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Found 52 results

  1. Hi! I'm rebuilding my Punto for next year events. I bought it 5 years ago so let's start from there: First system including Ultimate T2 12" subwoofer, Twister TW1000 "1000W" amplifier and Hertz low end 6,5" coaxials and JVC head unit. Then there was Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit, better Hertz 6,5" coaxials with Focus Acoustics Formula FX-4150 amplifier, SPL Dynamics XTR-380D2S 15" subwoofer, Focus Acoustics Formula FX-1500D 1500W amplifier and Optima 55Ah battery. In the next step I upgraded speakers to 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system, made bigger and better subwoofer box, added 20Ah BSB battery and some tuning parts. Next I changed Kenwood KDC-BT92SD head unit, added another set of 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system speakers to rear, changed FX-4150 amplifier to SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 and 15" XTR subwoofer to Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15". Then I upgraded the whole system and started to work with the interior. New system: Optima YELLOW TOP 55Ah and 38Ah batteries Focus Acoustics FX-2500D 2500W amplifier Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15" subwoofers x2 SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 amplifiers x2 Hertz ESK163L.4 component speaker systems x2 SPL Dynamics SPL-HD25T Horn Loaded Compressor Tweeters x2 Match PP72W-D subwoofers as midbasses at front x4 To be continued in new post
  2. Hey guys, thought I would share my new build here. 05 Acura TL Pioneer avh-4800bs Vifa XT19 tweets Silver flute 8's Rockford T400-4 bridged DD 9518g DD M2a 7 cubes net, 32hz, 2 6" ports through rear deck. Diy flared 2/0 Lincoln Electric welding cable Started out with 1 stereo integrity HT18 infinite baffle on a jbl bp600.1 Loved how clean and smooth it was, could hit any note. Played 10hz test tone effortlessly. Just not enough output for me. Also had to angle the baffle back quite a bit to fit it. So I caught a good deal on the DD sub and amp from a buddy, and proceeded to make it fit. Had to cut some metal out. And since my back seat doesn't fold, just the arm rest. I decided to port through the rear deck. Had to build the box in 2 parts to fit it in the trunk. Ended up reusing my baffle from my IB setup. 2 layers with a 3rd flushed. The DD next to the SI The 8s in the doors. Pain in the rear!! The box. 7 cubes net. 32hz. 2 6" flared ports. Tried for a 3rd, couldn't get it to clear the magnet... Might try again later. And here is the sub and amps in Backseat and amp cover in I forgot pics of sealing the box off with foam. Sealed the deck off with ram mat. Overall I am very happy with it so far. Broken windshield Edit: fixed all the pictures and added the broken windshield
  3. Got 2 off ebay 1 has a bent and cracked frame and the coils off. Called a dealer local to me today and asked about a price for new recone. Said he would have to call DD on monday. So anyone got info on recone prices and what the subs go for new? And do I have to get a recone through a dealer or can I get one on my own? First time owning anything DD.
  4. Hey folks, its been a long time. Im finally getting to do something I've wanted to do for a while! And that's a fatass quarterwave enclosure for a beefy 10 tuned lowwww. I recently acquired a DD audio ESP 10 with 9500 soft parts and a 9000 series motor. I have no idea what the T/S parameters are and frankly i dont give three shits! 30hz is the line length we are shooting for. UPDATE: line length ended up being 29hz. Right now I im running 2 memphis m5 10s at 25hz on a STEG k203. My M2c should be in tomorrow so I can start doing sloppy things and making more bass. Box is built for the DD !
  5. 9512 rear deck 03 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 53 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 52 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 55 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 56 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 54 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 57 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 58 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 59 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 62 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 63 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 60 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 66 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 67 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 68 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 69 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 71 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 70 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 64 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 65 by rogueauto, on Flickr
  6. sirhutson

    What am should I use?

