Let one of these guys know how much cubic space you have to work with in your trunk, and they can point you in the right direction

Take a multimeter and check to see if there's any resistance in your coils, if it reads infinite, its blown

that tool could crimp kflex wire with ease, correct?

WOW, that hydraulic crimper is some diesel tool. certainly makes me want to get one of those

Hey guys, i was wondering what would be the better option of the two for my big 3. I know crimping the lugs would have the least resistance, but who knows how long it would take for the wire to come loose while i'm driving one day and burn down my car. Soldering seems more safe. I was wondering if anyone has actually crimped their lugs properly and it hasnt caused any problems for them since

FI BL is a good driver if you want loud

If you still get dimming/voltage drops, then you're going to have to look into investing in a larger battery and a HO alternator. Chances are you wont have to because your amp is under 1000w. Hopefully your stock electrical system can take a toll from that 750w amp, but you'll never know until you install it.

It NEVER hurts to install the big 3, as long as the installation is done proper. If your lights dont dim or your voltage doesnt drop then it shouldnt be a problem, but installing would be good if you ever plan on beefing up your system one day by adding another SX or something. And running your speaker at 750rms is just fine, you can wire your speaker down to 2 or 8 ohms. Here's the wiring diagram to help you out

It can "take" more than 1000w rms, but not for a continuous amount of time. they're good for short "burps" as they call it, but running that at 2000w for an extended period of time will shit all over the coils. That kicker amp will handle the sub just fine for daily. I'm assuming the amp is 750w @ 1 ohm, whats the impedance on the speaker?

it'd have to the superwad

to your - and + speaker outputs, where you would normally put the speaker wire for your subs. Unhook your subs and set your DMM to Alternating current or it will be marked as ACV on your dmm. What you'll want to do is get a 50hz tone test disc, put in your head unit, make sure your equalizers like bass, treble, etc are all 0. Make sure the bass booster on your amp is off. Turn your volume on your HU to about 3/4 and set your gain all the way down to its minimum, then play your 50 hz tone test, put it on repeat if you can, and set your voltage according to however many watts you are looking for. So an example would be: a 2000 watt amp, you only want 1200 watts for whatever reason, maybe thats the rms of your speaker. Always use the lower of the two if you're comparing one amp to one sub. If it were 2 subs of the same 1200 watt rms, you'd be okay to use the rms of your amp instead. But back to the point, if you want 1200 watts of power, you'd multiply your RMS by the final impedance load of your system, and take the square root of that, and that will give you the voltage you need to set your gain to. Ex. sqrt(1200W*1ohm) = 34.6V. You would then set your gain to 34.6V, or lower if you'd like to get a good clean signal. Remember to have your 50hz test tone playing, and your dmm is set to ACV. There's also a table stickied somewhere around these forums that gives you all the Watts to Voltage with different impedances if you dont want to do the math

whoops, was looking at the 4th pic. The battery terminals? they look nice, could find something less flashy and get the job done the same way.

You CAN just stick the leads onto the terminals, but you'd have to set the DMM in a safe spot where you can read it since you'll be using both hands. And be extremely careful when you do this, to avoid getting shocked. What i do is an extra step for safety is i get wire with alligator clips on them and i clip them onto my DMM leads, and then clip the other ends right onto the battery terminals, and then start the car. That way i'm only really going to be holding the DMM itself and not the leads. You'd be surprised on how much those clips actually help

What this guy said, if you have a system that draws a lot of power, yellow top for deep cycling