Fyro

Ok thanks man. Would you suggest completely replacing my current alt with a new 220amp one? Or buying the 105 or 110 or whatever it was and using that ontop of the OEM one? I'm really a noob when it comes down to some of this stuff. Would you suggest a T-Line box? Also, The sub would have to face the rear or upwards, as my rear seats are fixed :\

Hah ok, fair enough. I have heard plenty of pre-fab boxes which sound either midly decent, or don't even put out much bass at all. Only problem is I'd need to find someone in Australia who can build a decent enclosure, for a decent price, along with a $550 alternator and $200-300 battery. Then there's the amp and sub, even though I could probably run a cheap amp for the time being. Do mechman ship to Australia? I'm sure if they do it won't be cheap, then I'd have to get everything installed, because I sure as hell don't know how to drop a new alt in my car

So, after plenty of people telling me on here all the wonders of DC Audio, I have come to a conclusion. I am seriously considering one of their subs for my first setup, to go into my first car So, I drive a 2004 Aus Lancer ES CH, with stock everything except the JVC KD-R626 I recently installed and some 17" rims, and I'm looking to get some bass towards the end of the year. I'm thinking one 12" DC XL is all I will need. No idea on amps, as I don't know much about the prices of the DC amps, except the 2.0k is around $300-400? (really no clue on that one, esp because DC don't like their prices anywhere public). I know the 2011 prices of DC subs due to some random on Yahoo answers posting them up when someone asked. Anyway, just thought I'd put it out there. I do have a problem though. The alternator and power supply. As I said, everything is stock, so I really don't know how things will play out with what I think is an 85 or 95 amp alternator and 1 battery. So, I'm considering another battery from audiosavings.com, but of course, will need an alt upgrade to handle the pressure of a powerful system and 2 batteries. So does anyone know how much one of those would set me back? And how many amps a new one would need to be? I have a total budget of around $1,500, which includes sub, box, wiring, amp, and a $150 battery (maybe more) from a/savings, and probs the alternator. Might be able to up it a little with a $300+ pressie for christmas. Any suggestions appreciated! I'll probably buy a cheap vented box to begin with before getting a proper one built and tuned.

*DOuble post, oh well* http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/117455-aa-mayhem-12-pair-d1/ Thoughts? If I end up actually buying a 1kw RMS amp or more, I really have no idea how my battery and alt are going to perform. I believe the mid 2000's Lancer alts are rated at under 100amps, and the headlights even dim a little when playing loud music on OEM speakers, let alone the interior light.

If you had ray design your box. I BET Ray could make it just as flat as a sealed box with alot more output.. maybe not as flat but still Yeah, I was planning on ported anyway, I'm not planning on building a comp setup, but I do like getting loud.

$650? Nice. I'm a noob when it comes to car audio in general. The most I've done is installed a headunit, but anyway, would you ship them to Australia? I'm looking for a decent system for later this year, but at this price, it could be sooner. Do they come in that box? or just by themselves? And, what is their impedance?

I would, but I'm looking for brand new, unless there is brand new stuff in there Reason is, even though most stuff in there would be perfectly fine, I'd rather abuse something of my own, knowing that if I do, it hasn't already suffered, making it weaker.

Hmm, sooooo. I guess if I'm not buying through a/savings, it's going to a 1 powerful sub in a large box scenario. BUT, even though I'm still open for the suggestions (and thanks for suggesting a few), I still have the problem of being over in Australia, and the fact that the only way to ship over brands like AA and Fi is though someone on here, or some other way which will surely be hard on my bank account no matter what. So, 1 x AA havoc? 1x DC 12" what?? 12 XL? Level 4/5? 2 x Fi Q 12's? or those two JL w3v3's? This all seems to be around the $500 mark, so I'm cool with that, as that leaves me with around $1000 to play with for enclosures, amps, wiring and any other bs e.g. power supplies and probably an ALTERNATOR to replace the weak one in my Lancer (2004 ES CH, Aus version). I'm happy to trust the trusted people on here who act as the middleman for shipping, but it would be cool if I could get a whole reccomendation with a sub and amp combo for a good price. This is more than likely going to happen late this year or Jan or latest Feb next year, as I am a sucker for bass, and even though the OEM speakers in the 04 Lancer are capable of shaking my rearview so I have to re-adjust, it still doesn't do it for me.

So, even though DC aren't cheap by far, do they make SQ subs? or are they more for competition? Because when I say $1500 budget, audiosaving do 2 JL W3v3's in a dual 12" ported box with the wiking kit for $450, shipping to here probs no more than $550 total... Also, If I did ever decide on DC, would you only suggest 1 sub? and how much would 1 decent sub + shipping cost? The reason for 1, is because I know DC slam like crazy, I've seen them push over 150db on a single 12 before, so....