    I am in need of some opinions. In my current setup i run a Pioneer 80PRS with a DD C5D running active on a Focal k2 component set. The d amp is class AB 80 X 4 at 4 ohms. I currently have an older Steg (Mosconi) K203. It's a 2 channel so i would have to introduce a crossover into the picture. But its a superbly made SQ amp which stats are as follows: 245x2 @ 4 ohm stereo 470x2 @ 2 ohm stereo [email protected] 1 ohm stereo 940 @ 4 ohm mono 1750 @ 2 ohm mono ^ DD c5d which i currently have running active. Sounds great. Ok here is the STEG: With the steg i would have to introduce out board crossovers. But my question is do you think I will get a better experience with steg and outbaord x'overs or just stick with the active setup?
  7. So I have a friend who wanted me to help him with his ride. Explained to him I am no where near professional and feel I can't charge for my work, not something I can say I will have done by X time. Told him it will be a project we work on together. He had been parting together everything over the colder months and things are starting to finally start coming around in progress. HU is installed, all the wires for the alt + and everything in the back except the runs to the amp are all made, crimped and soldered. SMD VM-1 installed by my buddy, really love the idea he had for it. But more is to come, hopefully getting some start on boxage in the next few weeks. Here is the gear list. Kenwood Double din (don't have model # atm) Sky high car audio 1/0 cable all around Stinger 6k RCA's SMD VM-1 XP3000 Stock batt later to be AGM Undecided Alt DD 9515j DD M4 Big box go boom Here's some snaps of da bish Working on his ride jamming with my tunes That engine bay. I had made a topic earlier and some asked about the engine bay. The alt is hard to reach, but with some removal, access gets a lot easier. Bare gutted trunk and batt in stock location. Putting stock batt on right side, xp3000 on left side. New location Le wire Left switch is parking break ground so you can have DVD's and video going. Right switch is a on/off for the remote wire. My buddy wants the ability to just turn off the sub when he don't want to hear it. Pos from front to back, trunk batt ground, and pos/neg for in between batts Then the VM-1 Then all the wires, all that's left is the box and batteries to be positioned really. RCA's, remote, pos/neg for vm-1
  8. MrGrey13

    DD 3512 preferably blown

    In search of a DD 3500 12 sub, preferably blown because i need a second one that im going to powder coat and do a custom recone. Needs to match this.
  9. So i think i never posted any build log so far..and as this is my first time ever and here is like 2 AM im kinda not knowingly what to post first... So my car is a 2014 Opel Corsa D(last generation of this model) its an 1.2 but enough for me, and fuel consumption is as it is..so about 7 liter per 100 kilometers Despite beeing a fan of Alpine i moved to Pioneer HU as there are more suitable for my use ----The Corsa---- My sistem: Radio --- Pioneer 8400BT Front --- Alpine SPR 60C Sub Control --- Pac LC1 Sub Amp --- DD M1b current Sub --- GZ Nuclear 15SPL (wired at 2 ohm) and almost gone(sorround is ripping, dont know the cause..) New sub is a Ground Zero Radioactive 15SPL The box is finished for this sub and tuned at 36hz which i belive is just about right.. there is also going to be a video or 2 about the nuclear playing before i put it out of the car ----Radio---- ----Old Nuclear sub---- ----the New Radioactive 15SPL---- that is it for now...more in a couple of days
  10. Paul Teodorescu

    DD 2512 enclosure help?

    Hi, I recently purchased 1x 2512 dual 2 and I will amp it with RF T1001BD @1ohm. Can you give me some infos about the box, i listen to rap/trap/chillout/electronic music so i guess i need some combined low-medium frequencies. what specs do you recomend? the sub and the port i was thinking to face forward to trunk or inside the car. One of the recomendation i got is to go with: 34x16x15, port width 2.8-3 and length 30" that will give me about 2.4ft3 net, port area of aprox 40in3 and frequency of 36hz. I have a Subaru Legacy Sedan (40inches max width, for depth i can go as much as 50inches and the height is a little problematic, 15inches max) Please excuse me for bad english. Thank you
  11. LukeMeadows

