bassl0va

Lolz, they were had. What's gonna die next?

Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit. Well the 10 is an OLD MTX Terminator. Paper cone, cloth/foam surround. It's current condition is dented dustcap, surround torn in areas, rusty magnet...And so as for the 12s, 8in height before putting on the additional 3in and I have ~30in of width. All I dont have is depth and port size, any suggestions? And as for the home theater towers I have, I need to get new surrounds on the two 10s in them. And what effect does a dented dustcap have? I think you can fit it all in. How much volume do you have? For bass and with what you will be using it for, no worries. If you have a dented tweeter it would screw up the dispersion and probably a bunch of other stuff. And if you are doing extreme SPL kinda stuff the pressure in the box would probably destroy the dustcap pretty quick. There are videos where people burp their subs and the dustcaps invert from the pressure. With what you are doing it shouldn't matter though. Ways to fix dustcap: vacuum it out with a vacuum cleaner or put a stick up the pole vent and push it out from behind or cut the dustcap off and reshape/replace it.

This guy is random as, haha. And he talks sooo damn slow. I could get that video out in half the time. lol.

You can always cut the holes in the box bigger? Works every time! haha Yeah, I was just using it as an example. If you were making a home theater box for a SMD 18", you'd tune to ~15hz, maybe 12hz for some real lows. And people on here say 28hz is a low tuning, Tune the 10" as low as you can for home theater, the lower the better, that means you won't need to put a subsonic filter on it. 13"s is fine, I'm guessing that these subs are pretty standard, so they probably have a mounting depth of 6" or so, add 2" or so for the wood, 3" for space under the box and it should fit.

It shouldn't hurt it, both the channels are different amp circuits. You Never ever ever ever mix and match subs. This has been said many a time before, but I won't complain about having to say it again. Sell all three subs and get a really nice sub that has a ohm load that you can bridge the amp with. Or use only the 2 MTX's. If you use just the two MTX's, wire them up to 8 ohms (in series, positive on MTX one to amp, negative on MTX one to positive on MTX two, negative on MTX two to amp) and bridge the amp, each sub will be happy with the power it is getting (slightly less than rated, but you won't notice a difference) and you will be all set.

Sure it isn't a 15" PR? It probably is, hole cutout sizes are always weird. Um, of course it will work. How good it works though? Try it and tell us! I'd be interested to know. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work to good, apart from having a nice flat, solid thing to load off. BTW, down firing can be used for any speaker, you could do it with an AA SMD 18" if you wanted. It sure as heck won't be practical though, you'd have to have it a good 8"s off the ground for it to breathe and bolt it to the floor so it doesn't go walkabout. It would make one heck of a home theater sub though.

I think that the higher model stuff is still good because it is still the same. It's just the new stuff with the X on the end that is bad. As far as I know the MX, XXX and MT are still fine, because they haven't changed the design though they are exactly the same as they were years ago.

Pics of the said problem?

Linky link to the build because I'm lazy?

Yes, having the mid in ib will be fine, the only difference is the mid in a 3 way set doesn't play as low as the 2 way set mid. It also plays a bit higher probably. Just ib everything.

I wouldn't seal it, but you could make/buy a half cup to protect it from water.

What are those red things in that bag? Are they coils? If they are, then you can make a 12db per octave crossover, not just a 6db per octave one.

Since I'm going to start on a wall in a sedan pretty soon. I could pm you anything I learn while working on it. I'm doing 2 18"s too, so it should be pretty helpful. Or if I'm not too lazy to post a build log that isn't posted weeks after the system is built, you can look at that and see how it goes.

Not asking anything specific here, but what sub topic of car audio is it? Like, subs tech, amp tech, electrical? You don't have to answer if you don't want to. Good luck with it, if you have thought up something which is truly new, then good on you. There isn't much which is invented by independent people now, especially in the electronics world. Gah, why did I need to find this thread, now I'll wonder what it is. I'd love to know what it is, but I probably wouldn't be any help in developing it. Haha

It's actually 1/8, but whatever. That port will fail miserably. I wouldn't even bother trying it no matter how much spare money you could get. The straighter the port the better.

Lol, double illegal thread fail. You gonna get teh ban hamma. haha

Oh, I said measure the current, not the voltage, as the voltage should be fine unless you are drawing way too much current. So in this case it is the current which is good to know. But yeah, it's good that it has stopped doing that.

Lol, that is weird. If the CD goes in fine but turns the head unit off when it comes out, it may be faulty. As you say, it is doing the same thing. Maybe if you chuck the DMM on it and see how many amps it is pulling when you eject the CD while having the radio turned up to just before distortion.

Cool, you're welcome too. As you may have heard on here, caps don't do much in the way of storing power when you need as much as we use here. Caps only smooth the power if you have pretty much no, or very little, voltage drop. 10A is enough only for a head unit.

Theres a lot of difference.. such as a regular wet wet lead acid battery will leak if used on its side vs an AGM battery like XS Power, BatCap, or Kinetik which can all be installed anyway the room is available. A regular wet cell lead acid battery should not be used in a trunk of a car or interior of the vehicle ANYWHERE because they discharge Toxic Deadly gasses. A regular wet cell lead acid battery will bever have a high aH rating, or Discharge rating, nor could it ever have a instant 3000+ Short Circuit amp rating. Thought those 3 things are a PRETTY BIG DIFFERENCE for a battery that some claim to be the SAME. Deep cycle SLA's weren't exactly invented only for audio though. Personally I'd consider them standard batteries since if you go and replace the stock battery in your car they will give you a sealed battery, and if you asked they would give you a deep cycle one. It's not like they are made specifically for audio, so therefore they aren't really audio batteries. Also, I never said that there weren't physical differences. Also, you are allowed wet, non-sealed batts in the trunk. But they have to be in a sealed, fireproof and actively vented to the outside. This is what you have to do for said batteries in the trunk of a homemade electric car and to have it pass as road legal. Haha. I do agree I kinda screwed up the last post, I shouldn't have put the word power in that sentecne.

Who told you there was a difference? Batteries are batteries, we just use certain types on here that are more suited to our power needs. BTW, you might want to fix the title of this thread, not only is it kinda annoying being in caps with spaces, but I don't think that batteriers exist.

Haha, to power the speakers too of course. You just can't use an external amp, that's what I meant. You could go with the 20A one if you want, but that would still only be good for a head unit. So I guess just go with either the 10A or the 20A depending on how much you want to spend. The more current available the better to a certain extent.

Yep, that should be fine for a head unit only.