teamace24

The box and subs will be much more important than the amp in this case. The amp is fine as long as you match it with two subs that are not 1000rms each +. Find some subs that are efficient and have a 500-750rms each rating build a big ported box and this amp will be fine set right. Look in to the audiopipe 1500 new, mb quart 1500 new or used aq 1200 used also if they are cheaper and all will perform similarily. Have my Audiopipe for 3 years playing hard never gets hot and powers some strong subs just fine.

98 two door tahoe. Ive heard plenty if systems in them ranging from cheap to great 12's and 15's and every single on them you can hear the truck coming from blocks and clean sound inside. Subs up

The 1500 can push two perfectly the l7 15 does not need much to get it loud. The box will be much more important in this case just build it on the larger side of the specs if you are a little worried. Kickers need a LOT of box volume as it is anyways.

What power were you running each to them and is it a must to LPF them at 3.5. I have plenty of tweets just need more midrange.

Horn now works it was just a relay problem. Power window both rear not working so either switches or something else?

I know where i would like to HPF them at but what im asking is since these are midrange and not full range, would these also need to be LPF as well?

Will these sound good at high volume only being high passed?

Unhooking all of the switches did not work. My two rear power window switches and horn are not working. I tested both window motors and they both work. One window switch had not been working for a year and the other just stopped working last week along with the horn. My remote fob when i lock the truck does not make the horn sound neither like it should All fuses and relays properly checked with test lights and work. I might just buy two new back rear switches and see what happens. What controls the rear switches? If its not the actual switches then what can it be? Is the BCM involved some how?

Luckily you got some great sounding subs so building should be easy. Contact jl and ask them what they recommend for ported and sealed. Build both and stay with what you like. I've built two jlw7 12 in a ported box and they sounded fantastic in all music.

Those audiobahn will not like much true rms power like an audioque 1200 or well tuned audiopipe 1500d. I've had similar audiobahn subs like the natural sound series and they get pretty loud but don't sound outstanding so I advice you not to waste too much money on the amp like an audioque amp unless you will upgrade the subs. If you stay with the audiobahn. Go with the audiopipe 1500d. Set it up right and it will pound them no problem

What model are your speakers from parts express? I've installed those kappas and people have liked them. They can be bright on the tweeter and like most budget aftermarket stuff not intended for bass, but if set up right you can easily clean that and they get loud off little power, very efficient.

Sealed 1.75 for each 15? Whats the recommended optimal sealed?

What box specs are you going to run the subs to.

My drivers side front switch works as well as the front passenger side switch. Both the rears are the problem even though originally it was just my rear right side not working then i tested a motor on that bad side and it messed up everything some how. My truck wouldnt start, radio wouldnt start, but then that was fixed by just unhooking fuses and hooking them back up.

Ok im going to try to disconnect everything then wait and reconnect. But what about the rear passenger side switch was already not working even before the rear drivers side switch decided to also not work. Is it possible to put the front passenger switch on the rears and test it so i can rule out or in a bad rear switch?

updated this

Not sure if this is the right spot for this topic and if its not please lock. Have a 2002 Trailblazer with a rear passenger/right side door window not working. I ordered a passenger side/rear right window motor online and when i got it in the mail i started taking the right door panel off. I noticed i was sent a left rear window motor so i was pretty upset. However, i disconnected the window motor in this malfunctioning side and connected this new motor and started messing with the window lift up/down button. I kept clicking in and the new motor would not do anything. I switched to the left rear passenger window, took off panel, and also connected this motor and started clicking again and the new motor did move. So i tested the motor that i suspected of not working and indeed it did work by itself. So my problem is this, after i put the panels back on since i was not going to be installing this new motor since i actually got the wrong side, the window switch on both the rear left and right doors now BOTH do not work when before my left rear button did work and my right rear did not. I was advised that i should replace both window switches and if that does not work it might be my Body Control Module?

Anybody heard about the black ice? Black ice mono amps?

I can probably bandpass these with some hpf lpf caps but do i have to? Can i just low pass them?

Ive had those same infinity components and other speakers from them, and yeah they will be much better than stock and get loud off little power so very efficient. I do find that the tweeters from reference all they way to kappa series as well the tweeters are kind of harsh. Its a simple fix just dont point them to your or passengers heads. Point them towards the glass or just some where not facing you. Also mess with the eq settings if you have to. Personally i like my JBL Powers 6.5 components(made by infinity's maker as well) Since they are as loud if not louder with better midrange and better tweeters. Both infnity and jbl make stuff thats pretty tough to beat in their price ranges and eq-uing them makes them even better.

U.S has been doing similar things in many other countries for a very long time this was only brought up in the media since the u.s government ok'd this info to be released. It would be pretty dumb to have this leaked while they are still actual undercover soldiers in the NK.

The old PPI line was amazing then they went down the shitter but now im hearing they are back? I was looking at trying out their phantom class d 4 channel but its been sold out for a while so im now seeing that they also have a black ice line: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43834_Precision-Power-BK800.4.html Anybody got any info on the black ice if they do rated or whatever info thats out there. Rather get the class d phantom for its simple to use bandpass crossovers but im also looking at this one since its in stock.

Bump for some info

Looking for a pair of 3.5 inch speakers for a friends dash. Have to be pretty loud off headunit power, good condition. Looking to get a pair of kicker, pioneer, infinity along those lines.

So these wont distort at high volume passing the 3-5khz range that they are rated for?