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Hey, all! This is my baby. It's a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero that I drove in high school; I recently bought it back from my folks for a couple grand, and its whole purpose is to be destroyed with bass. She's in decent shape for 140k miles. A few years ago, I had a c-pillar wall in this thing with 2 Fi BTL N2 18s on a n AQ3500.1 at .7. It did 152s with garbage electrical, and was super fun. I've always dreamed of walling this thing at the b pillar, so here we go. All I saw here was potential. Time to rip all this shit out. The process has begun. Carpet cut, headliner removed, and roof braces foamed. There's quite a decent amount of space in this bitch. Maaaany more pics to come. Just gotta get them on Imgur. Stay tuned!

Its time to refresh this build log! Been a busy summer with Slam, Heatwave, Photobucket took a sh*t, sold my other car, etc etc. Here's some pics from the last build log, since the PB pics arent visible anymore: Cant fit more tire in this car. Bass squat. But that flush tho Roll bar

I've seen quite a few write-ups on 4th order ratios and what not, but am struggling to find anything on 6th orders. what would a 1:1 compared to a 2:1, 3:1, etc. ratio 6th order sound like? Thanks!

So I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer and I am wondering will it be possible to wall the c pillar only with 2 15s? ​Right now I am looking at having a battery bank of 2 d3400s and Kintik HC2400 (eww mismatched batteries I know how awful!). ​My amp is Soundigital 5k then my amp for my mids is Crescendo Symphony s1500.1f (yes a monoblock mid amp). ​The subs are Crescendo Contralto 15s. ​Trying to play it all out in my head if everything is gonna fit in my c pillar cargo area...

Just bought the Suburban about 2 weeks ago. All the bag work was done when i got it. Its on 24s and the compressor for the bags is belt driven. Its already a head turner seeing something this big going down the road with front all the way up and the back down lol but now its time for the audio. Im doing 6 Sundown X 15s in a 4th order back at the c pillar Im gonna run 3 of the new Sundown SCV amps(not sure which ones yet) but gonna use some cheapos till there out and i have the cash. I had a big build in my car and sold most of everything so now i also gotta slowly buy some electrical back. I just have 2 xs D3100 for now and stock alt I already have the subs. Pics of the Suburban: At Sundown Headquarters Picking up subs from dealer

So here is the idea. We got $2500 to spend this includes buying the car. Its kind of a challenge to our selves. Everything had to be purchased retail or used. No stuff at dealer cost. car must do 55's at between 29 to 33hz NOT a Burp setup. I will break it down to each item in a list as we get them and what we paid for each item for the build. Here is the list (1) The Car........................... After searching for about a month we came across the deal of a life time. a 1989 Honda CRX for $275 bucks the thing runs like a top... looks not so much. but it will do. (2) The sub amps.................Got 1 of four Shark 2500's for $60 used. still need 3 more. (3) The subs.........................Picked up 2 Eminent audio 1k 15's with burnt leads for $150 Repair for the leads is about $25 (4) The interior speakers...... (5) The Interior amp/amps....Execution Audio 60.4 $99 retail (6) Wood..............................4 Sheets of 12 ply birch @ $32 a sheet = $128 (7) Batterys.......................... ( Charging........................Singer 370 alt $549 (9) Wire................................ (10) Head Unit...................... (11) misc.............................. This will Be a wall type build have not decided if going to do a flat ported wall or a fourth order yet. leaning more two the fourth as of right now. So comment away

anyone ever built a wall behind the rear seat of a 96-99 4 door tahoe . Trying to figure if its possible to to do a proper wall in the rear with either 4,6, or 8 15s if any one knows if this is possible please chime in I'm pretty certain that a 4 sub wall can be achieved behind the rear seat but not sure about six or eight . Subs of choice are soundqubed hds315

hi guys, my name is christian and i am from germany. my english isn´t very good, but i´ve heard this forum here is the biggest car-audio forum of the world and i hope you can help me. sorry for all grammar und writing- mistakes . i´ve used the searching option of this forum here, but there isn´t that what i am searching for. to my question: all of you who installed a wall know the phenomenon, that there isn´t any bass-feeling at deep music when the doors are closed. there is just a bit of wind in the car, but no feeling on the body. but when doors are open you can´t breathe and you are thinking, that you must die, if you know what i mean. i´ve heard a lot of wall buildings in germany and simply three or four car´s here can play deep music with doors closed and there is simply the same feeling inside like doors open. i talked with the designers of this installations, but they wouldn´t talk about it because they spent a lot of time to their enclosures and so they wouldn´t tell other people about. my plan for the future is to build an enclosure with about 10-12 12´s, probably ETON-sub´s and i wouldn´t must open the door´s that i can feel the full power of the sub´s. I will sit in my car, doors and windows closed and will feel the "pain" from high and low frequencies to my body and perhaps to someone who is geting a demo from me. what kind of enclosure is the best for such a plan? 4th order wall, enclousure like gary kilians car or.... or do you think a wall is here not the best thing that i can do, because the deep frequencies can´t spread good in the car with a wall? i would be glad about an answer. thank you for reading this text in this bad english

Hey guys I have finally caved and made the decision to start design the box for the wall in the vic. I have taken some basic dimensions and come up with a rough mock-up torres design. For the woofer and bracing displacement I just threw numbers in because I wasnt too sure on the exact ones yet. Let me know if there is anything I did wrong so I can make the changes. Thanks. Opinions always welcome.

