Derrick824

The Kicker CVX won the sealed part of the 12" challenge done by Realm of Excursion. Maybe two of those and the new Hifonics bxi2607D. It should power them nicely.

I wanna see an excursion vid.

in case you haven't seen it. http://www.termpro.com/tv/dbtvprep.asp?Pla...ering Subwoofer

Is this in a sealed box? Sounds good.

Just run one amp to each coil You don't need to strap them for that. Simply use the Master/Slave feature.

They can charge you up to $1096 here for violation of noise ordinance.

It looks like a kite. Maybe you can try that next. Tie a kite to your window and make it fly.

Wow?!? I'm curious how you calculated using such a large port area. FI only recommends 16in/cu ft and you're using near 30in/ft.

Great work. That port looks huge.

That looks like the "A Night At The Roxbury" soundtrack.

The UFC is required by the gaming commission to report the fighters salaries. Guys like Chuck Liddell and Randy Couture get paid $250,000 a fight + bonuses.

I recommend getting the older RF T15002 over the newer T1500-1bd. They will both work great but the older amps were more under-rated so you'll get more power and they are both similiarly priced.

Assuming this is a sub amp then the lpf/hpf switch needs to be set on lpf. Lpf = Low Pass Filter and hpf = High Pass Filter. These determine the frequency range that the amp will play. For sub amps this will be low frequencies and for front stage amps this will be high. The lpf knob sets the frequency of the cut-off slope. The amplifier will only play at the frequency and lower that this knob is set to. Setting your frequency is a matter of personal preference. Some people like higher bass in the 40hz range and some people like deep bass in the 30hz range. I like deep bass so I keep my low pass filters set on 32hz. If you're using a ported box then you would do good to set the cut-off frequency at the tuning of the box. Or simply listen to some music and adjust it to your own tastes.

I know how budgets are as my wife keeps me on an allowance with how much I can spend on my stereo, but trust me when I say the RF T30001bd will be worth saving a little extra for.

Jackson caught him just right with a right hook that sent Liddell to the ground and then pounced on him to finish it before he could recover. I hate that it ended so early. Neither fighter got a chance to demonstrate much skill. It was a lucky punch.

Do that and let us know how it works out.

Wire them like normal.

I'd go for a RF T30001bd.

It sounds like you don't understand impedance and wiring subs at all. Its all simple math really. When wiring voice coils in parallel, you take the impedance (ohms) and divide it by the number of coils wired together. For example; if you have a pair of 4ohm dvc subs wired in parallel then you'll take the impedance which is 4 ohms and divide it by the number of coils which 4. 4ohms divided by 4 coils = a 1ohm load. For a pair of 2ohm dvc subs wired in parallel it'll be 2ohms divide by 4 coils = 0.5ohms. For 1ohm dvc subs in parallel it'll be 1ohm divided by 4 coils = 0.25ohms. Wiring in series is the exact opposite. You'll multiply the impedance (in ohms) by the number of coils. For example; a 1ohm dvc sub wired in series will be 1ohm x 2 coils = 2ohms. For a 2ohm dvc sub it'll be 2ohms x 2 coils = 4ohms. For a 4ohm dvc sub it'll be 4ohms x 2 coils = 8ohms. This math applies the same to single voice coil subs. Wiring a pair of single 4ohm svc subs in parallel will be 4ohm divided by 2 coils = 2ohms. Wiring a pair of 4ohm svc subs in series will be 4ohms x 2 coils = 8ohms Now for the tricky part. You can wire multiple dvc subs in series-parallel configurations. For example; If you have a pair of 1ohm dvc subs then you can wire the 2 coils on each sub in series (1ohm x 2coils = 2ohms) which will give you a pair of 2ohm loads. Then you can wire that pair in parallel ( 2ohms divide by 2 loads = 1ohm) and you'll have a final impedance of 1ohm. With a pair of 4ohm dvc subs you'll wire the coils on each sub in series ( 4ohms x 2 coils = 8ohms) then wire each load in parallel ( 8ohms divide by 2 loads = 4ohms) for a final impedance of 4ohms. You're restricted here by your amplifier's capability. Some amplifiers are capable of running at 1ohm and some can only handle 4ohms. You should wire your subs in the proper configuration to meet your amplifiers capability. Its also good to think ahead when purchasing new equipment. Make sure that you buy an amplifier capable of running at the impedance your sub's coils will be wired to or make sure you buy subs with a coil configuration that can be wired to the capability of your amplifier. For example; don't buy a pair of 2ohm dvc subs when your amplifier can only handle a 4ohm load. 2ohm dvc subs can only be wired for 0.5ohm (all coils in parallel), 2ohms (coils in a series-parallel configuration), or 8ohms (all coils in series). None of these will work well with a 4ohm amplifier. Hope this helps.

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Thats the same process used to set the gains on an amplifier except you typically know what your desired output is ahead of time. Just for reference, every T10001bd birthsheet I've seen has been in the 1500watt range.

I bought both of mine from HDA also. They look mint and work perfect. You'd never know they were refurbed. I have seen a buddy's T10001bd go into protect but only when we tried to wire up four dual 4ohm subs to it at a 0.5ohm load.

In series as in take the negative from one to the positive of the other. Like putting batteries into a flashlight.

I've seen some guys use a 6v and 8v battery run in series for a constant 14volts. The same thing with a pair of 8v batts in series for 16v.

Thats weird. I'm running my T10001bd @ 0.67ohms (three 4ohm dvc subs w/ all coils paralleled) and it pounds hard all day. Must have something to do with box rise.