rusty959

Also, don't forget about the supporting mods you need to handle more power. This especially gets rough if your say, transmission isn't up to the task of all the extra weight and power.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/51266-1967-mustang-restoration-reserection-thread/

As stated before, how low are you going with these squats? I too always see people in the gym doing 300# plus but not getting anywhere close to even parallel, and it makes a big difference. For example, in high school I could do over 400# max but it was only a bit above parallel, but thats what we were told to do. Now that I do track in college we do "deep" squats where your butt is only about 6-8 inches off the ground and I usually do sets of 185+, max in the low/mid 200 range. Not sure exactly because we never max, kindof pointless. If it would help I can take some pics of the form, not sure if it would though.

Lol, I only wear about one pair of jeans total. Anyways yes, that does mean something is wrong with you. Too much money on clothes, not enough money on audioz.

I bowl on my school's team, don't know how to say if im competitive or not though. lol. I have no clue what my average is, but im guessing its in the 160+ range, depending on if I can actually play the game without getting bored and bowling through my legs and such. I throw one of 3 balls my grandpa stopped bowling with about 25 years ago... Shoes are whatever my dad had that he didn't use for like 10 years and I have a high game of low 200 or so.

First off I haven't read the entire thread and can't at the moment, but Ill throw my two cents in. Long story short id suggest the 1/16 revo. When it comes down to it it isn't that much smaller than the rustler but you could do a lot more with it. Keep in mind to get those extreme speeds out of the rustler you are going to have to drop a pretty penny on some lipo batteries. Anyways, 4wd and the extra clearance/suspension etc makes for a much more enjoyable experience to just bash around with IMO.

Good work. lol Anyways, im guessing he didn't get shocked because he not only discharged it before he attempted this, but the blade going through the layers will get rid of any remaining charge between the "plates".

not sure if this link will work or not:http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&biw=1920&bih=1007&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=mono+amp+sub+wiring+diagram&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq= If it didn't work, google images "mono sub amp wiring diagram" or something similar.

if it is like my experiences... if it is premium it will have more speakers than the standard, for example, tweets somewhere. If it is jbl It might have a factory amp. Best bet is to google it for specifics.

just making sure you know... based on the fact your last build was 4 subs on a 4 channel, and now 6 subs on 3 2 channels... (6 channels total) you do know you could have accomplished the same thing with one 1 channel amp powering all the subs which would potentially have been cheaper/higher power/smaller footprint instead of a single channel per sub? This might be a better way of saying what carroot said. What subs/amps did you get?

http://www.youtube.com/user/MissHannahMinx

back when I had my 2 18's wall I blew a sub and ran just one of them for a few weeks until I could get the recone monies. Sounded pretty bad and I had to turn it way down but it was better than nothing....

Good to know we are more convincing that 5 days of arguing with your friends.

yay, we are good at math here at SMD

But if you put $20 in you spend $20, and then you spend another $30 buying it you spend a total of $50. Then you get only $40 back.

Its all about how much power the wire can carry. For some reason off the top of my head I remember knu's ofc wire being rated for 300 amps and their cca rated for 250 amps? two runs of cca would be "rated" 500 amps. This would be say, depending on how you calculate it... 12*500*.7 or 4200 watts. But, variables are around. This is assuming all the power for the amps is coming from the front. ofc would be "rated" 5040 watts. So sure, there is a difference, but I doubt it would be noticeable especially since you better be running some extra batts in the back to be able to handle that power. Of course this is all based on some numbers that were floating around in my head... and I would check to see the difference in the rated capacity of the wire you are using, but cca should be fine if saving a few bucks in the area is that important to you.

Good work, Im glad to hear things are looking up. Good luck with the surgery and new position. Is the surgery lasic (sp?) or what?

yea that box shouldn't be too big as he said... l7's like big boxes. My first real sub was the same and I had it in a 5 cube sealed box for awhile before I built a ported. Although the fact that just one sub is bottoming out is a bit weird, I would expect them to bottom out on low notes with that much power, assuming it is good clean power as has been said before. Is the box a common chamber? post some pics.

Well im on break right now so doing as much mental activity as possible would be great. Put down what you have and maybe ill know what will form.

actually thats a kindle version so shipping technically would be pretty instant.

I hate chemistry with a passion and am glad Im done with it now, but maybe I can give a few words. So.... do you know how to take say potassium bromide and put show it like say, H20? the aqueous or precipitate and such just will be a notation after the symbols or whatever like (aq) or (s)

good stuff. Ive been rocking lecrae since real talk... back when I had a 15" l7 in the family mini van... lol.

Yea even if it isn't the belt causing your problems (doesn't really sound like it to me) it definitely needs replaced so you should go ahead and have it done before it causes even more problems. Edit: and as far as time... in my old probe it took me a full day or so to do the swap. (split up in my case but if I had done it strait) On the other hand, I can do it in about 2 hours on my talon working alone. Really just depends on the car.

well think about it.... Bump stops absorb some of the hit when you bottom out. Without them it will be much more harsh, which is what you are reporting.

Find out if your car is an interference engine or not. If it isn't, I wouldn't sweat doing it yourself too much as long as you feel competent with tools and take your time. If you screw up it won't mess up anything. On the other hand... If you have an interference engine as stated you have to be super careful. Either way be sure to turn the engine by hand many times to make sure the timing marks are right before trying to start it up.