crunkjuice1

Sweet alternator setup I'm gonna go back and re read that part but just to ask, are they all SP's or your main alt an XP and you just added three SP's??? Great build!

I love your subs bro! Honestly flex is in no way a smart way to measure anything. I know other poster was mesing with you, but still take care of your stuff.

make sure you do your big 3, fully charge your batteries before hooking up alt.

Are the ports ok being that close to the hatch? Regardless way to go on this build. If its not to late ehy not jump on three XP3000 in the back?

Thats some hard hitting hardware you got there! next thing you know you'll be flexing stop signs lol!

I think in most cases the XP's perform pretty damn good on paper and that will be seen in everybody's installs.

if DC is cheaper than mechman just do it. and please pay attention to your cars idle speed because you might end up with a paper weight. Depending on your cars idle will effect the alts turn on speed. Someone else kinda learned this the hard way.

I googled the name and number on that sticker and this what came up, http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-HUYNDAI-ACCELERATION-SENSOR-BOSCH-0273101021-/130495038967?item=130495038967&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYUNDAI-TIBURON-IGNITION-IGNITER-BOSCH-0273101021-199-/310011978431?item=310011978431&vxp=mtr

Yes Keith thats true also. Eric now that you pointed me at that does that part go by a different name?

Thanks for the help well now I have another item to get lol but thanks non the less. I have always stared at this item in my car and it turns out to be the IGNITION IGNITER! hope that does it.

Everything was working normal until car stalled out on me. I waited a bit and it started up and went for a few blocks and died. Been like that ever since. I add all the parts listed and still nothing. The ICM in my car is I think built into the ECM as the crank and cam shaft sensors are what tell the ECM where in time things are. from there the ECM will tell the ignition coil to fire. I bought the Haynes book but my blind ass can't find location of fuel pump relay or acc relay. Those relays are the cheaper route to try before throwing money at a ECM. My luck it will probably be just that. This is why I ask if a sensor/s died while car was moving would the timing have been thrown off? No backfire either. I doubt its the fuel pump I can't hear it like when it was first installed but as I keep cranking the car after a minute you can smell gas.

I have a 98 hyundai accent manual trans, has been parked going on a month heres list. new timing belt crankshaft sensor camshaft sensor fuel pump and strainer fuel filter fuel pressure regulator ignition coil coolant temp sensor batteries always charged good. car cranks just doesn't seem to want to fire up. spray starter fluid into throttle body but seems I still have no spark. When it died the dd thing I saw was the coolant temp gauge rocked back and forth and would stay on H. disconnected battery and it no longer does that. I have a OBD2 scanner but it does not find any error codes??? Only thing I can think of is the MAF sensor and ECM. I spray starter fluid into throttle body turn key and it just cranks but doesn't burn any of the spray which leads me to believe there is no spark. If one of the sensors failed after replacing them would the timing have to be reset?

GLWS!

Sorry I just came back home. I'll write what is on the info sheet. The HF Charger is a group of advanced battery charger designed specifically for high performance 12V, 14V, or 16V sealed lead acid batteries. These chargers combine the reliability of High Frequency MOSFET rectified assembly with an advanced microprocessor control board to create a battery charger that can rapidly and safely recharge 12V, 14V and 16V maintenance free,deep cycle,gel cell, and AGM batteries in several sizes. Three stage Charging At the heart of the technology in all HF Chargers is the three distinct charging stages. During the first stage, called "bulk" charging, the current is fixed and the voltage is allowed to float. During this stage, 80% of the battery's capacity is restored. When the battery's cell voltage is up to the correct level, the second stage called "Absorption" charging is engaged. During this stage the voltage is fixed and the current is allowed to float. The battery is brought up to 100% during this stage and the cells are equalized. The third stage is "Float" charging. During this stage the voltage and current are reduced to a level that will maintain the battery indefinitely. Several microprocessors are used to tightly control the entire process. This is the same technique that battery manufacturers recommend and use in the production of new batteries and it is the fastest and safest technique for battery charging. Compatible With Most Lead acid Batteries Including AGM Lead acid batteries have different charging requirements based on their specific design. Overcharging will reduce the life of any battery as sealed valve regulated batteries are especially sensitive to high charging voltages and overcharging. Overcharging an AGM or gell cell battery will cause permanent damage. Voltage Monitoring The battery's terminal voltage is measured every five minutes by the on board microprocessors and this information is analyzed in addition to the elapsed time to dynamically control the battery charger for optimum charging performance. Automatic Computer Analysis/Auto Shutdown The microprocessors will analyze the battery when connected. If the battery's voltage is below 4V the charger may not recognize the battery is connected and will not begin charging. Likewise, if the battery will not come up to the correct voltage in a ten hour period the microprocessor control board will automatically shut the charger off. Internal Cooling Fan A cooling fan automatically operates during charging to keep the circuit and other internal components at a constant safe temperature. The absorption and max output voltage are locked at 14.4v and floats at 13.8v DC.

Just received this in the mail. My initial impressions of it is that it's a powerhouse in a compact case. I purchased this as a long term investment and I'm sure I made the right choice. The wiring as well as the unit itself is high quality. As for myself I will be mounting it on a piece of MDF about the same footprint size of it just to take care of it a little more. I have some batteries that need charging so I'll get back to that later. Thanks XSpower for making a badass charger!!!! This last one is for anyone that has or been around a battery tender plus. The HP1215 a little longer but it is a stronger charger overall. If anyone on the fence about this charger just get it, you will be glad you did.

EPIC WIN! That charger look really nice too.

charge it from the get go. Alternator not a battery charger.

Fanaticz hit a good one on the belt did you get a new one? Were you able to use the O.E size belt? Last year Eric helped me find the proper belt size I needed for everything to work right. It was a good wrestle but helped my slip.

link http://smartercharger.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Multi-US-3300_us.pdf from what I see on the instructions yes the snow flake sign would be used.

I don't really know about that charger but its always good to put the batteries on a charger even if it looks like its sitting at a good voltage. Mechman actually recommends to fully charge batteries before you install the alt. Follow charger instructions or if you haven't bought it yet I would at least recommend the battery tender plus brand charger, it has a rather low charge in amperage (1.5amps) but I had my multimeter on the battery throughout charging and it never went past the 14v range that is important so you dont gas the batteries. I know you have been having a rough time hope you get things straightened out. I read Nathan said even if it would take awhile to charge that would be fine. Another thing I read was if your fine with over night depending on how much the batteries are low. Some people will say if the batteries are sitting fine when you get them just use them but I started charging them out of the box.

Thanks for your help. I'm thinking about smashing and burning the two way remote as it is going out, the screen doesn't show things right and the battery is old in it. I still have the one way that comes with it for the time being.

I'll take a look at the spots the installer used to make connections. Now another question for 5901 owners or people with experience with it. right now your alarm is armed, say you to the car or just the window of your house and push the arm button on remote again how many chirps do you hear? I get two spaced apart. I know I can take it to have them tinker with it but I'm trying to rule out anything my dumbass could have done lol v

Sorry guys just got home from work. This was installed last year at bestbuy. a month after that I cut the loop to increase the warn away chirp as I use the motion sensor and it was installed firing down. I'm starting to wonder if this car is getting long in the tooth. I had to pull the car horn fuse because if you pushed on the button just to sound the horn it would sound like a dieing horn whimpering out. Since the 5901 is linked with the car horn say the full alarm trips it sounds lower than usual and with a whimpering horn along with it lol. As for the ground it would be where ever the installer put it at best buy.

As the title reads I been noticing that the siren doesn't sound as loud as it used to. My batteries are charged good also. I really don't think this is normal.