Autruche

Is that a 924? I hope that isn't the factory paint, because that would make it suck even more. Hope you get it patched up and looking good as new soon!

Man, I remember that song was on the Hip Hop Hits Volume 6 CD. Along with some Salt shaker by the ying yang twins, and rollout by ludacris. Bringing back the memories of my childhood... I remember that summer... I got a job just so I could buy a bitchin stereo for my room.

If it is at least C3 grade, it is good enough for a box. Let's face it, it's wood, real wood, cross plied, multi layered, .75" thick, at least 48" x 96", and is interior grade. Sounds like you can make a box out of it to me. Money well spent in my opinion.

Wire doesn't increase your charging voltage, only how efficiently the power can make it from the alternator to the battery. it helps with voltage DROP not charging voltage.

Actually, higher preamp voltage means the signal has to be multiplied less by the amp to achieve the necessary input voltage. Every head unit has a little bit of inducted noise that flows through the system as distortion. By reducing how much you need to multiply the input signal you reduce how much you multiply the inducted noise, meaning you will get less inducted noise coming out of the output of the amp. That means more of the power coming out of the amp is usable. It can make a difference on both sub stage and front stage, sounding cleaner and potentially louder even if the system is tuned properly and exactly the same before and after the switch. There are numerous accounts of people gaining in numbers just because of switching to higher voltage preamps.

4 gauge power inputs and no hint of fuse sizing. I wouldn't even use it as a paperweight. And every setup with a Power Acoustik amp I've ever heard sounded like crap.

Waiting on my tax forms. As soon as I get a return, I'm picking both up.

For teh lazy peeps. Lookin good bro!

a picture of the cargo space you plan on using would help to more easily grasp what you are trying to say.

Not sure if I'd actually build it, but there is a possibility of doing it for the fun of it.

I was bored when I came home from work and stayed up all night screwing around on google sketchup. I was originally going to make a 6th order series tuned t-line for shits and giggles but... It turned into this. I have no idea if it would work, but I can tell you this: It would either sound like asshole or sound amazing, but I kind of want to build it... I guess it would be called something like a... quasi 8th order bandpass folded horn transmission line aperiodic bi-chamber with a Helmholtz resonator and a compression chamber... or some crap like that. I don't know, but I thought I'd share it. And by the way, I have no clue about the specs really, just kind of an on the fly thing. Main chamber is ~2 cubes net, and the loading chamber (or whatever it is) is ~1 cube net though.

Well, in that case, on that budget I would recommend the MB Quart ONX1.1500D. Not the best amp, but you can't go wrong at that price, and I'd sure as hell pick it over any Audiopipe amp any day.

Could always just remove the whole rear window and have all the room for port that you'd need. If done carefully you will not damage the vehicle in any way other than simply needing a new seal for the rear window when it is replaced. Something similar to what Hank did with his 48 10s build. Unless that is what you intended on doing in the first place and I just didn't understand the way you wrote it.

Missing one HUGE detail... What impedance do you need the 1200 at?

Wall has over 3 times the cone area and way less cabin space. Could probably beat him on head unit power. Edit: Unless he's got a REALLY nice box and your friend's wall turns out like ass.

About damn time, lol. I remember you saying that the SMDs weren't working to their full potential in that box about a week after you got them in. Definitely tuned in for this. I have no idea what you have planned, but if both Ray and you are involved it will be amazing.

I believe that is true for directly from VGA to HDMI. I run a DVI to HDMI adapter for using my LCD tv as a monitor. One like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270286 For VGA to RGB I've used a cable like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882719408 If it's for a laptop, the VGA to RGB would probably be the best choice, in my opinion. Then you'll also need a 3.5mm to RCA connector for sound.

They make them, but IIRC it has to be DVI to HDMI. It isn't the only way you can go though. You can also get a VGA to RGB cable. Since VGA is an RGB output (I believe so anyway) you would be better off going that way if you don't have a DVI output on your video card. Assuming your TV has RGB (component) inputs, which it probably does.