fr34kout

Nobody said anything about your subs or amp? And skittles you should be happy, I'm seeing like 2400 out of my 4500 ; ;. .7->3.3 rise sucks

You still need to correctly set the gain to use the amps full potential. The gain knob isn't a volume knob, you don't crank it all the way to the right to "use the amps full potential"

General rule of thumb is if you replace something, you void the warranty on the part. IE: you change your intake, the warranty on the intake is void. But the stock intake is off, and you should have a warranty for your new intake from the company you bought it from. So no changing your fogs isn't going to void your warranty on the whole car, it should just void the warranty on your fogs.

Mine got sent out on a thursday or friday and got here (hawaii) on tuesday. You'll get it in a couple days lol

Not going to fly off lol but you could lose cone control and have the sub start to bottom out and there's probably some other bad stuff that could happen too.

I'm no box builder, but that extra room could be too much, it depends on how much the manufacturer calls for vs how much power you're running.

You could wire it to .5 for daily and the amp will handle fine, you might need another battery to be safe. I have 1 D3400 up front, 2 D3100's in the back, and a Mechman 270a alt.

Well the cap kind of gets in the way of your electrical. It has it's uses, but for the most part it's a nuisance. Go read up on them and you'll start to understand why they're not very useful most of the time. Here's a good starting point: http://www.worldandi.com/subscribers/feature_detail.asp?num=23938

I showed you the amperage that the amp was putting out, so I'll do the math for you. AQ ~ 4300 @ 14.4 volts. 4300 / 14.4 = 298.6 amps of current. SD ~ 3660 @ 11.9 volts. 3660 / 11.9 = 307.56 amps of current. 307.56 x 14.4 = 4428 watts. The down and dirty of it is you're not going to clamp 4k out of either amp by wiring your system at 1 ohm. Your voltage is going to drop below 14.4, and your box rise is going to put you above 1 ohm. Like I said I have a SAZ4500 running an 18" SMD @ 1 ohm so that's about .7 nominal. If I had no box rise, I would see well over 5k. But with box rise I'm up to about 3.3 ohms, and clamping about 2400 watts out of my SAZ4500. Does that mean the amp doesn't do 4500? No it just means that box rise is a bitch. It isn't something you should really worry about unless you are purely burping your car and willing to build multiple boxes. Take the info for what it is and just know the that SAZ3500 is going to put out a little more power than the AQ, but at the same time it's a little more expensive. Both amps are beasts so pick whichever one you want Edit: Oh and get rid of the cap, just run your batteries.

I'm 100% sure, but as you can see the difference isn't night and day. Jacob probably could have got more out of the amp, I believe tests were done with the gains just at half. Honestly, you will be happy with either amp. I'm running an AQ 1200 in my saturn and I've been beating the hell out of it for over a year now, not one hiccup. In my Envoy I'm running a SAZ 4500 and a SAX 100. and I couldn't be happier. You probably won't hear the difference between the two amps, but you might see an extra .1-.3 on the meter with the Sundown vs the AQ.

"Prices below are shipped in the continental 48 states -- contact us for shipping quotes to AK and HI."

This is Jacob's actual clamp test of the SAZ 3500 SAZ-3500D: POWER : 3660 Watts AMP VOLTAGE (measured) : 65.84 V AMP CURRENT (calculated) : 55.58 A ACTUAL IMPEDANCE (calculated) : 1.18 ohms SUPPLY VOLTAGE : 11.9 V If you do straight math, the 3500.1 (if doing exactly rated) is putting out about 298 amps worth of current, and Jacob's test shows the SAZ3500 putting out about 307 amps worth of current. So the SAZ is going to put out more power and do well over rated at 14.4. This also depends on your box rise, but both amps are going to be affected by that.

Fi has recones specifically for other companies subs, if you click Re-cones, the 2nd image says Other Recones backwards, they list all the subs from other companies that they sell recones for backwards. So the first one says enoceR-TM-ER which is RE MT Recone backwards, so that's their recone for the RE MT. The fourth one down is the one you want "enoceR ES-ER"

It's nice to see what kind of impedance you're actually seeing and how much power you're really getting out of your amp. I didn't care until I clamped my amp and saw I was rising from .7 ohms to 3.3 ohms, that's a big difference.

The title next to your name is based on the amount of posts you have, not your actual TL score most of the time. /facepalm

Everything is so much much cheaper in the mainland.... =/

Like... almost 4x

I can second this, guy here locally holds our Class A record in his blazer and he ALWAYS runs sub up port drivers side. Doing 150.x with a 10, 147.x with an 8, and 153.x with an 18.

Rule of thumb is to use a fuse within 18" of each battery on the positive run. So if you only have 1 battery and an amp, you fuse 18" or closer to the front battery. Fuse according to the fusing on your amp. If you have multiple batteries, you also fuse within 18" of each battery. So for your positive run from front to back you fuse within 18" of the front battery and within 18" of the rear battery, fused to the size of the wire.

Got the alarm from the dealer

Too lazy to go look for the reciept, but I did get a really good deal since I know the guy that runs the shop. Was just pointing out it *can* be done for cheaper it depends on who you know and how good of a deal they're willing to give you.

Yea that also depends on the shop too, I paid 500 installed for mine. Still a little out of his price range but I think it would be worth saving up a little extra.

I have a 5901 on my 08 Envoy, had a problem with it for a few weeks and it ended up being a faulty antenna. Got it changed and it's been working 100% since then. Would definitely recommend it, I just wish I got the 5902 for the better remote.

Guy locally ran 4 T2k's to 1 12" BTL, guess that means they're not strappable... Anything is possible with a Maxxlink (almost)

Orly? A DMM to clamp output on an amp? So what are you going to do, find voltage and take a guess at your amperage? Pretend rise doesn't exist?