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Found 69 results

  1. I'm looking to start building a battery bank since I bought a crescendo bc5500 recently and won't be able to use it for a while. So far all I have done is the big 3 in my vehicle with the stock alt and added two extra batteries. Some walmart battery a friend gave me and an xs power xp750. They power a Skar rp-75.4 and an audiopipe apdl2001d "2krms". I have two crescendo symphony sc-650 6.5" component sets and two sundown x15 v.2's in a custom box tuned to 32 hz. The goal is to eventually have a c1100.4 power two 6.5"s, three tweets, and one 8" fiberglassed in both front doors with three x15s walled off on the bc5500. I want to replace the stock battery and have at least 4 batteries in the back. Just not sure of which batteries to get. I was hoping to not have to spend upwards of 400$ per battery. I'm still a car audio newb so I went to the xspower website and typed 7500 watts in the audio calculator and it told me one d7500 and three xp2500s would be sufficient. Thoughts?? I'll post some pics / more info soon
  2. Hello! I just got my car back from the collision repair people after a deer ran into me. So now I remain right where I left off, with my stripped Matrix. I'm getting some ideas for 4th and 6th order enclosures I'd like to test out, but I need a skeleton to build off of. I don't know how to weld, but I'm pretty good with wood. If anyone has any pointers, let me know. It's pretty much like any other hatchback or sedan I assume. PS ignore the mess. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIcGZ1QW1UQmMyT1U https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbTZ4a0ZocFV4MFU https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4nVZk8knWyIbHMzSDJwbm5JZHM
  3. Its time to refresh this build log! Been a busy summer with Slam, Heatwave, Photobucket took a sh*t, sold my other car, etc etc. Here's some pics from the last build log, since the PB pics arent visible anymore: Cant fit more tire in this car. Bass squat. But that flush tho Roll bar
  4. I've seen quite a few write-ups on 4th order ratios and what not, but am struggling to find anything on 6th orders. what would a 1:1 compared to a 2:1, 3:1, etc. ratio 6th order sound like? Thanks!
  5. Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time
  6. 1st wall

    This is my first wall and I'm wandering how to figure out how many sheets of wood I will need.
  7. First time actually posting a build log but this year, I guess I will. I have done This will be the 3rd build in this Tahoe and I'm designing a C pillar wall with my wife (who actually has a ton of creative input.) I wish I could post some pictures!! First I am going to log a tear down of my initial build. This weekend I will start the tear down .
  8. Parts of this log will be copied over from where I currently have it on CACO I just wanted to share it here since I'm a new member started working on it in early December it's a slow project. Well for a long time I'd been trying to sell my Grand Prix and just couldn't seem to get rid of it. Guy offered to trade me a Jeep and I've always wanted a jeep so despite the Jeep having 250K miles I took him up on it. The interior is super clean and the outside is in good shape as well. Rockers are a little rusty but that's a Michigan Jeep thing.The plan for the Jeep is for it to be a winter beater/audio ride. Trying to keep the salt off of my Duramax. As far as the audio goes planning a B Pillar 4th for 4 18's on roughly 8k. From my rough measurements today I will have 46 cubes gross to work with. Progress will be kind of slow as I'm currently laid off. The goal is to be finished by whenever the first show in Michigan is. Will be primarily competing in IASCA and ISPLL. I always wanted a cool build log name even though it's lame.Builds that I'll be pulling some inspiration from include, Galen Winesette's Jeep, Chris Russ' Jeep, and Don's TDH Jeep.Tenative Equipment List:Electrical2 Mechman 320's Externally RegulatedFull Throttle Group 31 for under the hoodJY Lithium (Leaning towards 80 AH)Welding Cable 2/0 (Lots of it)ILL Customz Battery Terminals Clarion CZ702 already have (unless I find a great deal on an 80 PRS)4 Cascade Omega Neo 18's (building motors like Robs, PSI recones likely)Amp must be under 8K class restrictions (Flatline B2A, M1S, AB 750.1)Not sure on mids probably Crescendo PWX's or McLaren4 Channels (Really thinking PPI 900.4's)Other:Welder (Really want a lincoln Power Mig 210 with the Tig torch)300 or so feet of steel 1x2 tubingAir Bags of some sort I'm sureBHE 4th order design or something similarVolt Meters Out with the old: In with the new: Like I said it's clean: Going to be a shame to gut it from the B-Pillar back: Steel sets:
  9. So it all began this past March when I decided to get a low-cost daily driver. I found a deal on a 5 speed manual non-turbo Chevy Sonic. Built in America, 15000 miles, 1 previous owner (repo'd), and sales price about $12000. Blue Book is 15k, so this was definitely a deal. Test pic
  10. Ok so i need advice from the pro's for my build! I currently have 2 12's in a 6 Cube ported box, now in order to make more room for my aux batteries and 4 channel amp i will be adding i was wondering if this would be the one exception to front firing a subwoofer box. I was going to build a platform to set the box on which would leave no gap between the roof and the box, I was also going to seal the 2 inchs on each side off as well. So in this repect i could put my batteries and four channel underneath the sub box by letting the platfoor have a higher back the subs would be above the rear seats pointing forward would this result in a good positioning of the subs i currently have the subs facing up[ and ports up i would of liked to have subs up ports back but i would of been choking them off if i would of done so. Its ok if its a fucked idea i can handle it.
  11. So I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer and I am wondering will it be possible to wall the c pillar only with 2 15s? ​Right now I am looking at having a battery bank of 2 d3400s and Kintik HC2400 (eww mismatched batteries I know how awful!). ​My amp is Soundigital 5k then my amp for my mids is Crescendo Symphony s1500.1f (yes a monoblock mid amp). ​The subs are Crescendo Contralto 15s. ​Trying to play it all out in my head if everything is gonna fit in my c pillar cargo area...
  12. walled civic 2 21s...

