nCOMP1337

i agree with much of the above, why want to run a lot of power and then cheap out on subs or any part of the build for that matter? if you are running 3000RMS rather than 3000 peak rating, your not gonna find any cheap equipment that will do that, unless it is all used and even then your luckily to find what your looking for, and even you plan on buying decent subs rated less and then overpowering because youve seen that others can do that, you definitely dont want to cheap out on anything, because you really need clean electrical, install etc. to overpower subs safely

no worries, another plus with coppercableman, even though its doesnt matter tons, is you can have your name or something custom printed on the wire every foot, lol mine says "Noob at Work" every foot, haha

for a few extra bucks you can get OFC welding cable from coppercableman on ebay and its free shipping and its known to be quality wire, when i bought it it was 3 dollars per foot but i have no experience with that wire

depending on setup, you can tune where you want to an extent, but many woofers can only play so low before it starts so called cooking the woofer, coil will get hot, and start to stink, or other problems may occur some woofers handle the lower notes better than others, i know kicker cvrs were said to have a Fs of like 27, yet they hated the low notes and under say 29Hz you could immediately smell coil i think 32/33 is recommended for daily musical, most setups give you a small bandwidth of notes above and below tuning where you can play with good feedback from the sub without risk of damaging the sub in any way i would thin its like trying to play low bass notes on mids and highs, they arent meant to paly notes that low, so same would go for woofers, they are only meant to play low to a certain degree, not to mention i think around 20-25 Hz humans cant hear it anyways, hence subsonic filtering, now the subs would still move air if they can play those frequencies, but wouldnt really do anything for you except maybe bragging rights a guy named sanitarium on here, had a blowthrough in which he got the tuning wrong on the end of his port and if i remember right it played down to 5 Hz and peaked at like 20+, cant remember exactly, though he did get it fixed i believe

3 extra baffles? im sure the program assumes the first baffle, and it appears you only have 2 in this design, so where are the other 2 extra baffles

too noob LOL

Besides the distribution of power, isnt it a rule of thumb that more cone area in the proper space, will be louder more often than not without taking into account mounting rings and such 1 - 15 = 176.625 2 - 15 = 353.25 3 - 15 = 529.875 1 - 18 = 254.34 2 - 18 = 508.68 now if both are in same type of box and proper space for each subwoofer, 2 15s should be noticeably louder than 1 18, but 3 15s will probably not be noticeably louder, because its barely more cone area, i know thats not the only thing to take into account, but it may give an idea more cone area on same power normally results in a louder system, of course due to space requirements that can change based on different types of boxes you decide to use, but if the entire setup was the same in every way and the only changing factor is the cone area, then id say go for more, but if 2 18s are cheaper and/or fit easier, go for that option as its not much different than 3 15s, but if your gonna go with 3 15s for now and upgrade to 3 later on, may as well get the more cone area now

DD6.5s for sale here 160 each with mounting rings http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110700-digital-designs-ddsw65s/

Now that sounds like fun. oh yes, its a lot of fun, i enjoy paying with numbers so even more fun, lol ive been using bassbox pro to try and help with the tuning of the sealed box, forevrbumpn was helping me figure out the proper tuning to have for sealed and the tline, currently i believe sealed peaks at 54hz and t-line is tuned to i believe 32-35, would have to go look to get exact

stop torrenting, they are after you

illuminati oh noes

weird, have you tried googling to see if others have run across this issue

i would guess its some sort of virus or something do you have an android type phone

well best of luck to you

besides looking nicer, i think it helps with the stability and strength of the baffle, with two layers on top of each other, there is less likelihood of baffle flex ive seen people double up on every piece of wood, not just baffle, but that is overkill id say unless your throwing a lot of power to it

no worries, if i helped at all, glad to have done so, lol since im a noob at this i always ask that others check and see if what i say helps, lol ive been reading for a long time, but dont have real world experience yet

well if it gets the job done, thats what matters right now t-lines is all i enjoy designing, mainly cause ive had no reason to trey and design anything else, but im trying to learn, its fun, working on getting a bandpass t-line design to work and fit in my car, lol waiting for forevrbumpn to chime in on the tline tutorial page and let me know if my sealed tuning works or not, lol

I like what you did with the beginning of the port, was that so it wouldnt fire directly into the port looks nice, i love t-lines cant wait to build my own

i agree, sadly didnt even notice that, lol definitely extra baffle, plus flush mount looks so much better, LOL

alright, see if this helps, and please double check it anyone that knows what they are doing, by adding 4 inches to the depth and width, and extending the port length, you get a net volume of 3.75 (suggest 3-5 for a ported box for BL) and tuning of ~30Hz

im assuming 16.5 tall for the port since its 18 tall with .75 mdf if the port is 22 inch long or even close to that and 3 inch wide that gives a tuning of 43.45 and a net volume of 2.54 if you were restricted on spaced and had to have the box like that, you would have to cut the port width in half to 1.5 to get a tuning of ~30Hz and net volume of 2.88 i suggest trying to get the proper volume for the sub over tuning, because the sub will have a range it can play, though its restricted based on type of box it be best if you could add either some width, depth, or both is there room for a larger box? just a thought: someone would have to chime in that knows more, but should the port opening (where the air first enters port) be a specific distance from the wall based on the width of the port, or does that matter?

yea, by guesstimating the port dimensions, i got a tuning of 31 but net volume of 2.36, waiting for his reply to see actual port dimensions though, but it doesnt seem large enough after displacement of everything either needs to be wider or deeper or bit of both i think could be wrong though, lol

what is the length of the two port walls? also what is the width of the port, looks to be 2-3 inches? and i believe you measure down the center for accurate port length when it bends

She was literally scrubbing my car down, and since the hatch doesn't open, i'm assuming her knee snagged the wire or something. soldering and lug rings in your future maybe? lol or at least some lug rings and heat shrink wrap im assuming it was just straight wire into the amp, since it could be yanked out, although even if just wire, if tis screwed down tight, i dont see it being yanked out unless its a massive trip or something my amp was installed onto the back of my seat and ive tripped on the wire and such, and it yanked the seat up along with the amp, but no wires ever came loose, let alone rip out, maybe get the terminals checked, maybe they are stripped a bit or something so dont keep tightly closed

it will be helpful if you can post the height, width and depth of that box and what thickness of wood you plan to use also you see in that design where the L port is made (you have 2 pieces of wood parallel to the back and the side of the box, well the port length i believe goes form the beginning of the port, left edge of the wood parallel to back wall, and then to the end of the port, which should be the edge of box, where the air would exit the enclosure now i am a super noob, however, regardless of it im right, it is still helpful to post dimensions of your box, as well as what tuning you are hoping to achieve ive only designed 1 box thats actually been built and although it seems he was happy, i dont have enough experience too give too much advice hence the disclaimer in my sig, lol