I'm new to this forum. I've done a few builds but never a Walled off build. I have a few questions really 1--when building a sub wall, do you simply build the skeleton of it and allow the weight of everything anchor it down or do you anchor it in place by other means? 2--Once the skeleton of the wall is complete, how are the "trim" pieces placed for a tight, flush fit? Same glue used in building enclosures or other means? 3--I already have 5% window tint on rear windows on top of the factory "privacy" glass, but want to "black out" the windows so NO light is coming in. Does anyone know what is good to use. I will NOT use paint of any kind as it will just flake off eventually. I have heard of others using black speaker carpet and/or black foam, but I don't want any of the adhesive to be seen from the outside.

im building a wall for 4-15" HDC4s, 16.75ft^3 before sub displacment, tuned 37hz, 17in^2 per cube port area. each sub will be running of a BC3500d from crescendo. so far my box design... will simply sliding the port to the center and putting 2 subs on each side effect the tuning if i keep the port length and area the same? i like the look of center ports alot more then driver side ports......

First time actually posting a build log but this year, I guess I will. I have done This will be the 3rd build in this Tahoe and I'm designing a C pillar wall with my wife (who actually has a ton of creative input.) I wish I could post some pictures!! First I am going to log a tear down of my initial build. This weekend I will start the tear down .

Hello! I just got my car back from the collision repair people after a deer ran into me. So now I remain right where I left off, with my stripped Matrix. I'm getting some ideas for 4th and 6th order enclosures I'd like to test out, but I need a skeleton to build off of. I don't know how to weld, but I'm pretty good with wood. If anyone has any pointers, let me know. It's pretty much like any other hatchback or sedan I assume. PS ignore the mess. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIcGZ1QW1UQmMyT1U https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbTZ4a0ZocFV4MFU https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbHMzSDJwbm5JZHM

Was wondering if this peak in the middle was necessary in a wall like this. Have never done a port like this and might sound like a dumb question, but just wanted to know if it is needed or not.

Im walling the Challenger!!! my maximum dimensions are 22"deep x 35"h x 50"w wanting to [email protected] of course super low 31-33 center port any ideas on sizes cut sheet any input will be appreciated!! thx in advance.

C-Piller wall 4 zv3 15's on a NS1. Audison 4 Channel on 2 sets of hurtz 6.5's. Two 320 Alts on 6 XS D3100's. Tuned to 32hz 2 weeks build from start to finish.

So the idea is to do a b-pillar wall but still leave the trunk of my suv usable. I am just wandering if it has been done before and if its loud. How much it might cost. Any personal experience here? Any tips or suggestions?

Any tips? I will be doing 2 PSI PF2 18s walled in my 93 explorer, on 2 skar 1500s strapped. just curious what everyones input on box design would be. Still need it to be musical, but i do love my lows. So should I tune low, say 28? and does port area matter? I designed a wall at 32hz, 210 port area, 0 common wall. tuned to high, enough port area? will aero ports be any good? main goal is to do hair tricks and demos. Not really interested in chasing numbers. Never done a wall before, but have built a lot of boxs. Also, should i have the port in the middle of the box, to pass or drivers side? does it matter? any input is appreciated.

I'll add some pictures and details as I compile them. For now there's an entertaining video log. Work in progress, it's getting better every day. I'm very open to suggestions.

First off thanks to anyone who takes the time to read this and offer a helping hand, secondly I am looking for someone knowledgeable and is very good with enclosure designs and getting loud to come up with a 6th order wall design for 4 skar evl 15's in my santa fe. Ive tried a couple free programs but I haven't been any good at making it work. If someone wouldn't mind helping ill get the measurements together as soon as tomorrow. I also don't mind paying a few dollars for the help either. Thanks in advance!

hey guys, im looking for some of the best box designers you know of to design me a flat wall for 4 18s. thanks!

Redoing my Corolla for the new year. I normally do a ported box around 5 cubes that can go in and out of the trunk when needed but this time I decided to build in the car and to the car. as you can see in the pictures Im doing a trunk build and Im going to seal off the trunk from the cabin. it will take time to finish since I have a busy work schedule right now but I have to be complete by the 18th of Feb so I can attend Freezefest in TN. Any comments or suggestions are welcome understanding I won't be making big changes. its either going to work or its not. 1 18 inch fi SP4 18 1 B2 audio SLD5k 2/0 wiring xs 3400 under the hood northstar 220 in the trunk mechman H/O alt big 3 done with 2/0 kenwood HU until I get my new alpine. Im getting the UTE 62bt when I have the chance to hit up Best Buy.. stay tuned!!

Ok so i need advice from the pro's for my build! I currently have 2 12's in a 6 Cube ported box, now in order to make more room for my aux batteries and 4 channel amp i will be adding i was wondering if this would be the one exception to front firing a subwoofer box. I was going to build a platform to set the box on which would leave no gap between the roof and the box, I was also going to seal the 2 inchs on each side off as well. So in this repect i could put my batteries and four channel underneath the sub box by letting the platfoor have a higher back the subs would be above the rear seats pointing forward would this result in a good positioning of the subs i currently have the subs facing up[ and ports up i would of liked to have subs up ports back but i would of been choking them off if i would of done so. Its ok if its a fucked idea i can handle it.

So, some of yall know my port right now is center fired, so everything is symmetrical, left to right. Well, I want to knock out the baffles, and go with a drivers side port. Same exact port area and close to the same tuning, but a bit smaller on volume.... Current : 15.5-15.8 Cubes, 36-37hz, 234.5 sqin of port Idea : 14.5 cubes, 34/35 hz, 234.5 sqin of port driver side. Any input from the guys who know or have built and tried there own? I have always heard drivers side port is the way to go.

Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time