SPLadd1ct

Any links to where you saw this?

I think so too haha, thats the only sensible way I can think of to do a wall in my car and still be legal!

Thats what im thinking....

Would this sound good for daily?

so all the cube vans, pickups with campers, semi-trucks, and anything which has no rear window at all is illegal? might want to tell them their law is broken. edit i'm all for a plexi/carbonate wall though, that would be badass Sorru I forgot to state it was illegal for cars to not be able to see out the back. And the whole wall wouldn't be plexi just a window in the back to see out of.

What are crappy results? what equipment were you using? I know of 2 designs that are killer in that car. It seems like everything I do gets shitty responses up front (not that loud to the ear). If you have a design please share! thanks haha

I'm sick of getting crappy results from enclosures in my 2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT, so I wanna say F it and do a wall, but I want to keep everything legal. In my state of Pennsylvania it is illegal to not be able out the back of the vehicle. So I am thinking about running a horizontal port across the top and putting a nice slab of 12"H x 36"W 1" plexiglass on the back so I can see out behind me. Does this realistic? I just want to be loud! I wanna do two dc audio m2 xl 18's when they come out. Let me know what you think people!

Who all runs them and whats your opinions? I'm thinking about running them in my Tiburon for a future build.

Oops I could have sworn I put that up there....it's an Alpine CDA-9886

So I set all my Alpine CDA-9886 h/u equalization functions (bass,treble, etc) flat, except for my subwoofer level, which I left 15/15. I removed the subwoofer connection to the amplifier and turn down the gain all the way, the lpf all the way up, infrasonic all the way down, and bass boost down on the amplifier. I turned on the DD-1, inserted the positive (red) lead into the speaker positive (+) on the amplifier and then clamped the black (-) lead to my amplifier ground. I started the 40 hz 0 db tone and start rolling the volume knob up until I saw a distortion light, but none came on (very odd to me), but the DD-1 must be correct, so I continued with setting my amplifier gain. I let the 40 hertz 0 db tone play at 35/35 volume on the h/u and started to turn the gain up, the distortion light appeared at probably 25% on the gain. Why is there no distortion at 35/35 on my h/u? This surprises me, am I doing something incorrect? Thanks fellas!

I have an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit (4v pre-outs), Sundown 4500D, and an IA Warden 12. I am stoked to be distortion free for christmas!!] Thanks Steve for a great product

I don't know how you didn't find it using google, it took me about 10 seconds.... Here's the URL: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/38593-saz-2500d-pre-sale-open/ Just scroll down a little

I vote plan A I wonder how long PA is from KY, because I want a demo of that bish!!!!

I know but I missed it

You should also do a sale on damplifier pro!!

I have approximately 10-11 NET cubes to work with, I would like to run two 18's. I know the TC sounds lms ultra 18 requires 4.5 cubes to work optimally. I would love to purchase these but don't wanna spend $1800 in subs..... Are there any other 18's out there that require similar airspace to the LMS utra 18's? The vehicle is a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT. For power there is a Sundown 4500D at 0.5 ohms. Please don't recommend me going with 8, 10, 12, or 15's instead, I want to run two 18's. Thanks!

I am thinking about six TC sounds Epic 12's and a Crown XLS 2000 for the low frequency stuff (:

I was on that website looking at the TC sounds drivers...I was unaware they had some read on speaker builds. Thanks Zayres (:

Right now I am thinking about four TC sounds epic 12's or maybe a LMS Ultra 5400 to play around with maybe on around 1000 watts rms for both set ups? I have two XS D3100's for power supply if that would help in a HT set up? I really have no idea how this stuff works, lol.

Are there any websites/forums you recommend?

I have been into car audio for about two years now and although I absolutely love it, I need to take a step back for a little bit... I decided to play around with some home theater stuff for the time being until a less busy time of my life. So as of now I don't know the first damned thing about home theater systems.... I was looking at some nice pioneer audio/video receivers to get started, but beyond that I don't know anything about amplifiers, electrical support for the amplifiers, and enclosure design. Can someone give me a little crash course in this stuff or point me in the right direction for some good resources I can go to? Any help would be appreciated, thank you

Use Kano Kroil for soaking stuff that has a lot of residual build up on it...It's also great for freeing up frozen parts. It's a penetrating oil. Check it out!

What's up SMD. I started out here on SMD when I was a total newbie. I hardly ever posted, but instead read up on a bunch of the threads that were on here. From when I joined til now I have obtained a ton of car audio knowledge, but have made the realization I have just scratched the surface on knowing everything in car audio (: I will be a member here on SMD til I know everything about car audio, which will be for a very long time

That's a bad practice, don't do that Cranking the bass boost induces clipping.

OFC is oxygen free copper. Having air pockets in wire generates heat. Heat = wasted energy. It would also lower the wire's current carrying capacity. This is also related to the reason its widely suggested you either use hydraulic crimpers or solder your connection. CCA is copper clad aluminium. Aluminium isn't as effective a conductor as copper. But aluminium is cheaper and lighter, so people use it. The strand count means you have a bunch of fine wires instead of a few thick ones. Makes the wire more flexible. oh well what whats the abbrivation for the official wire gauge. or is that only with welding and home electrical? i think it was awg or something. and im guessing the ofc copper is higher quality than regular copper? as for the crimping or soldering i don't think I'll ave to put any terminals on this install i think everything is set screws and what not. im not sure how the db link battery terminal works though. if it's set screws also or compression ring or what The official wire gauge abbreviation is AWG, which stands for American Wire Gauge.