bassl0va

Be careful with this because if you set the gains while it was in the quiet state then you could be clipping it quite a bit when it jumps into the louder state. And x2 on the grounds

As Skittles said. Unless you can increase your budget then you will have a hard time getting an amp, wire, speakers and all the other stuff. But when you do get an amp you can't just plug speaker wires into the RCA sockets. That's what the converter that Skittles was talking about is for. You plug the speaker wires in one side and a set of RCAs into the other. I reckon just get some nice speakers for the time being and save for a sutable amp. Unless you can get more money now of course.

I'm running a Atomic 3k and 2 channel off a 20 year old head unit. So I'm sure you can hook up a 4 channel to your stock one. Especially since you say there is a amp in there already. Swap that out for somthing decent and it will sound many times better than the head unit amp. Especially with new speakers. Oh and use AC voltage first and put the probes across the speaker terminals. Then use AC current and play the same tone/clip of music (tones are better) and put it in series with the speaker (unhook one of the speaker wires, place one probe on each of the now open terminals) then multiply the numbers you got together. I bet it is going to be about 15 watts RMS.

If your seats don't fold then it won't fire into he cabin. And you will be severly restricting them.

I fixed a DUB 10" and built it a 2.4 cube (far to big lol. Gonna put two 10"s in it later) tuned to 19hz. It played mean low but didn't really use the power to the best of its abilities. So I shortened the ports (not sure of the tuning now, about 30hz maybe. Much louder and lots of room for more power. Although there is some port noise at <20hz you can't hear it over music/movie effects and this could be fixed with flares on the ports. Also as there is more headroom it can now be tuned to give better response at lower frequencies. Moral of the story, experiment.

Yep, separate mids and tweeters are known as components. I'd say don't go for 6x9s in the rear. Just a set of 6.5" coaxials will be just as good, probably better. You could stay under $150, although you won't get anything toooo special for that. If you are upgrading the speakers you should get a amp for them, the head unit will not put out enough power to drive them properly. Also, you would need to measure voltage and amperage across say a 4 ohm load (as that is most likely what your upgrade speakers will be) and then multiply the two numbers. You will probably find it is like 15 watts, better off getting a nice 4 channel.

Have you seen thorshammers (rob's) car? If not, find that on YouTube. You basically wall the trunk, like walling the cabin except the wall starts where the opening from behind the seats goes inti the trunk.

Sneak of with the 4 channel and buy him a monoblock. Then sell the 4 channel. Honestly, damn how can people think these strange things. Or send him here for a small grilling and then a education. That amp is not going to like those subs.

Why the heck did he buy that amp for those subs?

He already said he's getting a 2515

There are many different types, find the part number on one of the original ones, check out radioshack and other electronics stores for it. If they don't have it either try ebay etc. or use google and find equivalent models of whatever you have, then repeat the process.

I'm pretty sure that would be a bit to overboard for this build. 2 sets of nice components would do a good enough job to start off with.

Ahhhh. That makes sense. Who changed the meaning then? A company? Or just some random who ended up starting a revolution? lol.

I know that that is what they called sealed boxes. My 30 year old wharfedales are classified as infinite baffle. Even a large room can't be an infinite baffle. My question is that how can a box which is not too much bigger than the vas even be considered an infinite baffle? It is even less infinite than a room.

Of course you can't have a infinite wall with infinite air on each side, but how is a sealed considered a infinite baffle?they never have 10x the vas, well, depends on the sub, but not often.

Cool! you will probably be able to get some great subs and amp/s for 1500 then. What brand/model would you be interested in for subs/amps?

Depends what you have now, you might already have half the stuff you will need. But yeah, from scratch it could easily get over 1500 if everything was going to be new.

Not to make this sound like an ad but if you have a iPhone/iPod touch check out this awesome app called oscillator, variable level from 0db to -infinity, frequencies from whatever numbers you put in (say 10 to 20000 or only 30 to 35), sine, square and sawtooth waves aswell as white noise. And left to right fade. It's only a dollar too.

2 15"s is fine. As long as you can get about 4 cubes after displacement. I don't know about using SDCs, aren't they relitivly low power subs? Not saying a wall has to use super powerful subs, but generally they do.

I thought that you had to be like 4 times the vas to have IB but I can't remember at the moment.

Infact. The car would act as an enclosure so it wouldn't really be a IB, more of a leaky sealed. A car is too small to have a proper IB IMHO

I'm pretty sure the most common answer you will get is try it and see. Unless someone has done it the exact same way you will no one can really say. It would probably be better to use a sub that is designed more towards an IB setup.

You know those numbers labeled Qms Qts Qes etc. etc. Pretty much they will most likely be different between the two different coil options you listed. But that's probably beside the point at the moment. I'd go for the dual 2. Solely because you have more wiring choices.

You shouldn't need an alt. I've got a Atomic 3k and 80.2 running off a stock alt and semi upgraded battery. Soon to add a 50.4 to that as well. At the moment it doesn't drop below 12v with the engine running. But I really should get another batt. So I'm sure you will be fine. I'd add it on and keep the stock. Can't be anything bad about having that bit of extra power, make sure your alt can handle charging both though. But I'm sure it will be fine. \/ read what boon said in my sig. Lol

You will also get different T&S parameters with the different coils. Especially the Q values. I'd go for the dual 2, more options.