audiofanaticz

switched them twice already he said.

Well then... Unless theres not enough power on the remote to turn the amp on which is doubtful. The only other thing it could be is the headunit preout is bad. You could check all battery connections to make sure they are tight and theres no coriossion. You could also jump the remote wire directly to the constant power on the amp (if amp plays fine your problem is the remote, if it acts the same then the remote wire is not the problem). If its a pioneer headunit, or even another brand, try grounding out the rca cables.

Looking good with the build!! To the other pics of that other camery..... This is the most crappiest wrap job I have ever seen! Lol

Did you try a different rca output off the headunit like a front or rear? Just to test that its not the sub output channel. Also is your subwoofer volume turned up on the headunit? did the rca jacks in the amp come unsoldered or break the joints on the board? Does the amp work fine in another enviorment(different vehicle, or bench testings)?

More videos! Some may not be processed yet in HQ. The first 2 videos are more of info videos. You always here people saying how to set your amp gain(s) with a scope, tho many people dont have them or have access to them. I guess Im a little more fortunate So In the first video I show a scope, and what it does, and a clipped (square wave) signal. I also demonstrate how you should never trust your little clip lights on your bassknobs or amps because they only come on during hard clipping. I also dont think there are too many videos of a scope in use, so it maybe something interesting to watch, if not i fail Part 1 Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-cUhdHWoh4 Part 2 Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPDzkWsoXbI The next 3 videos are just bumping some remixed songs by bigpimpin on this site. Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY92GdHdFbk Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LguaOYYx84 Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhtljCwZMLA

Its nothing yet, but sounding very loud and somewhat painful to the ear Yea yea... Its on the todo list james... yea, it kinda sucks on some songs like "I put on" for example, the higher notes everyone else hits, I really dont hit, but those 2 low notes I hit, and hit them hard! As eminem would say... "Uh-oh Uh-oh, bitch3s hopping in my Tahoe Got one riding shotgun and no not one of them got gloves Now where’s the rubbers? Whose got the rubbers?"

Enjoy And direct link to video, it should be in HQ soon: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCd0Zlucq48

Its funny how small the 5kw is compaired to a rf 30001bd. Lol

yea, they worked after you edited them

well we cant, are they set to private? I bet they look something like these tho

the pics fail. Liar, you aint got no new amp!

Rms wattage on that sub is only around 300wrms, 350wrms tops. Other specs. Size 12" Peak Power Handling 600 Watt Frequency Response 20 Hz - 100 Hz Sensitivity 87.7 dB Enclosure Ported Top Mounting Depth 5.63 In. Mounting Diameter / Length 11.13 In.

I got a powerfull alternator for sale that should fit that car.. 200$ plus shipping.

straight to the window flex in the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgP28NhsJZQ#t=1m40s

I got some delco 2 ways with a tweeter!! and a grill if you count the fabric over the cones from the factory

depending on your selected options from fi when you ordered your sub there is a thing called universal, if this is selected the sub wont accept a different ohm coil.

try run the hp battery check. Go to start, help and support, and then troubleshooting tools, battery check. If it fails you get a new on (provided you are in warranty) If running XP you'll have to download the tool off the hp website, just search hp battery check. Batteries do over time degrade though, no matter which brand you use. Think the HP website shows a graph of time vs battery life.

maybe another shot battery? can you charge your battery or a spare battery with your charger when its not in the laptop? or is it just a basic power cord/charger.

I was thinking the same thing. With some nice sexy carbon fiber dustcaps that take up the whole entire cone

my two tower speakers (4 15's) and and a 12 inch powered sub (stock sub was replaced with a ghetto 12 inch 400 watt westcoast customs sub). Direct link, HQ should be avalible soon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgP28NhsJZQ Edit: forgot to add i got a lil front window flex

I think the standard pc fans are 80mm and 120mm in most cases. I want to say the power 10001bd is smaller then a common 80mm pc fan, but its very possible for the bigger rf power amps to run a bigger fan. Id have to open up amps to check to be certain tho. A computer fan would work if you found the right size, I know www.newegg.com (trusted online computer store) sells many many many sizes of fans, so you could get virturally any size needed. Just have to make sure you get a simple 2 wire (pos and neg) fan, and not a 3 wire (speed controlled) fan. I know companies like stinger sells fans that are 80mm and maybe a few other sizes, but your paying $10-$15 per fan when you can buy a fan from newegg.com with a higher airflow rate for $3 bucks. If I get time ill open my 10001bd up tonight to see fan size, but id have to wait to check the 20001bds because those are at my shop with a pile of shit on top. Lol

I was thinking the samething, looks like the installer threw out the directed's installation manual. LOL In general, thats a load of bs wires all over the place just packed into whatever space they can fit. Its a real shame!

im not sure if they run consistantly and just speed up when hot, but you can really hear them humming when the amp is hot. The fans remove pretty simple, just got to take the 4 or so screws off on the black panel with all your settings on it, then theres 2 or 3 screws on the top piece, and a plastic clip that holds in the plastic piece by the rca's. You have to pull the fuse too, and the black plastic underneath the fuse is just cliped in to the amps cover. Its pretty easy in all to do, but I wouldnt do it if the amp is under warranty because that will void it. If it is a dead fan, Im pretty sure I have one off a old 20001bd or 10001bd that is the same size if needed

First off, what ohm are you running the amp at? From my expierence with the Power series amps that Ive messed with the right side of the amp runs a tad hotter then the left side. The right side has the power supply on the pcb and this will cause extra heat. On many amps the power supply side runs hotter then the output section/side. As long as your not kicking thermal protect I dont think Id be too concerned with the heat, tho Id put my ear to the air vent holes on the top to listen for the fan(s) to make sure they are both working (theres one on each side of the amp in the middle of the pcb). When the amp gets heated up the fans really kick in and are easier to be heard. You may have to remove the beauty cover (2 screws) to access the air vent holes if not already off, and you could try running the amp without that on to see if the amp runs a bit cooler if its currently on.

more info? that is some pretty thin wire, and enough for like 4 channels on one cord depending how you wire it.