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Its time to refresh this build log! Been a busy summer with Slam, Heatwave, Photobucket took a sh*t, sold my other car, etc etc. Here's some pics from the last build log, since the PB pics arent visible anymore: Cant fit more tire in this car. Bass squat. But that flush tho Roll bar

Parts of this log will be copied over from where I currently have it on CACO I just wanted to share it here since I'm a new member started working on it in early December it's a slow project. Well for a long time I'd been trying to sell my Grand Prix and just couldn't seem to get rid of it. Guy offered to trade me a Jeep and I've always wanted a jeep so despite the Jeep having 250K miles I took him up on it. The interior is super clean and the outside is in good shape as well. Rockers are a little rusty but that's a Michigan Jeep thing.The plan for the Jeep is for it to be a winter beater/audio ride. Trying to keep the salt off of my Duramax. As far as the audio goes planning a B Pillar 4th for 4 18's on roughly 8k. From my rough measurements today I will have 46 cubes gross to work with. Progress will be kind of slow as I'm currently laid off. The goal is to be finished by whenever the first show in Michigan is. Will be primarily competing in IASCA and ISPLL. I always wanted a cool build log name even though it's lame.Builds that I'll be pulling some inspiration from include, Galen Winesette's Jeep, Chris Russ' Jeep, and Don's TDH Jeep.Tenative Equipment List:Electrical2 Mechman 320's Externally RegulatedFull Throttle Group 31 for under the hoodJY Lithium (Leaning towards 80 AH)Welding Cable 2/0 (Lots of it)ILL Customz Battery Terminals Clarion CZ702 already have (unless I find a great deal on an 80 PRS)4 Cascade Omega Neo 18's (building motors like Robs, PSI recones likely)Amp must be under 8K class restrictions (Flatline B2A, M1S, AB 750.1)Not sure on mids probably Crescendo PWX's or McLaren4 Channels (Really thinking PPI 900.4's)Other:Welder (Really want a lincoln Power Mig 210 with the Tig torch)300 or so feet of steel 1x2 tubingAir Bags of some sort I'm sureBHE 4th order design or something similarVolt Meters Out with the old: In with the new: Like I said it's clean: Going to be a shame to gut it from the B-Pillar back: Steel sets:

So it all began this past March when I decided to get a low-cost daily driver. I found a deal on a 5 speed manual non-turbo Chevy Sonic. Built in America, 15000 miles, 1 previous owner (repo'd), and sales price about $12000. Blue Book is 15k, so this was definitely a deal. Test pic

Hello! I just got my car back from the collision repair people after a deer ran into me. So now I remain right where I left off, with my stripped Matrix. I'm getting some ideas for 4th and 6th order enclosures I'd like to test out, but I need a skeleton to build off of. I don't know how to weld, but I'm pretty good with wood. If anyone has any pointers, let me know. It's pretty much like any other hatchback or sedan I assume. PS ignore the mess. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIcGZ1QW1UQmMyT1U https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbTZ4a0ZocFV4MFU https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbHMzSDJwbm5JZHM

I've seen quite a few write-ups on 4th order ratios and what not, but am struggling to find anything on 6th orders. what would a 1:1 compared to a 2:1, 3:1, etc. ratio 6th order sound like? Thanks!

