toadking90

my brutus 1700 which is ran off of 0 from battery to bus bar 4 from that to amp and amp ground from the bus into frame with 2/0. the amp is tuned with a dd1 but i can play it hard for an hour. have the subs smelly bad and the amp is hardly warm at all. get a better ground. might help a lot.

You can always cut it up and put it where it needs to go. That pic looking down? Is the plastic that's kinda loose what you are talking about mostly?

out of curiosity, what did the battery test @ when you hooked it up? and did you see what it dropped to when you tried to start it? thats what i found odd. it read on the meter good... i never had a chance to see what it dropped to when i tried starting it cause i was inside trying to start it... but yeah thats the odd part about it

little update. went outside and tried again just out of curiosity... nothing... hooked jumper cables up and everything worked. just not enough juice to start her up. so got to be the battery. as soon as i took it off it went to doing nothing again... so if thats all it is ill keep it. i did want a gt but my wife has never drove anything more powerful than an explorer so i didn't want her to kinda loose it... be bad... and also for the tad bit of gas mileage

^this... i love the look of this color... car there is the car... and my wife liked it which is a plus so we both were good... i am getting a new car so i dont have to keep driving my 98 ford so it can rest... the idea is to not buy parts...

the positive is super clean and tight... the negative has a dust of corrosion on it but i took it off and dusted that off... didnt help

its not even getting that far. the cluster and radio should all turn on when i put it in the on position... the dome light does but then i press brake and it goes out. headlights dont turn on... nothing...

so i am only 21. went today with my wife to sign for a 06 mustang. first new car for me. in my name and everything i was pumped... it was a great color in perfect condition. everything looked good... test drove it heard an odd noise coming from back. we took it back they said the muffler had come loose somehow and that they fixed it. ok that's cool. finish signing everything. noticed when i went to leave that the window didn't roll back up after shutting. but i knew they can forget how to work and to just reset it later... i drive home pull in drive way turn it off run inside to tinkle. came back out. now car wont start...really... my luck is absolutely horrible... never have good things happen to me so when i was told i could drive off with this car at 0 down and still able to afford payments thought i struck gold... when i put the key in and turn to the on position the little airbag picture flashes and i hear lots of clicking like you would if the battery was dead... hooked volt meter to it... tested good... talked to their manager and he said he will send a tow truck Monday to pick it up... any ideas would be nice but as of right now. come Monday i am going to be at the show room floor to tell them to void my crap off they are getting the car back... FML...

We tried to help u out Jon. Lol But I agree Jon is the efin man along with second skin!!!

Sorry for the late response time, been busy today. 1. The main reasoning behind using deadener is to get rid of the strutter-bornce noise found inside vehicles. This noise comes from a multitude of sources, including the engine, transmission, road and tire, exhaust, etc.. You get rid of these vibrations (which causes the noise) you create a much quieter and better listening environment. 2. Depends on the vehicle and goal. The vibration mats and liquids are used to control panel resonance/vibrations but won't actually stop or block air-borne sound/noise which can be caused by exhaust, road, and tire noise, as well as wind. For this type of noise, use of an actual barrier is needed, something like mass loaded vinyl. 3. Just like several other members have said, there is no need to go balls out and do 100% coverage. 25% is really all that is needed. Doors are my first area to treat, followed by the floor, and roof. In a truck I would do the back wall right after doing the doors. And thank you guys for the awesome input, makes my job just that much easier! Damn you get paid to surf the forums all day? SWEEET. ...on the side did the Singapore distributor contact you guys for some alpha damp pro? Not sure if he can be trusted yet and I need the things now. Feel free to PM to prevent further thread jack He does lots more than just forum surf. Lol email and see. He is all over the place

well. you could get some spectrum and spray the bottom if it makes you feel any better. lol that would help. but a pack of alpha damp would be nice to put on back wall and all doors. you do not have to do 100 percent coverage by any means. one pack of alpha will make a world of a difference. the roof should be made strong on that new of a truck but i could be wrong. it couldnt hurt though to throw a couple sheets up there if you have any to spare. a seperate pack of damp pro door pack would make a perfect team. just depends on how far you want to go. have you ever watched this vid?

the stuff is real nice. and alpha damp would be the route to go with. apply maybe 50-80% covered and you will be good. how big of a build are you doing? whats your budget for sound deadener? but the back wall, roof, doors. you know anywhere metal is more open than say your floor unless you have the extra green

i got a door pack of damp pro and it covered three doors and the back wall of my truck. covering about 60 percent of each. so id say that. if you dont want to just buy a pack of alpha damp then that would be a good idea. but yeah first priority is to find the rattle. lol it may be something that needs to be fixed.

matching subs? have you thought about matching it all? here is some that if you order two sets you can hit your 2 ohm load

i have a similar setup in my truck. i have two t3 15s however but in a 55x18x18 box with subs up and i have maybe 4 inches from box to the seat so its nice. but as far as subs go... with 1400ish watts if you want to push 4 subs they will be small as you know... why dont you just want to do a couple bigger subs?

that would be a cool reason not to go to school. lol grats( stay inside though)

that is a nice order. like those stickers as well

just remember that you do not have to cover 100 percent of the metal. on the doors you can do a few stripes of damp inside the door and like the outer ring of the outside of the door with some in the middle would work for the doors. so that saves you a good deal already. now for the rest you could just do maybe 50-75 percent on the rest of the metal. the roof you can do 50. and remember that flex is not from lack of damp its due to lack of brace which is up to you to fix. more damp wont help with flex.

Casted my vote! and also another bump for this. lets get these votes in!!!

Ok. I understand that now. I had the wrong idea from the beginning about gains then. Never just turned them all the way up before. But now I get it. Thanks for all the responses. I couldn't have been the only one wanting to know.

If you used the same subs and amp ran them say 8 ohms the gain would more likely be set higher verses running them at 2 or 1. Or do I have just the wrong idea completely?

So I guess I wasn't the only one thinking about this then. Cause there is no way the gain is set at the same spot with different ohm loads on some amps

Ok. I will do that when I get the chance. Thanks for all the inputs.

AutoZone does it for free So do this first then?

No. Return hose connect to the bottom hose on the radiator