    9512 DD Box Design

    I just got another 9512 after my last one was stolen out of my truck about a month ago. The old one was in a pre-made box unfortunately. But I am going to build the box for this new one. I've heard a few different things on how much airspace it needs but I am still not 100% sure what is correct. I have a 2800 watt db drive monoblock amp and I have tons of space to use. Does anyone know what will produce the best sound quality and be the loudest at around 32Hz? I want very "boomy" bass. Thanks. All suggestions welcomed
  12. Here is the last of the 12's. Its all ripped out now. Moving on to bigger things. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LqkInkQzq38
  13. So here is a build I did for someone over the winter. it is 2 9512g's on 2 m1b's. soundstream mids and highs, soundstream x3 4 channel on mids and highs. anyways here is a short vid of it. http://youtu.be/_MNMMvEtVzc
  14. So this is my first build log that I plan on keeping updated. Big S/o to CJ18 Swordlordboy1234 Daniel martin & stanbro. Had a Nissan while i was in japan did a single 15. Im going back single 15 just because its cheaper than dual 12s. Gonna see how this goes. Don't really have any goals just trying to do a clean install this time around. Right now i have Head unit- JVC 60bt All Knu- wiring SUb amp- DD M3B Sub- Skar zvx 12 4chan- some garbage that needs to be switched out. highs- right now 2 8in pwx mids in the driver door. I need to find a shop to re do/finish my doors. electrical- Stock battery upfront with most of my big 3 done, and a duracell agm in the rear. still need sound deadener, a new 4 chan, and to clean up my wiring in the trunk. Sorry for the huge pics knu wiring doing the big 3 head unit first attempt at fiber-glassing i ended up giving up. First two boxes i ever built. both for the zvx. had a DC 2k pushing the 12 at first switched it out though. Loved that amp. CJ18 has some quick shipping FYI www.droppinhzcaraudio.com MY current situation Building a new box for this 9515 The massive workshop some days i love being in the military. How do i keep this from happening to my terminals? Im thinking its happening bcus im mixing two different metals.
  15. Here is a short flex vid of my system. everything sounds clear in person. So anyways tell me what you think. http://youtu.be/9iYRXABDh84
  16. ok so I talked about this in my status and thought I would create a thread. anyways so sometimes one of my subs looks like it is moving more than the other. it isn't always the same one. sometimes its the right sub and sometimes its the left. but sometimes it is in sync. so I'm not sure. I checked each coil, all my wiring, and everything checks out. my subs are identical (DD likes to mess things up sometimes). I'm thinking this is just an illusion but like I said I am not sure. my electrical is still supper weak so idk maybe my amp doesn't like it. anyways anybody have any ideas?
  17. aqlover

    WTB DD C5c

    Needing a DD C5c new or used with a cheaper than new price tag. Looking to buy NOW!
  18. nathin

    DD M1C Power surge?

    I've got a DD M1C, and its a great amp but something's wrong and I'm not sure what it is. As long as I'm playing music, the amp performs flawlessly. But if i turn the volume down, and leave it down for, say, 5-10 minutes, its like the amp has to dump some stored up power and like surges. It clips out, the subs (2 DD 1508's) both bottom out, and the clip indicator flashes on the knob. The first time this ever happened, we were in the middle of construction, and had no way to stop it, the amp surged a good 5 or so times, each time getting progressively worse. This happens when the volume on the knob is all the way down even. It's like, since the amp isn't putting out any power to the subs, it builds up and has to dump it all. That's just my guess. I don't know what the problem actually is. Anybody have an idea as to what's going on?
  19. I just decided to create this thread to do a slight review of my Digital Designs M4. Before getting to that I'd like to thank Zac Davis owner of Tinker Toys in Beloit, Wisconsin, if you need a system for a good price he'll make sure to get you the best bang(yeah, shitty pun) for your buck. So on to the amp, first off the thing looks great, DD has always gone with a KISS approach to their amps, no unnecessary lights or graphics, just a solid color with some an engraved DD logo and amp name, in this case M4(the M4a has M4a engraved into it and so on per amp). Next I'd address the size, just about any 5kw amplifier will take up some space at 22"L x 9.12"W x 2.5"H and add some weight to your vehicle but you're definitely getting a lot for the real estate in my opinion, comparable amps such as a DC Audio 5k and Crescendo BC5500 are a bit larger. On to the hardware side, the terminals look and feel to be of damn good quality, no worries about stripping out a set screw, the signal inputs are very solid where they're set as well. One issue DD needs to address is that they have a cutout on the mounting area for a screw to pass through BUT this cutout is blocked by the speaker outputs, the feet should have mounting tabs should have extended out a bit further. Also, I thought I had blown something up when my amp had no output because the switch to go from master to slave got moved, the switch protrudes quite a bit making it very easy to move with pressure to it, had this been recessed or flush it would have been much better. Now I'll talk about output although I can't say too much yet. I have my DD 9515 wired to 4 ohms so it's not the loudest setup in the world but it's satisfactory for now, at 4 ohms you can't see any fluctuations on the stock voltmeter, I have a 1993 Ford Ranger with a junkyard alternator and remanufactured battery, oh yeah, I also have a DD SS4a running on stock charging and even when playing it loud(what is loud for this setup) I don't see any issues with voltage dropping. Long story short this(these) amp(s) is/are VERY efficient although most higher end amps are when being run at 4ohms. TLDR; Pros: Looks very nice Very efficient Per other reviews does at least rated power Has hardware you can torque down on Smaller footprint than other comparable amps Comes with bass knob!!!1(I don't use it) Cons: Master/slave switch protrudes too far and is easily hit Mounting design should be improved Manual isn't as detailed as it should be and obviously was written by someone who isn't the best at English In the near future I'll add another 9515 or two IF I decide to stick with DD subs and then I'll wire down to .75 or 1ohm and see how everything goes. I don't expect stock charging to support it but I'm interested to see what happens when this amp really wakes up. I'll keep you all posted.
  20. I don't know many people who build bigger stereo systems in a Subaru WRX, so I thought I would share this for fun. I will post pics up as I work on it more throughout this cold ass Wisconsin winter! Head Unit - Pioneer AVH1500DVD(soon to be upgraded to the DEH-80PRS) Charging System - DC Power 250 Amp High Output Alternator - 0 gauge Stinger power/ ground wire(upraded since alt pic) - Duralst Platinum AGM Group 35 (temporary until I get a couple XS Power 3400's) Amplifiers - Mmats 2000.1D (subwoofer) - Kicker IX500.4 (front stage) Subwoofer - Digital Designs 3515 with a carbon fiber dust cap upgrade - Custom built 4.5 cu ft box with a single 8" Aeroport tuned to 30hz Front Stage - 2 Crescendo Audio Pro Audio PRX 6.5's - 2 Crescendo Audio FT1 Super Tweeters
  21. afatlazyturtle

