crunkjuice1

From the little I know its the voltage regulator and its adjustable from 14v up to 20v. Normally the regulator is built into a alternator but when its external like this I'm guessing it leaves more space in the alternator for more beefy parts and the regulator case design helps it stay cooler rather than it being inside the alternator where heat can and will affect performance. Thats what I think the point of going this route achieves but anyone see me saying something wrong please correct me.

You got some 8g and some spade terminals? If so How much? Believe me I want it running also! I even have the relay just down the connectors and 8g Beavis

I got this in yesterday, its a 250 max 200 idle exernally regulated alternator. Thanks again Mat, Mike, and Josh for all your help!!!! Main thing that catches my eye is the large amounts of cooling this unit has. Hope you guys like the pics. Oh Yeah Megatron tried to help hold the alt in place for the pic haha!

Only thing else I can add is to be sure what your car idles at. I have seen cases where people buy an alt from whoever just to get a bit of bad luck with car idling right below the alt turn on speed. If the electrical is your foundation to your audio system start from there and respect its limitations.

Belt wrap is the amount of contact the belt has to the surface of the pulley. some cars have I higher percentage of wrap than others and that pretty much determines if your going to have a lot or a little slip. It doesn't matter if you have a new tensioner or a new belt thats tightened down beyond a normally torqued in belt. That belt will wear out and stretch over time and add to that when the alt begins to put a demand to make power it will slip. All companies put some good amount of R&D into the units they sell but they all focus into different models at different times throughout the years. The bottom line is to understand if one company has what you need and the other one doesn't the decision process should be pretty straight forward, or its up to you to wait if they say " there will be one for your car in about 3 to 6 months " Maybe there will be something for you and maybe within that time frame it just wasn't safe or performance wise it just wasn't beneficial for the company and more importantly to you. Good luck in which ever way you go but remember that belt slip happens when there's less belt contact to the pulley as everything is going as the engine is on. This video shows a good example of improving belt slip.

I would assume the the actual amount of belt wrap on pulley is the main player with slip regardless of company.

I am throwing a swing in the dark but I THINK it might be the stator amongst other things that allow for this increase across the RPM range.

Maybe a new thread should be made to help everyone understand all the bells and whistles separating the new from the old. There's a youtube video showing the difference between iceman's white SMD alts compared to the older ones but I think that these are a bit more updated than those? here is the link to Iceman's alts Mechman alts have been aiming at beefing up the low idle output that we all like for some time now there are even youtube videos of Eric showing off certain units hitting 200rpm at idle I think even on his ford car but not under the SMD tag. They are very strong alts period but my honest opinion is people want to know exactly what they are paying for. We know you guys are busy but thats what it seems the masses is focused on. Thanks for understanding.

Idle output is very impressive on the 370s. We were able to produce a whopping 200amps at only 500 RPM!!! Most of our ratings show amperage at 800RPM...so you can expect to have more, exponentially, as you increase RPMs. The 340s are solid alternators, but we also found the need for more cruising power for our clients and thus, by altering the internal connections we were able to tweak the product to produce even more POWER!!! ~Michael P.S. These alternators are not readily available yet, to answer the question raised earlier, but are available for sale. email me for more details about this latest and greatest alt from Mechman! [email protected] This is cool to see you explain it a little more Michael, although the alternator I will be seeing is a variation with such internals as well as being externally regulated is what makes it possible. These new setups are indeed strong alternators especially at idle and RPM's under the 1800 mark. From the little I was told the stator is very well built for these applications. Like I was asking on specs as well as Hunters asking about them I think its a normal question out of curiosity as what makes it all tick. I am sure I will be pleased with my unit as well, as Matt worked well with my ford's belt wrap limitations, all I can say is that all you chevy guys have the opportunity to run some badass alternators that kill at idle as well as the rest of the RPM range

Thanks for the link. Seems like you guys are going to or already have special SMD versions or various alternators that utilize SMD alternator internals. Keep up the great work.

Give them a call for any and all your needs! I'm caught up Mechman on my needs I have to give a big shout out at Mike over at Mechman for his great patience and understanding over the phone, A+ customer service. Thanks again.

from what I've read you will need to put a diode on one of the sensors line. I think some one that installs alarms will chime in on your topic.

S versions casing more durable for under hood applications and come with posts. The D series don't have posts and are really shouldn't be used under hood but people go against the grain and do it anyways. he S versions case is better suited to withstand heat better.

where do I find specs on the alts?

Did you run ground from the alts negative stud directly to your battery negative? You should have. also its important to use the ring terminal supplied with the alt only on the post that it comes on for the best fit/contact of ring terminal to studs on alt. you shouldn't have had to replace wires simply add your 1/0 runs to the existing locations. Does your alt come with a Adjustable voltage boost module? Is it supposed to be direct plug N play? Is your car PCM controlled or not?

Love every bit of your build. Can't wait for the first videos of you bumpin out to it.

I'm looking around the internet trying to track down a transponder bypass module for my 97 ford expedition. I have a viper 5901 installed and the TBM that I am leaning to is Xpresskit PKALL. The instructions I see show the TBM learning the key through the key cylinder but I don't see one of those bands that other TBM's have that wrap around the key cylinder. Will I have to buy that separately or the PKALL just doesn't need it? Thanks for your help.

Did you DD1 your radio also? Clipped signal rolls down hill in the chain.

if you really want to do it yourself get whatever glasspack/flowmaster/magnaflow/borla you want to use sawzall your OE muffler off remove the rest off exhaust after muffler off the hangers and just get some clamps and use red loctite on the nuts and threads. I after you cut the muffler off you can buy a 12 or 18 inch pipe to extend the cut pipe a little bit more to the back then add whichever muffler you get to that. Just get down there and think ahead take your time and make small cuts at a time rather than big ones that end up leaving you nothing to work with.

I will add that the unit is where the factory tint brow is and that the driver window down a bit to show you guys this. The windows are tinted and it kind of lowers the visibility but regardless the light does its job.

sorry kinda dark but hopefully you get the idea. its brighter in person.

Sorry for the late reply. My 5901 was installed into my expedition, the original led fires into the cabin from over the rearview mirror but you can't really see it from the outside. This light has about 5 leds and its made in such a way that you can place it on the glass by the pillar or over the steering wheel on the glass. it is much more visable and the light bounces off the dash and if you put the visor down a bit off that too. i ended up cutting the last connection which was pointer but since I already had cut the random connection it stayed on random. If I want the original setting or to see the pointer effect I will have to buy another one or try to open this one a solder the two cut points in it. just to help anyone else understand about the cut points I keep mentioning. when you look at the pic if you flip the main unit over to where the stickie pad goes on it to stick to glass there are two little openings one says random and the other says pointer. You can see a little piece of line similar to a fuse in each opening that with a razor you can "cut" or "break" the connection. Out the box the lights do a back and forth motion like KIT from nightrider. When I cut the random the lights blink random. So you have to make a choice keep it stock or pick one or the other to cut. Once you cut one of the lines you can't go back to original and you wont be able to see the next choice. they are not that expensive and they really make your alarm warn away light unique. Good luck.

FlipHD????

Anyone that have this ever cut both random and pointer cut points on this unit. out the box it does back and forth I cut random and now I'm curious if it will still work if I cut the pointer cut point. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5368_Directed-629L.html

http://www.mechman.com/ give them a call.