    what would be a good 21 to go in my wall. not too worried about music just spl. what does everyone recommend and why?
  13. Hey Guys, So, after a few years running various single 15's and relatively small enclosures I am pleased to announce it is finally time to build a wall and get loud. I've just started looking around lately and with all kinds of different idea's running through my head, I wanted to get some opinions or idea's on what I could do. I'm looking to build something that could get loud on music, but could post some okay numbers if I decided to compete (which probably wont be that often). I'm not on that tight of a budget, but would like to stick to the more budget side of things (though I fully expect to need an alternator, batteries, etc.). I also don't really want to go with more than 4 subs, at that point wiring just gets to be a pain sometimes. So, fire away with some ideas!
  14. Im walling the Challenger!!! my maximum dimensions are 22"deep x 35"h x 50"w wanting to [email protected] of course super low 31-33 center port any ideas on sizes cut sheet any input will be appreciated!! thx in advance.
  15. Doing my first wall build with 4 american bass xfl 15 (dual 2ohm) on 5k in my 05 dodge magnum. I'm looking for some experienced advice. I'm not after spl numbers but more a low playing system (ground pounder style I guess) and just have a few questions... When building a wall do you 'design' it same as you would a standard box? Are port rules the same? Pros and cons of flat ported vs forth order wall? And is there any advantages or disadvantages to wall placement? Ie. Directly behind seats or pushed back a bit in the cabin? I've built many boxes (my friend designs for me) all have been very successful but never done a wall so just wanted to get some info before we get into it. Any input would be much appreciated and helpful
  16. So i have never personally ran Aero ports before. Most of the guys i know who run them are trunk class. Before i decide to port it just looking for any input on running these in a wall. All the walls i have heard personally are ported so i have no idea. Thanks.. Running 2 crossfire c7 18s on 2 c5 1700s flat wall. Currently got a good 10 cubes net after displacement and bracing.
  17. Best box designers?

    hey guys, im looking for some of the best box designers you know of to design me a flat wall for 4 18s. thanks!
  18. Pretty simple thing I need some suggestions on here... I have two Powerbass 3XL 15's in a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS 4 door. 9.6 cube net cube box, aero ported @35Hz, subs up, ports back. Have them on an old Zenon board Audiopipe 3k @.5ohm, seeing around 2800RMS total. It's pretty loud now, 148.x with fully charged AGM's, alt. can't keep up but that's a different topic lol. With the loudness however, has came the destruction of my rear hatch. Welds breaking apart, window separating, etc. I have already deadened the hatch and doors but the rattle in the rear of the vehicle is almost unbearable now, making the bass unenjoyable :/ What I would like to do is a C-pillar wall, would take care of the rear hatch making noise and give me much less roof area to flex/rattle. Would it be beneficial to wall just the two 15's in a c-pillar? I know most people tend to have a minimum cone area when walling, would walling just the two 15's decrease or increase output? If walling the two 15's is a no-no, what 4 subs would everyone recommend to wall on 3k RMS? If changing subs I would like to keep the cost down, I was thinking 4 HDS215's maybe.... Would like to keep the current subs I have though as I like them, so input is as always, greatly appreciated!
  19. So the idea is to do a b-pillar wall but still leave the trunk of my suv usable. I am just wandering if it has been done before and if its loud. How much it might cost. Any personal experience here? Any tips or suggestions?
  20. wall port tuning help

