RooTxBeeR

What do you mean by 10x?

Would it be possible to run 3 2 channels amps, and control the X over through each amp, so you can give each speaker a resonable amount that would power it well. ie, a 150 watt amp on the 8" a 100 on the 4" and a 50 on the tweeters. Then set the Xover on the amps to control what they play?

get 4 T1000.1bdCP's, will tear that shit up

Well I don't think it really matters if it's frowned upon, even SM himself uses bass knobs on his system, and I have seen in many systems on here do. Normal bass boost on the amps I know is a no no, but a controlled variable bass boost is a lot different then a set boost. I also don't know how that would work since I am just trying to use the built in stuff in the RF amps.

I am going to be running all RF for my power for my system, I want to get a bass knob for my amp that will be running my bass. My question is, what would be best, the PEQ bass knob or the PPB1. The PEQ is the single knob bass knob preset to a 45Hz bass boost and the PPB1 has 2 knobs, one is the gain and the other is a variable knob for 35-70Hz range. My box tuning will be 32Hz so would I be best off with getting the PPB1 and setting it at 35Hz? I don't have any experience with bass knobs so looking for everyones experience and suggestions on which to get.

Lol ya it does haha!! ^^

You don't have to, when I did this to mine I did and I seen a bit of improvement to bass to the ear, don't know about the actual numbers. When you switch them, just listen to some music and then switch it and see which you want, it doesn't really matter. All that does is just flip the Terminals so its neg to pos and vise versa instead of it being normal.

They should move the same amount of air, the only thing that will really happen is your tuning would drop. As for how much, I do not know, you will need to make the calculations of your box without any woofer displacement to figure that out.

You dont need to change the speaker terminals unless you are running one inverted one normal so they stay in phase of eachother.

It will affect your tuning regardless of how your box is made because it in turn changes some type of displacement. If it's a ported box it won't have to much of an effect on cooling, although I think they would get less, because if they where in a box they get a lot of air movement. If it's in a sealed box they would get cooled better because they are outside the box and exposed to actual air then the same air pressure and heat or cold gain from the surrounding temperature inside of the box.

They would play exactly the same as before, but you would have a higher gross volume to your box since you will be taking out the displacement of the subwoofers. I have a Civic Hatchback, in my previous box I ran both my 10's inverted and it was great, now with my current box I have 1 normal and 1 inverted.

I think for the lows the 18's would do good, if your going to a 30 or 32hz tuning, although the 12's would still do good at 32 but better at a 35 hz tuning. And if you get the 18's they should be able to handle a T2500.bdCP. I think I'd go with the 12's for the fact that there is more and would look so much nicer in the sense of woofer porn.

T2500bdCP

Take out the light housing, and put some weather stripping around the edges that come in contact with your car?

nothing, turn it off, set gains, then once they are set put it at where you want the filters set to.

^^ that's one of the things I like about RF. They may be a mainstreamed product but they are definatly worth all of what you buy. I would choose the RF personaly, but from what I have heard people say both are great in reliability and both put out great power.

Yeah me to! I've planning my system for almost a year now. I'm actually hoping to order my new HU and 0 gauge today. I didn't want to get a new radio until the stock one broke.... So I shot it with a BB gun. Lol thats funny as shit with the BB gun. My HU USB port and cd player don't work, Neither do the LED's behind all the buttons, So I went back to using a aux cable for my Ipod.

x2 I am not that big of a nuthugger of RF gear, but I do love them!

This is funny as shit, in reality I have a well done system that has lots of time and research into it, and for me only having 100 watts of power for my 2 10's, slams super hard for only what I have.

Love seeing the "want it to be loud as possible, with good SQ to"

K, that I can understand lol. I was thinking of a more reasonable set up, that someone did on their own time, like most 1-4 sub setups from 8-18 in woofers.

I dont think i have ever seen a sealed box do a hairtrick.

Yeah if your going to put more power in, make sure you can if your having problems like this with lower power, also by any chance you know what Amperage your new alternator are at?

You need bigger power cables if your running that high of power I believe. Do the big 3 upgrade and ditch the cap, if needed get a newer alt and that will cover everything. DC audio has great subs and under that price, look for a representative on the site for pricing. And custom boxes will always play your music the best, I would say in personal experience tune to 32 Hz, and for a hatch, I have always noticed subs up seems to do best, I also have my port up to.

One thing I can suggest that will always help is the big 3 upgrade. I don't know to much about eletrcical otherwise so hopefully someone else can help you out.