Autruche

If you were thinking of a Sundown 3500, why not email a DC dealer about a couple DC 3.5ks? They are actually pretty damn cheap for 3.5Ks. Or maybe seeing if you could get a couple of AQ 3500s.

T-line wall. It would be badass. Otherwise I'd say do a 4th order or 6th order bandpass.

If you did have it at a 1 ohm load, then it should have been fine, but from what I have heard those PB amps go up in smoke easily if you don't scope them. If you plan on running that much power you should invest in a scope. You don't need a top of the line one, just a simple Velleman HPS10 and a sharp eye will do. Otherwise get an amp with a clipping indicator, like an AQ 3500. Then just learn how to set your gains properly. It's pretty easy once you learn how and you'll be scoping everything cuz it's addicting.

You toasted your MOSFETs. You need to get it repaired or replaced, as that might not be all that is wrong with it. Most likely this happened because you drove the amp too hard a clipped the output section to death, or wired it to too low of an impedance. What impedance was the amp seeing and did you scope it?

Yes, just like that, just make sure you go all the way around the pipe if you brace it around the pipe, or go all the way around the flare so you can secure it all the way around, an make sure to round the top so your port bracing has minimal interference with moving air. Like so:

If you are on a budget of $600-$700 you won't get too much unless you're buying used. If you want new, I'd suggest either a couple DC level 3s, Sundown SA series, Or AQ SDC2.5 series, in whatever size you want on around 1200-1500 watts. I'd suggest a couple of SA 12s on an AQ 1200 in either of the boxes I designed for you, but do whatever is most appealing to you. I'll make you another box if you want something other than 12s.

making port braces is easy, you can do it two ways. 1) make a small block and screw it to the box, and screw it to the inner port flare. 2) make a piece of wood with a circle cut out that you can slide the port through, and glue it to the bottom of the box. make sure it fits tightly around the port though.

Nice. This makes me sad that my friend is selling his explorer. I want to rebuild it and make it better.

Where did you relocate the coolant overflow tank to? Cuz if you just removed it

My friend's get's headliner, mirror, roof, hatch and side window flex with 1 18 on 3k. http://www.youtube.com/user/thaostrich#g/c/D0C0B757BB5E454A I know another guy who has 4 15s and about 3k in a 4 door explorer of the same generation and he gets the same flex, just a little more of it.

Good point. Do it to it Lars! I'd love to do a 13BTT and a 5 speed in an s10 at some point in my life.

YES. 2JZ, RB25 or 26, or a 13B. Revenge for all of the people that put LS1s into 240SXs and RX-7s!

Build the box with wood glue and screws like you normally would. Then buy a jug of fiberglass resin and paint a thick coat of resin in all of the corners on the inside of the box. That should ensure it's sealed up nice and tight.

I'm assuming you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs, or 1 dual 1 ohm sub. You could just run 2 1500 watt amps, strapped (or unstrapped and just gain matched.) Like 2 AP 1500s. (which is what the AP 3000 is, two 1500s in one case, internally strapped.) Doing two AP 1500 could actually be cheaper than doing 1 AP 3000. http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-ap15001d-p-1452.html

Aero ports require less area because the flared ends allow the ports to move more air. generally I hear to use 7-10 square inches per cube. Yeah, it looks like it might be a little close. The XLs have an 8.25" mounting Depth. with just 1 baffle the subs will sit 7.5 inches deep, with 2 they will sit 6.75" deep. That leaves 9.25-10" of room from bottom of motors to bottom of box. Should be fine. Just make sure to secure the ports on the inside of the box, or they could move enough to hit the motors and make a really annoying sound. And add some baffle bracing and side bracing too, You'll need it.

For the AP 3000: http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=audiopipe+3000&_sacat=18795&_odkw=audiopipe&_osacat=18795&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

I think the real question is... How low is low to you?

Just try to keep the end of the port roughly the distance of it's diameter away from the box wall in order to keep air flowing smoothly. I.E. 6 inch diameter port should end no less than 5-6 inches from the wall.

I like the last one the most. Net volume looks much better and it gives you a better port area to net volume ratio.

hmmm... Stay with them all until ambulance gets there (gives you points towards the chick) then let the dream girl sit shotgun while the friend gets the trunk. If no trunk space then I choose my friend. Bros before hoes.

Personally, on that power, I'd do 6-6.5 cubes.

That doesn't come out to 16 inches per cube, it comes out to 10.8 per cube. Definitely needs more port, imo. I got it at 8.65 cubes, and that makes it about 11 square inches per cube. Just doesn't seem like enough port to me. Box volume seems good though, and you were right with your tuning. If those are your max dimensions, maybe try aero ports.

Haha, that made me lol. Ah, nice to know. As far as the straight cut bit I had to use, it was a Tool Shop brand, that was the whole problem, lol.

Last time I checked subs don't require alternators and batteries, amps do. smh.

So... I absolutely love cutting circles now, however my 1/4 straight cut bit lasted all of 2/3 of a full loop on an 11 inch circle, and the 3/8 straight cut makes more smoke than it actually cuts, so things went a little rough. But now I just got this in the mail last night. My brand new Freud 1/4 diameter, 1 inch CL downcut spiral bit. This thing looks mean. I can't wait to break it in.