matt14

By ear isn't really accurate imo. I would see if there is a.member on here close to you with a o-scope and see if they will help you out. You could still have some clean power on the amp availble.

How did they set your gains? Did they adjust by ear, set to half and leave it, use a dmm, or did they use a o-scope. After some reading on here for a while, using a o-scope really is teh only real way to set the gains properly. First you need to see at what volume the h/u is clipping ( dirty signal ) at, the set the amplifer gains after that. This really is the only accurate way. Ive gone to shops here local to me and talked to them about amp gains and settings and some of them do it there own way, which is usally by ear.

You could run something else other then the kicker. Sundown is very underrated, but a little expensive ( still good for the power though). The crescendo 3k's from what i read and heard do have the same board as the sundown saz3000. Crescendo no longer carries the 3k and have a new line of amps avaible now. You could find some 3k's used, thats how i got mine. You could p.m. some Dc audio dealers on here and they can get you some prices on some amps and are very helpful. They dont publicly display there prices.

Call the dealer and.they may be able you out. Or did you try and Google.it?

So alpine helped me out and re-coned it last night for me. He took out of my truck and asked why the sub was squeeking at him. Told him that's why i was here. Looked like the spiders were starting to lift off the landing. Took a look at the coil once it was out and perfect, nothing wrong at all. Then hes like WtF, why is there a screw on top of the motor? The screw was rubbing against the inside of the coil, causing the noise. Not really sure how the screw actually got there, but it was there. The only thing that i could think of is that somehow when I put the 6.5 speaker on the dust cap to hold it down, the screw came out and dropped inside? Maybe when the cap was off, I may have moved the 6.5 over the sub to the other side of my car and a screw dropped in and just diddnt hear/notice it.? Anyways, its done and coo now. Thanks again to Alpine for helping me out. Him and Kimo are coo ass people.

9+ per foot is what I was quoted for r.f.1/0 from a stereo shop. Other shops said that 1/0 was overkill and 4g is suitable for any build. You could always buy the cable yourself and hit someone up on here to see if they could.do it for you end pay them.

Save some money and get some 1/0 with a dist block.

3sixty problem or rca's is what I'm thinking.

Should be good on 700. Im thinking your stock alt is at least 100amps.

Pick up a voltmeter from stinger or something to keep a eye on your voltage. Sounds like a alternator problem though.

I think that those CDT's are also the same that im running. Theyre coo, just lacking he mid a little to me. Gonna end up throwing those in the my wifes volvo and maybe going with some crescendos whenever they come out.

Im running a crescendo 3k and their 4 channel in my truck. I'm running two xspower 3400's with a dc 250amp alt in my yukon. For sure the biggest you could afford and i would recomend to get at least another battery. H.o alt too. Also im running at .5 ohm

I just went on and dont see a 3400?

Like c-fizzy said, you can order up the amp kit and make sure to get some some 4g and also some extra 1/0 for the big 3. Dont forget to get a fuse holder and fuse for the 4g. You could always " piece together" your wiring. Also order pure OFC wire and not CCA.

Isn't there three wires. Battery voltage, ground, and trigger. Can't remember, but is the red the trigger to to turn on amd the blue is 12volts?

Single subs can get pretty loud. But see, if you sell off your existing equipment and put that together with the 350 you have, you could have some decent cash to spend on a new setup. Get a quote on some DC level 4's and a new AQ2200 will run you for about 400 i think. You may have enough for this if you sell your stuff.

Sell off your existing equipment, and do some research on here and you can get a good idea on what you can run. I sold my old equipment and some other stuff i wasnt using around the house to fund a re-build. If it were me, i would still sell the L7's you have. I sold a 15" L7 two months ago with a prefabbed box for 220, so im sure you can get some good cash for yours. Then, do your research and buy something else.

Id check out a XL. Just pm a dealer here and get a quote. Not sure what ascedants go for, but you can always give them a call and find out.

I'd sell it. From what I thought I heard, that a lot of the other states are basing there emissions testing by California standards. But that's newer cars . Some of the other states have actual inspections of the cars, we don't.

Are they a Dual 2 or 4 ohm subs?

I fused mine with this build, but not with my old one.

Called and ordered up the recone yesturday. Gonna start with a box real soon as well.

Gonna order it up on monday. Sucks, but gotta do it.

I called dc and spoke to thorshammer, and him and rusty were watching the video when I called and they think that the coil got unwound. So re-cone it is. I did push down on the woofer earlier on the dust cap and same noise. Anyone local want to help me out and help me with the recone. Never done one before.

Im not for sure if it was 5 lbs. It was a half of a roll of duct tape, 6.5" speaker, and a can of some wax. Looks like ill be calling rusty tomorrow for a recover kit.