Derrick824

Port it!

As far as which sounds better, thats more of a matter of opinion. IMO a big ported box thats tuned low (30-32hz) sounds best. Some others like small sealed "punchy" enclosures. As far as which is better for spl, then without a doubt ported.

The remote wire hardly uses any current. Your 6amp switch is fine.

With four dvc 4ohm subs that'll put him at 0.5ohms mono on an amp only rated to 2ohms mono. He'll need to wire a pair of subs on each channel for 1ohm stereo.

Put the switch on your remote wire and mount it anywhere you want. Do not install a switch on your main power wire.

Something I do with smaller boxes is to offset the sides inward a 1/4", fold the carpet around the lip, then cut a single square to fill in the sides. It works well and looks great.

The box wasn't all the way against the back. It was narrow enough to put it against the seats with them reclined just behind the B pillar and leave room to breathe between the box and back of the cab. Out of the possiblilities we tried thats what metered best for us.

Some more facts. Besides a 50% increase in cone area and a 30% incease in power, The BLs have 50% more xmax (21mm) compared to the HX2s (14mm). The BLs have a higher sensitivity at 92.6db compared to the HX2s 88db and the BLs have a much higher power rating (I read 1700rms for a loaded BL) than the HX2s (500watts rms) so they'll be capable of using the power better. I'm thinking I could see a 2+db gain from the switch. Am I being optimistic?

Aero Ports http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=268-352

Thats why I like using aero ports. Its so easy to change em out & adjust the tuning.

Remember that Bass Race takes the average score played on music, not the peak played using a test tone. Your Bass Race score will be much lower than your Db Drag score. If your peak is 150db then you'll probably want to compete in the 130-139.9 class. The trick here is picking the right song, getting a good start, and controlling your volume corrently. It takes a lot of practice to get perfect.

If you're wanting to measure amplifier voltage then connect it directly to the positive terminal on the amp. I wouldn't worry about seeing an inaccurate reading running a wire back to the dash.

Yeah sub & port back. Never tried sub up port back that I recall. Tried sub & port forward, sub & port back, sub up port side, and sub back port side w/ sub & port back metering the best.

If you're the seller then they send you the money then you send them the item and no holding checks or MOs. Make sure the money is legit before you send out anything. If they don't trust you that much then sell to someone else.

In my experience w/ an ext cab F-150, pointing the sub forward metered the worst. Sub & port up did well but pointing back did the best. Side porting did the same as sub & port up.

I've been using RF HX2 12s for years and its about time I upgrade my subs. The goal is a 150+db daily driver and the FI BLs are looking really good. They will be powered by a pair of RF T1Ks. Currently I'm hitting mid 147s (consistently 147.4-147.6) w/ three HX2 12s @ 1.33ohms which equals 2200-2300watts from these amps. Could I realistically gain 2.5db going to a pair of FI BL 18s & running the amps @ 1ohm for a solid 3000watts? It'll be a 50% increase in cone area and a 30% increase in power not mentioning how much better the BLs are than the HX2s. So whats your opinions and please be brutally honest?

I don't see a fuse holder under your hood. Maybe its hidden?

Sometimes a jigsaw comes in handy to get into certain spots. I also use a compass a lot for drawing out circles and basically plotting out how I want everything layed out. How about a countersink for your srews? I'm not sure about everyone else but I like to use one.

I'd take the Kickers over the RF P3s.

Calm down, its just my opinion. Its like you're trying to prove me wrong or something. I'd take a pair of RF T1Ks over a Colossus. But thats just me.

I paid $337ea for my T1Ks from HDA. Thats about the same as a Colossus.

My '06 has a 160amp alt also. It was listed on the window sticker. The sorry thing about these newer trucks is that everything is computer controlled so be prepared for it to freak out on ya. I ended up having to add a second alt that wasn't connected to the ecu in order to stabilize my voltage.

That amp won't do a BTL any justice. Those amps are over-rated.

If it was me, I'd run a pair of RF T10001BDs.

The song "beatin down yo block" has a nice bass drop to it.