    New 15

    Hey guys, I haven't posted in awhile. Been pretty busy with the holiday's and such and I feel bad for not communicating with the community but I'm busy commutin. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions with 15's that they like, how they sounded, how loud they were in their build, the pros and cons and all that good stuff. I'm going to do a new 15 build for a new car I got and I want to start in the spring. So I was thinking of using an x 15. Fan of sundown and figured getting low and dirty with a nice clean sound won't be bad, but unsure how loud I will be getting. I'm not too worried about it but always consider other possibilities. Now I'm just curious what you guys think?
  22. What's up guys, I got a quick question. I have an old dd2512 that needs a recone. I've reconed as sub's before and even built some hybrids. I was wondering if dd still reconed sub's as is rather just have them do it if price was right. I've tried contacting them directly but never get a reply. I know they used to do it. Does anyone have any info or contacts? If not, does anyone know where I can get a complete drop in? I have 2matching subs so I'd prefer dd parts so theyd match. Not lookn to build a Frankenstein from scratch. Thanks in advance
  23. I am trying to get some suggestions for a new box. It's going in the bed of my 93 c1500. The subs are two 9515's (H motors w/shorting rings and I baskets & soft parts). Amp is JBL / CROWN GTI 6k. I've done two different ported boxes (10 cubes @ 33Hz with 145 sq of port area and 13 cubes @ 36Hz with 201 sq of port area). ..My question is do i have too much power for boxes this big? I'm considering 3-4 cubes per sub....Thanks in advance for any insight
  24. So I'm putting a bunch of gear from my last system into a 2 door Toyota Starlet hatch, and I'm now unsure about the placement of the woofers and midbass. The speakers that are going to go in it are: x4 older model DD w6.5s x2 DD c6.5s used as mid/woofers x2 DLS 2.5" dome mids x2 DD tweeters from the c6.5 set The last 3 items will be on DLS 3-way crossovers, the stuff sounds quite good together with the tweeter wired out of phase and the woofers high passed at like 120-150hz kinda range. The w6.5s were amped separately picking up where the c6.5s left off down to about 70hz. I'm yet to decide on a sub, I'll either make do with something I have or try borrow something off someone. Hopefully I can get hold of a spare 9510 or something. Anyway the mids and tweeters are going in pods on the A pillar so that is sorted. I'm just not too sure what to do with all the 6.5"s now. The original idea was to glass the c6.5s in the front doors and glass the w6.5s in these little recesses by the back seats. But now I'm wondering if that'll kinda ruin the imaging. But as impressive as 3 6.5"s in each front door would look I'm not sure if there is enough room because the doors aren't too thick, and the windows aren't electric so there needs to be room for the winding handle. Also I don't know which would give the w6.5s the best airspace, the little recess in the back has a little pocket which looks as though it can be popped out and then it should have a lot of room behind it. I took a bunch of pictures, sorry there isn't really anything to show scale, but that recess in the back is about 6.5" tall and 14"ish long and the doors will definitely fit a single 6.5" toward the front of them. So what do you guys think I should do? w6.5s in the back ok since they aren't playing too high? Try squeeze everything in doors? (not sure if possible)
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