audiofanaticz

I agree with all but CIA Engineering. They are fucking hacks and then some. I had an amp fixed there, they fixed my blown mosfets by cutting out my old mosfets and soldering the new mosfets to the blown mosfets legs. They never took the PCB out of the amps heatsink to remove the old mosfet feet, and solder the new mosfets into the PCB directly. Db-r is a awsome company that does great quality work and have very fair prices. Ive never delt with them personally but all the review Ive read where A+, I also talked to him on the phone a few times about certain things. However depending on the season, they are packed full of repairs and warranty items. But almost everytime you call no matter how busy they are, someone will pick up the phone and give you whatever assistance you need. Ive use ARC or amp repair center a few times already now in the past year or so. Every time I received a fast turn around time on repaired amps (usally 2 weeks or less)! Free return shipping, and a 3 month warranty. Also almost everytime you call ARC, Scott will answer the phone, if no one answers and you leave a message you will get a return call the same day. Needless to say I will be dealing with ARC again soon to have them fix CIA Engineerings hack fix that lasted maybe a week.. Here is a pic of cia's repair job. You can notice the larger booger solder globs. Edit: I also want to add that CIA use to be a Hifonics and American Bass Authorized repair facility, and this is where your amp will end up at for repairs. However I heard from a team maxxsonics guy that they are no longer an authorized repair center when I talked to him at the shows. I also heard this from another amp repair company too. And Bob (the owner of) American Bass also says they dont use them anymore either.

The program costs $150..... I just offered to help out a known contributing smd member But when I got home from work I got 3 pms from users with very low post counts asking for it, and 6 different instant messages..... Lol

It dont matter the speed tho, in any point. Your brakes get hot, stock brakes are going to have to work harder to stop with the added wheel mass, when the stock brakes get hot they dont stop worth a damn. Your going to end up eating pads left and right. Im not saying you need to drop a grand on brakes, but You should get some sort of after market rotor that is at least slotted to help the heat dissapaite, and a better pad to take the temp and add better braking power. Ceramic pads are nice, and you can get a decent set for all 4 wheels for around 100$. You get expensive when you start running huge rotors, and calipers. My baer delcea (sp) rotors ran me about 150 per wheel (600$), then 88$ for Bendix ceramic pads on all wheels. I left my calipers stock. I ran these brakes for 2 years, and never had to change a pad, and no warpped rotters. There was a few times they saved me from cracking up my car. Not to mention no ugly brake dust on nice shinny wheels. As for the Banstick comment. If you wanna bann me go for it. Chances are Ill get unbanned pretty quick, and if not well hey theres always CA.com roflmao... But I think it be funny to be banned for being correct. Enough people cant stand me already because I provide correct info, and not false info, and I guess I type essays and not quick rubbish responses, but being hated for providing the correct info, and making diagrams or whatever to provide the novice guy that askes a question is my bad I guess....

Its going to make a huge difference... I went from stock 15 caddy wheels, to a 16 inch chrome spoke newer sts wheel, and didnt notice a thing. but then going to 16s to 20s, I noticed that I was changing stock pads every 2-4 months. And the op is talking about going from 22-24s... And then you say something about city driving That is totally wrong... City driving is more abusive or puts more wear on your brakes then highway driving because of the continuious stop and go driving (stoplights, stopsigns, traffic jams, etc). Ill argue back and forth with this all day long, because I know Im 110% right. And if you think otherwise your a tool. It dont matter if you got a big stereo, or no stereo. It will matter. PS: Did I just call an admin a tool?? j/p or am i?

If you got some sort of messaging program I can get you that on the low Bassbox pro is a speaker box design program that has multiple parmaters for many speakers, or you can enter them in yourself. my aim is: cpytrw yahoo is : lilpopimp82

ok then if rotating mass is the same thing as sitting in the car, and this other guy above says he notices slower acceleration, he would also notice slower braking, which he dont. The 2 things go hand in hand. Not to mention that your going to go thru stock brake pads left and right... Maybe you should look into this a bit more, and find out why all the real dogs are going out and spending $1000+ for these brake kits. It sure aint for looks. If you got to hit them brakes because some kid runs in front of your 3000+ pound suv with your 4 18s, and 4 t4k amps, and 7 power master batteries your going to hit that kid and come to a stop halfway down the block... (sorry for using meade for a refrence) but he did a compairison on video, and yet you still think stock brakes are fine. Maybe you should stick with some spinner hubcaps instead then you wont have to worry about affording the braking upgrades needed

Changing the height and width of the port almost always changes tuning, but not always. Say if your running a 40" by 5" port, with a 10" port depth, 200 square inches of port. and switch to a new port. Say 20" by 10" port, with a 10" port depth. your tuning will still be the same because you are still having 200 square inches of port. Now if you went with a port that is 35" by 10" with a port depth of 10 inches it will be a change in tuning because you now have 350 square inches of port. To figure out square inches of port you multiply port height by port width. IE: 20 times 10 = 200 -OR- 40 times 5 = 200. You should try to go for 12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot of space after displacement for 18" subs. 25 cubed box should range from 300-400 square inches of port.

