UnderLoK

I would get another one for my 61' Deville in a second... Waxing that thing sucks!

Does the CEA cert have a different meaning than it used to (pre-06)? That's a serious question The last time I cared about CEA is when ADS, MMATS, and the like weren't. I had assumed CEA was still not only a gaurenteed output in situations which are not real world, but also carried with it a limit or has that long since changed? EDIT: Reworded, I sounded like a 2 yr old

Ignore CEA, just buy a quality product (AQ being one). Most of the amps you see people running around here would be a good buy, just don't use me as an example and stay the hell away from Soundstream...

Agreed... Honestly it looks like your motor has a serious problem and it's burning a ton of oil. If that buildup on the windows (assuming your exhaust doesn't leak) is only in the back it's coming out of the exhaust. I know it's not the answer you want to hear, but IMO it's your motor. Might just need new seals or worse case might have a crack.

Right and that resistance is what the alt needs to fire up. If that bulb goes out the alt won't charge (at least in the old days). The DR44's use some computer bs to tell the alt to charge. It will charge between 12.9-13.6 in "economy mode", off in "no charge batts full", and 15.2-15.9 in "Startup" modes. This wire (from what I saw yesterday) carries 3v on average and above 20v at start and while it would make sense that this change in voltage controls the modes which it charges at I don't know that for a fact. It also senses voltage state and load from an inductive pickup off of the battery (a ground loop around the factory ground) I guess either these AD's that slave are setup different or these ADs work like the old school pre-CS alts did where you just had to hookup the lamp and it would charge. My old Caddy for example has lamp (actually just a resistor), power, and ground. Also you can't chain 2 DR44's... I guess it screws with the PCM. What I really should have (had Mechman, DC, Iraggi, XS, or anyone else I talked to thought about it) is 2 AD244's so I don't have to deal with the PCM at all. Sure the idiot light would be annoying, but there is no reason to deal with this crap ass charging voltage, it's just stupid. MLA is on the way so we shall see. Either which way thanks for the help man I didn't understand what the other wires were for and that was a big help.

Worse yet, I uploaded the wrong video... It was of Aaron mixing resin... people on Youtube were like "um I thought this was a bass video" hahah

Visors moving an inch and the headliner doing a wave don't lie I hear a 52, but if it was sealed I would be on the way... Being at Slamology might make me change my mind about sealer and get some 2 part foam and own this bastard... Tried a hairtrick with the wife, but too much air is getting past the wall and she has thick curls which is asking alot anyways... My one GF is an azn so she might be the ticket to a trick... Should know for sure this week.

Booya We just got back from a shop unfortunately my wife forgot the camera, but he is on here and did tape some maybe he will post it White Girl is so below tuning now BUT damn the highs are nasty

It's straight up nasty... I can only imagine what it would be like sealed... Maybe when the truck is 6 or 7 EDIT: DAMNIT! I uploaded the wrong one... Update soon fail lol

Thanks man, just found an old email, it's the L wire maybe because the wire carries resistance or something.

That wire off the DR spikes up to 20+v at start then settles around 3-4v so I'm thinking it needs to go on sense? Like I said before it was on L which just might no longer be L

OOPS mispost

I'll give it a spin thanks man, I think it's a bit different as a slave with a DR master, but I'll see what's what. This alt shouldn't need the lamp hooked up (like you would if it were the only alt you had in a 03 or whatever)

It's P L IF S (F being under the I) Previously it was hooked up to what I think (in the pic) is L... So it should be IF then since it's getting the signal off of the DR44 sense wire or S is for sense?

It lives!

So I'm looking back over my old pictures to see how to hookup my secondary alt and I'm not even sure it's right so I thought I would double check. I've been searching on the forums and I'm coming up empty so hopefully someone can chime in with a quick answer as Aaron and I are almost done with the BITCH Previously I was using the 2nd wire from the drivers side which runs to my harness. My old plug had letters on it but this one doesn't. My old picture is below and just wanted to double check this is correct because it will take me an hour to test it (ripping crap off to run the single alt). **don't worry about the fit, this pic was a test fit before I sent the kit back. It's not like that now** Thanks guys!

It's playing as of 9 or so last night. It's just about done (as far as Aaron is concerned I think it is done). I just need to get the interior back in, clean it up, put in the other alt, and toss in the MLA once I gets here (should be here by mid week). Worse case it will be there on one alt

Yea just a little bit, it's one of those annoying ass ones with congestion and a headache constantly. It's almost gone now. I'll get another video up this morning lots done

It's getting close! Gonna be nasty **Yes we know there are gaps around the box, it will all be sorted especially if Sensai comes through You can check the build log over here.

when people say the same, they are talking like, the lead acid, needs to be with another lead acid one, or AGM needs to be with AGM... because they charge differently, and will draw off each other untill they die.. *if i remember right You do Most AGM will sit in the high 12's as to where the wet batteries will sit in low to mid 12's so your AGM's will constantly be trying to equalize the voltage.

If you're going to spend under $800 or $900 HP is not a wise choice. They make great laptops, but not in the cheap catagory. Same holds true for most. We have hundreds of Elitebooks we support and they are literally problem free unless a user breaks it (drop, broken usb port, etc). The only one to have a problem in the last 1.5 years was a dead battery. The only time I buy or suggest b-stock is from Apple. Mainly because I've never snagged one from any other company. I got my unibody MB years ago (4 maybe) for $850 when the new ones were $1400 (or maybe it was 1200 I forget). It came clean as clean could be and if the model was used and referb they replace the trackpad and keyboard so you don't wind up with a used one. Slap Windows on it and you're good to go. IMO the best 3 manufacturers of laptops are Toshiba, HP, and Apple (in that order). That is from personal and work experience over the last 15+ years. The 4 Dells I've had didn't last more than a couple years max and one died 9 days out of warranty, but again when you are talking "cheap" laptops I don't think any of them qualify as reliable. Cheap laptops are viewed as nothing more than a bandaid meaning that in a year or two it's time to move on. If you spend the extra money odds are your laptop will last for years to come. I have 2 Satellites here that are over 10 years old and still work (the one is my firewall).

I would go with Toshiba... Their R705 is one of their lighter models and while it's small it's still quick. You would have to look into it though I don't remember if it has a BD or not.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/98798-who-all-is-going-to-slamology-2011/

How old are you? They knew in the early 60's they were bad... They being the public. I'm a grown man, I know the risks, but I choose to take them. I don't need a scapegoat or to pretend I'm an idiot that has no clue to the dangers of smoking. You sound like most of America in that you take no responsibility for your own actions. Americans love doing stupid shit and then passing the buck... It's our style... Fortunately for me I'm not one of them and own my successes as well as my mistakes. Is it stupid? Sure... So is wrecking your hearing with car audio... So is eating crappy food... So is being out in the sun... So is drinking, smoking weed, taking pills, taking Tylenol or any other of a million things.

Marl menthol golds (lights)... No idea how much, like $6 I think, but I always have coupons. In the summer I pack my own so it drops down to like $1 a pack or something.