gotspl?

twisted my man that TC sounds is retarded haha, wish I had money for one

One more question, when I put in a a curtain port length the port cutouts go into N/A and it says Port Bends: Yes why does it do this? my port doesn't bend that im aware of and I would like the cutouts for my ports haha sooo why does it do this? seems like if my box depth is say 18 and my port length is say anything above 10 this happens.

Audacity is the easiest, Adobe Audition is the hardest

If you're not running RMS of a woofer use a smaller box this yields better results with less wattage, if you want to over-power or run RMS build max specs. thats my .02 cents

final question if 5 is the diameter of the port why is the width 20? you know... doesnt make sense? if diameter is the accross of the port

ok awesome chris thanks and sorry for messing your name up haha

They call them DC custom for a reason... dude talk to DC and ask them the price to build one for your truck it will cost the same amount as if you bought a prebuilt from them

ok next question in google sketch how do I make my inches perfect say if I want 40 or 45 width why can I only make it say 40 15/11 or something crazy like that...

Under Diameter on john torres calculator what would I put? It has to do with the port , I thought diameter was roundness? Also what would I put under woofer displacement?

I just bought a Jeep Cherokee 1993 Sport in perfect condition tinted and everything, this is my secondary jeep for long rides etc. and I want to make it as loud as possible with as little money as possible so let me know what you think of this setup: Pioneer DEH 4200UB - $160 Sony Xplod 800.4 (30rms x 4 @ 4OHM) - $20 (buying from my brother) 4 6.5 Kicker XS680 (55RMS a peice) - $35 a pair so 80$ total 2 1" Sony Tweeters (5$ for the pair on ebay lol) Hifonics Brutus 1206D (1200 @ 1 OHM) - $100 (gonna buy it used/referb on ebay) 0 Gauge Wiring Kit ($30) 8 Gauge Wiring Kit ($20) thats $350 I dont want to break $600 on this budget, the jeep has an aftermarket 90a alternator (orig was a 60) and a new interstate walmart battery (will replace if I need to) and this is the tough part I dont know which subwoofer and enclosure also and other recommendations for speakers?

Also lucky you they just updated to the 2010 models that have BTL baskets and bigger magnets I believe also come stock with copper coils which were a $5 feature before and believe in SQL or not this woofer had great bass with good SQ and excursion.

I beg to differ: Two 12" CVX Kickers $We'll say $400 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2010-KICKER-CVX12-CAR-CVX-12-SUB-WOOFER-3YR-WRNTY-/290469406492?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item43a153671c 750RMS (I would go a watt over) and effectivly bad SQ and excursion, also probably won't hit as low as most 12" Fi/Sundowns etc. a Fi SSD 12" would be a better choice rated @ 800RMS requiring a staggering 2.5cuft these things hit hard I had a stock Fi SSD 15" on 1000RMS daily with no heatup and she loved it... a fully loaded one is said to handle 1500RMS you only get a 1 year warranty but... the recones only cost about $100 it's 60$ for the kit and another $40 to send it to them and have them do it. https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154c903e510420f/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript IMO I'd go the Fi route or atleast checkout DC LVL3's or something decent because the CVX is over-priced imo.

Naturally 35hz is the middleman number for lows and highs, but I tuned my brothers box to 37hz and you can tell a huge difference on rock between his and mine just by the box I'd say 37hz if your an avid rock listener drum rolls on a high freq is nasty sounding.

You don't... You hook up 4 sets max which I believe will give you a 4ohm load in series active. You need a 5 or 6 channel if you want to do 5-6 components.

So should I get TWO 1200's or a single 2400? lol I mean right now if I drive or if I dont have my headlights on when im idle I can keep it above 11v but as soon as I throw my lights on and park that shit DROPS I want to maintain a good 12.5v even in idle , I can almost full tilt idle @ 12.5v now so a battery should keep me there I hope

Nah steve that wasn't directed completely towards you, shoes are made of rubber they squeak but to single out jordans is just weird concidering ive never ran into that problem? Where do you guys buy from? Outlets/Online or thrift shops? Cause there are generic jordans out there in Conneticut I know a shop that sell Defective Jordans half price but they exclude this information... And dude im not bragging about what I pay im asking where the hell you guys are paying this much for jordans? I've NEVER seen them for over $100 unless its online.

ok will do can anyone vouch that a single EverLast starter (brand new) with stock 90amp alternator with BIG III and 0 gauge runs and a 1200 XS battery will run my 1500RMS? right now without big III or battery I get about 12.5/13 on full tilt, I want a solid 13-14v

So it says the XS is a starting battery? can I just run this adjecent to my stock starter? so basically run my stock battery in the front and the XS1200 in the back? and you think this should level the playing field for my voltage @ 1500RMS?