I´ve built and tested over 50 boxes on this explorer since i bought it on 2010, i´ve had a lot of fun doing it, broke tons of records around here and also gave me the knowledge to design a lot of boxes for competitors and even world champions that also own the same awesome truck that i have, but, spending that amount of money, time and effort isn´t practical for me now, so, it´s time for me to build something loud ,low and fun in there without caring At ALL about numbers Car: 1998 4 doors 2 gen Ford Explorer, she´s called the Sexplorer btw lol Electrical: Mechman 270A alternator, XS Power D3100 on front, 4 northstar nsb 110ft on the back for the moment, 2 soundquest 0 GA cca runs for the moment, the plan is, to add 4-8 runs , a second alternator wich i already have at pipo sanchez home and 14v batteries in a few months. Amplifier (subs): Loudforce 10K wired at 1 ohm for the moment, 2 10ks at .5 ohms in a few months Amplifier (mids) : Soundigital 8K at 1 ohm Amplifier (highs) : 2 loudforce lfa-1504s Mids/highs: not sure yet, but tons of them Subwoofers: 8 loudforce 8515s 750 watts 3" VC a piece for the moment, 8 9015s 3200 watts in a few months Box: 4th order bandpass wall , 13 cubic feet sealed / 24 cubic feet ported, port area and tuning will be tested until i found what it works the best, mad props to Dave Leib (strongmandesigns on this forum) , coty eager, dylan kirby, scott bowman, zaim nayor, keith miller and jared gibson for all the inputs, without them, i wouldnt picked up my mind on what sizes i needed to use, i spent more than a week designing this box, wasnt easy at all, specially since i didn´t want to build a shell, wanted a box that i could slide in thru the hatch. THE GOAL!! Easy, want to be able to play a huge bandwith, and of course, play LOW as hell without loosing output on higher frequencies, since 4th order bandpasses tend to have 2 peaks, im trying to get a 23-27 hz peak and a 40-45 hz peak been the higher peak the strongest one, we´ll see!

Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time

This is my first wall and I'm wandering how to figure out how many sheets of wood I will need.

First time actually posting a build log but this year, I guess I will. I have done This will be the 3rd build in this Tahoe and I'm designing a C pillar wall with my wife (who actually has a ton of creative input.) I wish I could post some pictures!! First I am going to log a tear down of my initial build. This weekend I will start the tear down .

I aint new in here, but we don't really see such kinda installs here in India. I know walled setups in other countries are common but here in India it is relatively new. Some of you folks might have checked my earlier build log posted here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/151241-2-fi-sp4s-in-a-ford-in-india/ I was using 2 FI SP4 15"s in a ported enclosure in boot of a SUV and managed to do a hairtrick. A vid can be seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO7nID88yJQ&feature=player_embedded Was already bored of the setup and wanted to try something new.. Went through a thread on CACO regarding 4th orders and decided to try one of those for SP4's (Got impressed by vids posted by soundstreamsilverado), Took his suggestions regarding the enclosure and that's how it all started. Once again the ride in which the setup was done..

Ok so i need advice from the pro's for my build! I currently have 2 12's in a 6 Cube ported box, now in order to make more room for my aux batteries and 4 channel amp i will be adding i was wondering if this would be the one exception to front firing a subwoofer box. I was going to build a platform to set the box on which would leave no gap between the roof and the box, I was also going to seal the 2 inchs on each side off as well. So in this repect i could put my batteries and four channel underneath the sub box by letting the platfoor have a higher back the subs would be above the rear seats pointing forward would this result in a good positioning of the subs i currently have the subs facing up[ and ports up i would of liked to have subs up ports back but i would of been choking them off if i would of done so. Its ok if its a fucked idea i can handle it.

So I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer and I am wondering will it be possible to wall the c pillar only with 2 15s? ​Right now I am looking at having a battery bank of 2 d3400s and Kintik HC2400 (eww mismatched batteries I know how awful!). ​My amp is Soundigital 5k then my amp for my mids is Crescendo Symphony s1500.1f (yes a monoblock mid amp). ​The subs are Crescendo Contralto 15s. ​Trying to play it all out in my head if everything is gonna fit in my c pillar cargo area...

what would be a good 21 to go in my wall. not too worried about music just spl. what does everyone recommend and why?

Hey Guys, So, after a few years running various single 15's and relatively small enclosures I am pleased to announce it is finally time to build a wall and get loud. I've just started looking around lately and with all kinds of different idea's running through my head, I wanted to get some opinions or idea's on what I could do. I'm looking to build something that could get loud on music, but could post some okay numbers if I decided to compete (which probably wont be that often). I'm not on that tight of a budget, but would like to stick to the more budget side of things (though I fully expect to need an alternator, batteries, etc.). I also don't really want to go with more than 4 subs, at that point wiring just gets to be a pain sometimes. So, fire away with some ideas!

Im walling the Challenger!!! my maximum dimensions are 22"deep x 35"h x 50"w wanting to [email protected] of course super low 31-33 center port any ideas on sizes cut sheet any input will be appreciated!! thx in advance.