[Multiquote x 7] Thanks for the input guys. I live in South Australia, about 30 minutes from Adelaide CBD, so I don't think postage is too bad here. Also, I'm not dead set on brands, but I see JL as the flagship brand for SQ, so that's why I am really leaning towards them, as they have a good rep for subs which pound out the cleanest bass around. I am also unsure on what amp to get, but I would like an affordable one, as my budget is around $1500 AUD (for the whole setup), and like I said, I plan on getting the RMS power of the amp matched with the subs, but I don't want something which will blow up after 1 hour of use, not do I want something which will leave me with an empty room when I want to go to sleep at night because of how much it costs. Never really looked into DC, becasue as far as my knowledge goes (tbh it isn't far enough with car audio yet), DC have always appeared to me as more of an SPL brand, rather than one who competes for SQ. I'm open to suggestions, but really, my preferences are: - $1500ish budget for everything - at least 1000w RMS total - SQ subs which are reasonably loud, but sound clean - Affordable SQ amp. - dual 12" vented/ported pre-built box (unless you guys can reccomend me just one 12 or 13" sub which pounds loud enough to rule out the need for a second one... but remember, this is my first setup lol) - and someone at a local car audio shop to help with the installation.

So, I have been looking around, and doing plenty of research into what I plan on dropping into the back of my 04 Lancer, and I have a solution... 2 of them. I am one for sound quality, and I refuse to go out and plop a $200 pioneer or kicker system in the back of my car, careing less for any SQ what so ever. Basically, I am in the market for something which will be built well enough to knock my socks off (at this stage, anything over 1000w RMS could do that, as 500w RMS is the most I've ever actually been face to face with) but not SPL loud. I was originally looking at 2 AA Havoc's, as they are an SQ sub, and have a crazy RMS power rating for a 12" SQ sub. I have now moved to something a little less expensive, as I am only a 17 y.o with a part time job. Anyway, I am going stright for Audiosavings.com as their prices are pretty damn good. I am looking at either 2 JL Audio 12W3v3 - 4's in a dual 12" Vented A-trend enclosure, for $450 OR 2 RE 12" SXX 2000w RMS subs in the same setup as above for $550. I know the SXX are more for competition, but I also know RE make quality products, so what would you guys reccomend for a decent sounding setup? ALSO, I will definitely be investing in a new battery from a/savings but am not sure what to get, and will probably need a new alternator as the 04 Lancers have a tiny thing rated under 100 amps. 'Tis for later on this year, and I'm planning on having them powered to their full potential, but not pushing my bank account to it's limit... SO, what do you think? Other misc things will be invested in e.g. a rubber base in the boot so it doesn't rattle the crap out of the thin MDF board under the carpet, and little sound deadner and eventually a new set of 6 speakers.

Thanks! It sure is a good colour if I must say myself. I managed to get it down from $9,900 AUD to $9,000 on the dot INCLUDING on road costs. So a pretty solid number. Also, Lancers, Civics, Corolla's etc are all pretty reliable cars, all have a good rep and all last a lifetime. They also have no shortage of parts either, as they are so abundant. The only problem with this car is the fact that the dealership is located about 40km (1 hour) away from home, and I have only ever driven so far (and top of 3 hrs) in a manual before! So, a fun drive home

Hi! First, I don't know how the picture will turn out, because it came up way too big in my garage on here. Anyway, just bought this car, and I'm picking it up Wednesday It's a 2004 Lancer ES CH with little modifications. This picture is just after I test drove it at the dealership. Goes pretty well and is in tip top shape. ALSO, I do have a few ideas in mind when i get about 1k in the bank. A new soundsystem, but I want to get a double din headunit, but it has the stock HU in the car, so I'm not sure if I should get some spare parts (ie the radio faceplate) from Mistubishi, or buy from here. Basically, i want the A/C controls down in the spare hole under where they are now, and a new HU above that, witht eh large faceplate arount it, as the current one will only take the smaller normal H/U's. Planning on: 2 x AA 12" havoc 1 SoundStream TX1-2600D Pioneer P8000BT Double Din H/U Kinetic battery of some sort. JL Audio component/tweeter/coax speaker package. Comment away.

why would you even want to learn a stick? It's fun and you can save a little bit more on gas That used to be true but any car now especially 07 and up you get better gas mileage with auto as well as faster acceleration(hence why most in the High End Drag race scene changed to auto's way faster reaction time than a human could manage) and still not nearly as fun, auto's are gay including the auto clutch ones they came out with cbf trying to figure out what to delete above to clean up this mess. Anyway, +1 for that statement. Manual is by far way more fun to drive. You are (I know, sounds gay and cliched) also "one" with the car, as you are controlling the... well, everything you can really. Auto's know when it's right to shift, know when and where the friction point is in the gear box.. etc etc, while in a manual, you have to!

