kmalinich

nothing else matters when you have a shitty box ... its like buying $500 headphones and then plugging them into a record player. still gonna sound shitty.

Haha how many times i've said that to myself.. couldn't count.... but is the cable attached to the knob? and what amp is it? if it has the RJ45 connectors and wire like the RF amps do.. you'll be in luck.. just pick up some ethernet cable...

What kind of terminals let you have 5+ connections ? lol. or are they just standard top posts that accept ring terminals... oh and SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER those terminals! its the best way to do it! plus it's fun... you get to melt a shitload of solder all at once...

Pics of said box? and as far as sound.. yeah, lots of power and great subs are key..certainly... but a shitty box and its all down the drain. and 1800 RMS? what amp model? what's your electrical setup like.. is it set up to handle 1800 w?

Just to take a stab... I'd say make the Hi-Lo converter "gain" at like 75%.. same thing with the deck up front.. leave the EQ flat or off... then set the gains with a DMM. And I totally understand the sleeper look. You really want a sleeper look.. get a 3.5mm - RCA adapter.. use a Walkman cassette player as your head unit......lolol

wrong key i swear.. i meant to type 60/62 not 50.. either way their gain is jacked to the moon anyway... and I go to high school .. I'm talking 16 year olds. Mommy and Daddy pay to have a system put in... for example I know a kid with an 04 cavilier.. stock electrical... has an 4 gauge wiring kit.. Hifonics BXI2610... 2 kicker L7s .... prefab box... gain jacked to the moon, he said so himself... he won't let me work on it because (from his mouth) "you don't know what i'm talking about, my dad said that the gain is a volume knob for the subs, so you're wrong" i'm just waiting for this thing to catch fire.

ay, you said louder.. you didn't say for how long or what you're playing over it ... :D

A clip is a clip but I'm saying if you have correct gains.. unclipped at the amp... set from a test tone...you'll be alright on music.. I can hear the distortion easy.. and I hate it as well.... I hear lots of kid's systems.. and they're like ... up to 50\62 on a pioneer deck... bass at +6... loudness on.... and i just get out. can't stand it.

He's not gonna know that. Just do the big 3 in 1\0 gauge. or if you're really really strapped for cash, just upgrade the ground from frame - battery. What year, make, and model of car?

My motto has always been to stay away from mainstream brands, but I've been wrong before... But if you're gonna go MTX... please please please only get something higher-end from them... don't hop on here with some prefab kit with a crap amp...

I'd say do HDC3 18 alum coils and put the 5k to it lol

He's right. It's time consuming... but I had a a negative speaker wire touching the door once in my 96 monte carlo... passenger side... couldn't ever figure it out, so just logically went through everything until I got to the front mids... and sure enough. the wire that went into the terminal was stripped too much so it came out of the terminal and touched the door panel. I even heat-shrink all my female speaker terminals in clear plastic so this wouldn't happen.. but what do you know =/ Good luck bro!

yeah.. Fi BTLs 12s are a little over $400 fully loaded IIRC and they are comparable to the lvl4s...with a lvl5 coil... IMO. so $800 should cover it, maybe not shipping though.

Threads like this make me so sad. I wish I could go to the OP in person and make sure he doesn't break anything. But when stuff breaks... and he get's on here... We're all gonna be like, "we saw it coming." and as far as "hit harder" ... it's all in the box design. There's guys with an 8 on tiny power in an amazing box that sounds like a 15 off of 1500w.

At the source... it's not nearly as bad as clipped at the amp. You'll be fine. If your gains are set correctly.. regularly mastered music is totally fine. Only once in a while you come across a really badly mastered CD... like The Lonely Island's Incredibad, Metallica's Death Magnetic (there's a lot of debate over this album), or Nickelback's Dark Horse. Just a few I know. Or... if you let a guy on here by the name of deeemc in your car with his "special" CD....that'll hurt your system.

Tell us the model of the subwoofer. I mean, we at least know it's a Lanzar... so that tells you some right there... But really, we can't make recommendations until we know the exact model.

for one, stock HUs almost always have a horrible output curve... no flat response at all out of the speaker leads...plus your "bass" level is negative... the stock EQ in the HU doesn't ever have a smooth slope to change the frequency levels... add that to a line output converter... that degrades the quality of the already crappy signal even more... especially ones with adjustable levels. you understand that you may have set the gains correctly at one frequency but they could be totally jacked up at another? and that frequency could be clipping the shit out of the amp. i'd recommend a head unit with good 4v RCA preamp outputs, and a good set of RCAs. i've personally never had problems with Stinger and Knu RCAs... but that's just me. get a decent aftermarket HU, run good RCAs, set the gain again, call it a day. you'll notice a huge improvement over stock audio quality... and i assume you're running the bass down on your HU because at high volume it over powers your speakers in your car? A decent HU has a high pass filter on it... that does exactly the opposite of what a low pass filter does... it takes the bass below a certain freqency (usually 80Hz or 120Hz) out of the speaker's signal. Just my $.02

yeah, i mean.. if you could tell me what he's trying to get at...

hold 5 tubes work of baby orajel in your mouth for 10 minutes. should be set for a while

subs up, port back... best every time... (well 99% of the time - there's always that one vehicle that's odd, but yours won't be that one) as far as space between the rear gate and the box.. there has to be some room so the port isn't smashed up against the door, but you don't need to have a foot wide gap or anything. too close and the sound waves can't get out of the box. probably 3-5 inches at the closest. i'm surprised nobody else really has hopped on this thread to give you a hand...

that can be done plenty well in the box. you don't want woofers slidin around in your trunk while you're driving.. plus without a proper IB setup you would have almost 100% canellation from the backwave off of the woofer cone... so no beat! who wants that?

just got my package from him, wrapped in bubble wrap, in packing peanuts..sealed tight.. packed with paypal packing slip... perfect! expect the best from him

i flagged it for ya damn punkass idiots. really fire me up.

how the hell does that "make sure everythings ok"

thats how mine is. it's goes... 1 goes to the alt, 1 goes to the starter, and 1 goes to power distribution.