    im building a wall for 4-15" HDC4s, 16.75ft^3 before sub displacment, tuned 37hz, 17in^2 per cube port area. each sub will be running of a BC3500d from crescendo. so far my box design... will simply sliding the port to the center and putting 2 subs on each side effect the tuning if i keep the port length and area the same? i like the look of center ports alot more then driver side ports......
  21. im designing and very soon building a wall for 4-HDC4 15s and would like to learn about putting 45s in all the corners to "improve airflow". now i do plan to coat the entire inside with resin and sand to either 3000 or 4000 grit for smooth as glass finish for those extra few db. but wanted to see if adding the 45 will improve the db at all, or lower port noise or anything. i have a 3D render on google sketchup of the wall and i can upload pics if requested. about the wall: -4 HDC4.0 15s -2 Q1-4500D.1 amps -16.75ft^3 net volume before woofer displacment -270in^2 port area 20" deep for 36hz tuning. -All walls will be 2x4s with mdf inside and some internal bracing -walled from the B-piller back in a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.7L v8 plain with no 45s render with the 45s
  22. This was last years build, don't have a build log for it so here it is. 1st build in it was a Sundown 15" in a 6th order.
  23. not anywhere close to being done. 1 sheet mdf just in case. prolly will need more birch though. gonna be lots more wood going into it still.
  24. C-Piller wall 4 zv3 15's on a NS1. Audison 4 Channel on 2 sets of hurtz 6.5's. Two 320 Alts on 6 XS D3100's. Tuned to 32hz 2 weeks build from start to finish.
  25. Summary: 08 Silverado, ext cab, 5.3L. Walled off with seats in comfortable positions (not straight up and down like some dedicated walls). This will be a daily driver still. I don't want a system that ONLY hits low end, I dont listen to purely boosted music, i want a system that can do well on a variety of music. Basically a system any passenger can throw on their phone on the aux and listen to what they want and sound good and loud. Goals for System: I have a few goals, anything above that is a plus. * Very musical like from 27hz to 50 hz or so * Crazy Hair-tricks * Nasty lows that you hear from blocks away * 153s Amps: Either of the following combinations (help me decide) looking to stay below 2 grand for amps (mind you these numbers arent including any rises, these are the top of the spectrum at absolutely max power, voltage and unlikely circumstance but why not account for these anyways ) * B2M1u - Running at 0.5Ω daily & burping (4950w @ 14.4v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two Crescendo5500 - Running at 1Ω daily & Burping (2900w @ 13.8v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two SoundQubed3500 - 8600w @ 14.4v - running at 1Ω daily & 0.25Ω burping (2150w @ 14.4 daily & 7000w @ 14.4v burping per sub theorycrafting) $1200 Subs: Four SoundQubed HDC4-15s Charging System: Triple Alt bracket, stock alt for regular electrical and two 300+Amp alts for audio system. (recommendations on alts for this system?) also will probably run ext regulated so I can run a 16v audio electrical More details on Electrical: All electrical will be in a waterproof toolbox in the back of the bed under a soft top. Hole cut in the bottom or back to allow access for wires into cab. * 6 banks of 8 caps per bank. (maybe more banks) * 2 runs of 1/0 for power off each alt to rear * Dual inputs on both amps for 4 runs total of both power and ground * Alternator grounds going straight to strut mount brace for a vehicle grounding. * All grounds in rear from cap bank/amps going straight to frame Fusing: * All 4 runs off alternators being fused in back before connecting to cap banks. * Fuse between cap banks and amps * Any other places I'm forgetting? Random Details: I would like to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the toolbox free for actual storage for like a bag of fuses, drill, and other random tools for comps. I dont have toolbox yet but will get one that fits under the soft top and leaves enough room for me to load my motorcycle up with the tailgate down. So all in all does this sound like its pretty well planned out or is there some major changes i need to make? Heres my truck in all her glory