Doing my first wall build with 4 american bass xfl 15 (dual 2ohm) on 5k in my 05 dodge magnum. I'm looking for some experienced advice. I'm not after spl numbers but more a low playing system (ground pounder style I guess) and just have a few questions... When building a wall do you 'design' it same as you would a standard box? Are port rules the same? Pros and cons of flat ported vs forth order wall? And is there any advantages or disadvantages to wall placement? Ie. Directly behind seats or pushed back a bit in the cabin? I've built many boxes (my friend designs for me) all have been very successful but never done a wall so just wanted to get some info before we get into it. Any input would be much appreciated and helpful

So i have never personally ran Aero ports before. Most of the guys i know who run them are trunk class. Before i decide to port it just looking for any input on running these in a wall. All the walls i have heard personally are ported so i have no idea. Thanks.. Running 2 crossfire c7 18s on 2 c5 1700s flat wall. Currently got a good 10 cubes net after displacement and bracing.

I'll add some pictures and details as I compile them. For now there's an entertaining video log. Work in progress, it's getting better every day. I'm very open to suggestions.

I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today

hey guys, im looking for some of the best box designers you know of to design me a flat wall for 4 18s. thanks!

Pretty simple thing I need some suggestions on here... I have two Powerbass 3XL 15's in a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS 4 door. 9.6 cube net cube box, aero ported @35Hz, subs up, ports back. Have them on an old Zenon board Audiopipe 3k @.5ohm, seeing around 2800RMS total. It's pretty loud now, 148.x with fully charged AGM's, alt. can't keep up but that's a different topic lol. With the loudness however, has came the destruction of my rear hatch. Welds breaking apart, window separating, etc. I have already deadened the hatch and doors but the rattle in the rear of the vehicle is almost unbearable now, making the bass unenjoyable :/ What I would like to do is a C-pillar wall, would take care of the rear hatch making noise and give me much less roof area to flex/rattle. Would it be beneficial to wall just the two 15's in a c-pillar? I know most people tend to have a minimum cone area when walling, would walling just the two 15's decrease or increase output? If walling the two 15's is a no-no, what 4 subs would everyone recommend to wall on 3k RMS? If changing subs I would like to keep the cost down, I was thinking 4 HDS215's maybe.... Would like to keep the current subs I have though as I like them, so input is as always, greatly appreciated!

So the idea is to do a b-pillar wall but still leave the trunk of my suv usable. I am just wandering if it has been done before and if its loud. How much it might cost. Any personal experience here? Any tips or suggestions?

im building a wall for 4-15" HDC4s, 16.75ft^3 before sub displacment, tuned 37hz, 17in^2 per cube port area. each sub will be running of a BC3500d from crescendo. so far my box design... will simply sliding the port to the center and putting 2 subs on each side effect the tuning if i keep the port length and area the same? i like the look of center ports alot more then driver side ports......

im designing and very soon building a wall for 4-HDC4 15s and would like to learn about putting 45s in all the corners to "improve airflow". now i do plan to coat the entire inside with resin and sand to either 3000 or 4000 grit for smooth as glass finish for those extra few db. but wanted to see if adding the 45 will improve the db at all, or lower port noise or anything. i have a 3D render on google sketchup of the wall and i can upload pics if requested. about the wall: -4 HDC4.0 15s -2 Q1-4500D.1 amps -16.75ft^3 net volume before woofer displacment -270in^2 port area 20" deep for 36hz tuning. -All walls will be 2x4s with mdf inside and some internal bracing -walled from the B-piller back in a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.7L v8 plain with no 45s render with the 45s

Just bought the Suburban about 2 weeks ago. All the bag work was done when i got it. Its on 24s and the compressor for the bags is belt driven. Its already a head turner seeing something this big going down the road with front all the way up and the back down lol but now its time for the audio. Im doing 6 Sundown X 15s in a 4th order back at the c pillar Im gonna run 3 of the new Sundown SCV amps(not sure which ones yet) but gonna use some cheapos till there out and i have the cash. I had a big build in my car and sold most of everything so now i also gotta slowly buy some electrical back. I just have 2 xs D3100 for now and stock alt I already have the subs. Pics of the Suburban: At Sundown Headquarters Picking up subs from dealer