Also shoes that I can obtain right now @ retail price: Jordan Old School II @ 49.99$ Jordan Old School III @ 34.95$ Jordan Melo M3/M4 @ 40.00$ Jordan Melo M6 @ 60.00$ Hell if you want sick shoes with style for the basketball look invest in some damn Ballistix or something maybe some AF1 or the Jordan AF1-2's that we just got that are only $100. Honestly are you guys shopping whole retail online? if so I feel bad for yall but I never spent close to $100 on ANY of my Jordans... I did however drop about $100+ per pair of Lebrons and AF1/2's / Dunks and Space Jams Nike Air shoes are where it's at always cheap comparible between AF1's and Jordans in looks and have the comfort and reliability of a running shoe/

Also dgaribay13 Icon you don't know shit about Nike product or clothing products in general you're just another Jordan bandwagon follower (mommy kids at school got these so I need demz quickz) nah man Lebron sneakers are by far a way better asset to nike as a shoe and a player... How many Nike Outlets do you see with quality Lebrons? none... thats because people are bandwagon fools I have just as many Lebrons as Jordans and I get far more compliments on my Lebrons and honestly they're a way better built shoe. Jordans will and ALWAYS have been Nkes worst shoe... but since people follow it so much like some other brands (kicker/alpine for instance) people will always pay top price for 2nd tier clothing. But im not gonna lie Jordans are fresh as fuck and cheap as fuck and they use air max so nuff said, also dont complain about spending $110 on jordans, thats your own fault... I get jordans all day at my work (before discount) for $40 all day I dont know where you're shopping to be honest, Lebrons on the other hand you cant find for under $100 anywhere.

To the "shoe salesman by trade" pronating wouldn't cause something that, pronation causes the outter sole of the shoe to wear down AKA the rubber not the air unit. Weight has nothing to do with it, Jordans use AIR MAX technology which was actually made for heavier people to cushion and stay solid over time unlike the spongy material used in running shoes such as Zoom Technology. Jordans use the same "glue" as any other brand of shoe and/or nike shoe, and no they aren't cheap, air max units are actually the most dependable cushion support out of any company such as Adidas, Puma or various Nike shoe cushion support such as: Full Length Zoom, Half Length Zoom and of course regular Nike Air. I've never out of 4 years with Nike heard a Jordan sqeak. I own as many pairs as anyone here has listed probably more (not a Jordan fanboy just like the looks/feel and reliablity for such a cheap shoe.) Either you've got something on the bottom that causes sqeaking or you're walking on weird floors. And the only way an air unit will go is unless something very strong has impacted it... literally ive put a thumb tack to some of the stronger air units and couldnt bust it. I think you guys are over-reacting. These are bottom mill shoes as Jbinn as stated, not top tier if you want comfort/style and all around reliability you should be shopping for sportswear not casual appearel. .02 cents

I love my bass knob its saved me multiple times driving by police late at night or in the day, also same as previous poster I like to scare people with it but yes it can deffinatly cause additonal clipping if not properly adjusted.

Very informative thanks for all the help, im still in search of wingnut terminals and possible battery options.

#1: How does the BIG III actually affect the performance of electrical and what does it do? does going from 10/8GA alt/bat power to 0gauge really help THAT much? #2: Recommend me a battery $200 or under that will handle 1.5kwrms and allow me to keep my stock 90a alternator. been looking at (Stinger SPV-40 / SPV-77 , Optima Yellow Top/Red Top or maybe XS of some sorts.) #3 Where can I get some affordable wing nut terminals for my battery so I can input my BIG III gauge and output my 0/1 amplifier gauge. (all ive seen are 0 & 4 gauge battery terminals im at a loss :-/) and if anyone can "make" some up for me I'd gladly pay for them I need about 6 of them, so price would help. Thats all for tonight, thanks for anyone that may have my answers.

Pioneer indeed makes great amplifiers... If I was you though I would use that for mids/highs and just get another Pioneer Monoblock for a subwoofer setup. Also use HPF if you're doing mids/highs and use LPF if you're using the amplifier for subwoofers.