Oh as for brakes. Try looking at www.jegs.com or www.summitracing.com (i think) http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv..._10155_-1_10139 Im not sure if your truck is 5 lug, or 6 lug (depends on 4x4 or not) Baer brakes are good, brembo brakes are good, and so are wilwood brakes. Your going to spend some cash on either of those 3, but the most on either wilwood or brembo. Almost every sort of race car you see, as well as lambos, farrei, mazzarati, porche etc all run brembo stock iirc, Also Brembo goes thru some crazy torture tests. as sure as others, but I like my brembos. brembo and wilwood are way better then baers however, and will make baers perform like stock compaired to others.

Not only will it take you longer to stop you will be putting your life at risk as well as other drivers. Here is meades compairison video of stock brakes, vs his new brakes. Where he went from 60mph locked them up with stock, then did the same with the new brakes. stock brakes took 107 feet to stop from 60mph locking them up with 26s Aftermarket brakes took 72 feet frp, 60mph Without locking the brakes up on 26s... BUT YEA, STOCK BRAKES ARE FINE NOOBS! LoL

Your vehicle will not stop fine when your rolling on 20" plus wheels. You should invest in a upgraded rotor for sure either cross drilled -or- slotted to help with better cooling. People say cross drilled and slotted rottors are weaker because there is less metal, but I rolled baer rotors on my caddy for a while and had no problems. Also a higher quality pad, like ceramic would be a wise idea. Ceramic pads do not wear as quick, stop better when they are hot vs a normal cold break pad (like how a dirty K&N filter will out perform a clean oem filter), and have virturally no brake dust with a ceramic pad. The rolling mass of a 20 inch rim vs a stock 16 or 17 inch rims is major, and now your talking about going to a 22 or 24.. Your looking at least 40-100 lbs of rolling mass your gaining with a big rim If you notice a difference in acceleration your going to notice a difference in braking. Thats like carrying a trailer packed full of shit, and saying "yea my truck is slower with a trailor but it brakes just fine". Im sorry that is not happening. All you people that are to broke to upgrade their brakes when you put the big rims on, go out to your car. go 65mph, and then lock up your brakes, dont slowly stop, lock them up as if your avoiding a accident and see how well you stop when your stock brakes are glowing red hot and warping while your hot brake pads dont slow you down and all you hear is grinding... I can tell you now that your car/truck/suv/moped or whatever your driving is going to fail, and will not act anything like normal.

Otherwise these are decent sets too http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartpa...ineprytools.htm

he got btl 18s iirc...

I dont know what kinda care you have, but I just assumed a camaro since it says in your signiture. I still think your best bet would to find a camaro in the junk yard with power locks, and gut the power lock wiring out of it (including the switches). This way you have factory wiring, with factory clips that plug into factor switches on a factory location of a factory door. It probolly make eferything easy having the pre made harness at your finger tips

again, what do you need switches for? Saying you need switches, but not saying for what makes me have to ask. are you using this as a door lock actuater or do you have something else in mind? Most the time, these are used for ease of use to replace a shot door lock auctator, I had one on both front doors of my caddy. If your looking to upgrade from manual door locks to power door locks this would also work. But I think your best bet would be finding lock/unlock buttons from a donar car at a scrap yard and stealing the whole power lock harness. Edit: switches galore. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksi...-All-Categories

what are you intending to use them for?

That would be a nice wall! Love the port!!

nice! Looks like them dc's are treating ya good!

heh, i didnt see that you where going to wall the rex. I wouldnt wall it. You can easily break 150s on a burp with 2 10s and 3000wrms no wall. imagine with 2 18s

I dont even know what you got for amps, and I dont really care. But you can find better brands out there before you buy some walmart grade audio gear.

nice subs! 150deebeez here you come with ease!

Old soundstream stuff is nice.. Newer stuff I wouldnt waste my money on. Just becuase they are using the same heatsink as their old refrence amps when soundstream was soundstream doesnt mean the guts are going to be the same as the older amps, or even the quality of the build.

nice looking box kent!

heh.. Its not bad for being owned by the same company that owns ferhinhite, lagacy, jensen, prymid, boss, lanzar, and pyle... Honestly youd be better off going with something else like hifonics.

Id also say its because its cold. You said you just got an oil change. New oil at a cold temp is going to be thicker then older used oil at the same temp because its all broke down. of coarse when the oil heats up it becomes even thinner, reducing your oil pressure. oil is rated in weight or viscosity. 5w 30 oil is 5 weight hot, 30 weight cold. 10w 30 oil is 10 weight hot, 30 weight cold. straight 50w is 50 weight hot or cold. etc It is wiser to run a 5w30 oil in winter, and something like 10w30 in summer. To much oil pressure can be a problem, but this is why your to let your vehicle warm up before driving. Off the top of my head my 99 hoe is about at 60ish when i start it cold, and drops down to around 20-25 at a idle, around 40 at driving about 25-35mph, and around 60-70 on the highway doing 65-80mph hope that helps a tad more.

nice setup I know Ihrcke, he competes here. cool guy