Well, I have been driving my mums Auto Corolla the past year or so, and got my Provisional license late last year, and should be buying a car I have checked out later this week, which is manual. The way I learnt in manual was by ringing the company I used for learning to drive, but instead, asked for a lesson in driving a manual, so I knew what it was like. You'll be surprised. All I knew prior to the lesson was to take my foot off of the gas before shifting, and I ended up stalling once in the whole 1 1/2 hour lesson I had So, basically just ring up the local driving school and ask if anyone who is with the company owns a manual, and if you can have a lesson in one. Stop you from learning bad habits from friends and relatives e.g. my mate always puts the clutch down as soon as he uses the brakes, even if he doesn't go below 2500/3000 rpm (which can wear out the clutch way faster... one would assume). You're making a good decision btw, they are so much more fun to drive. But the main thing I didn't know was about the "friction point". It's basically the point at which the gearbox is fully ready to engage a different gear, if you go too far past this point (ie letting too far off the clutch) the car will stall. This is where ya change gears, rev it up for a hill start etc. One of the most convenient things about driving stick is using engine braking. I live in the hills, so it's handy for me. There is this big ass road not too far from where we are, and it's basically the main road to one of the biggest shopping centres in the southern hemisphere (and also where I usually go to buy stuff apart from groceries), and to the beach. Thing is, from about the halfway mark, you either have to pump your brakes, or use the shitty 2nd gear in an auto, or just sit on your brakes lightly, and slowly wearing out the pads. Now, here's where a manual comes in (or for the ppl with semi-auto cars, with auto clutch... BORING), you can shift into 2nd or 3rd gear and sit at about 59kph with no problems at all Engine brakes for you! And it doesn't wear it out (well, if you were to do it for hours on end each day it might) My two cents, or more Hope it helps.

Good Stuff Haha, I was thinking recently, but not sure if it would work; Say you buy two subs, but are only able to power one (e.g. your amp only has 1 channel, or you want a seconds one because your amp only has one channel with a decent power output), so for the mean time, while you only have 1 amp powering one sub, the other (if it is in the same box/enclosure and isn't isolated from the other one) sub can act as a PR? Even though it will still have VC's and a magnet, I just thought that it may work Probably a stupid idea, but meh, just a thought I felt like expressing.

Have a good one! Heh, it's about 10 months 'till I turn 18, but I get to legally drink at that ago too

haha, nice. Can you help me out here? = You're going to help whether you like it or not. Thought I would contribute.

There are too many. A few good ones which don't dissappoint are: Yean Beatin - Sean Paul (and a bunch of other guys) Gangsta Rap Made me do it - Ice Cube White Girl never lets down either.

Takes the fun out of shifting. If anything, semi-auto is more fun to drive than fingershifts. If I wanted to change gears with my fingers, I'd hop on one of my bikes

Good to hear some decent opinions here Wasn't sure how the Lancer's compared with a Civic for reliability, but now I guess I know. Also, there is no shortage of parts for them either.

About the manual. You are on the same path as me man, learning! haha. I decided to have a 90 min driving lesson to learn how to drive manual properly, and man it is so much more fun than Auto, but the problem is hills. I live in the hills... and there is a lot of 'stoppy startie' (lol) business on the school/workdays. I often see people rolling back and fowards a little because some divers refuse to do hill starts, which is fair enough. What is the stang like? Got a lot of power compared to a civic.. (the most powerful car I have driven so far is a straight 6 ford fairmont)

Hey guys, this is the off topic forum so why not ask? I am only 17, but am a massive fan of SM and Car audio. Major basshead too, with a decent taste in music. I was basically inspired by Steve meade which was the starting point of my interest in car audio. Anyway, I am about to soon sell my downhill bike, and will also soon be buying a car once I sell my bike, and I thought, what are YOUR opinions on these two cars? 1999 Honda Civic Sedan Link(Here) 2004 Lancer CH ES Sedan I am only alowed a 4 cylinder car, and I can't legally have turbo's or V8's as I got my License not long after new regulations came in here in AUS. So, what would you guys think? I'm definitely going for manual btw, even though I live in the hills. I'm more concerned on reliability, how fun they are to drive, fuel economy etc. The civic I found I think is pretty awesome, as it has been lowered, and has a few other saucy mods which make the car look pretty decent. And don't hate on me for being interested in a Civic. So, thoughts?

Yep, when it hits the low beats it really makes a bit of noise. Ha, 8" 280w and it can feel it