audiofanaticz

Lol i would be ashamed to post those pictures on the net... Lol. What did you use to heat the terminal up, a turbine from a jet? :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so:

meh, I just order crazy coil configurations on my subs so when I parallel them together Im well below 1 ohm and have room for impedance rise without losing tons of power. But its not always the safe way of doing it, esp if your amp is only 1 ohm stable and your nominal load is much lower then that. So if your running amps like RF this is not too good of an idea, but if your running amps that you can somewhat street beat at .5 ohms your golden

Yea, and now I got my maxx-link too, but am not putting it in, Im affraid id strap both amps to my 1 sub, and then crank it up which I dont want to do. I can easilly unload the one sub right now since theres so much air space. Playlist: Young jeezy - juice box Destinys Child - soldier - funkymix (slowed down) Gorilla Zoe - Do it Pantera - respect (i think its called) just had to show that I can beat rock like no other It was all american bass sq 6.2C's, but I blew one 6.5, so now its the american bass comonents with diamond hex drivers ( I got the rest of the hex component setup, but the hex crossovers did not like the ab tweets and one of the hex tweets is messed up and scratchy sounding) so just the ab tweets/crossovers, and diamond hex drivers. Now I got some american bass 5.25 coaxiles in the b billers also.

Windows xp product keys are made for that cd. I know on windows 98, 2000, me that as long as its a 98 product key for a 98 disc it will work. Tho now since vista dropped they dont care much about xp. I know I use to have to call in my activation becasue I used my product key to many times, now I dont have to call it in, and it activates right away with no errors.. All you can do is try I guess. you may get lucky with it. If it fails, call windows xp and request a new product key. They will ask you what the cd looks like and blah blah blah, just tell them it says win xp home eddition (or whatever addition it is) and tell them the cd is shinny with windows xp logos all over and what not. For some reason they alway asked me what my cd looked like.

You need a large load for testing alternators. If your testing a 300 amp alternator with a 100amp load, your gonna get a 100 amp test result. So Your gonna need to find a way to load your alt(s) down to at least 300 amps for testing a 300 amp alternator. Thats all Im saying.

What are you wanting to do with the amp? Are you gonna run it at its stable ohm load? I really dont see anything wrong with any of the amps you listed, they will all do the power and then some. So maybe go for what you can get a good deal on. All amps are proven to be reliable so I dont think there is no wrong choice Seen this on ebay a few days ago, price is still low. American bass 150.1 8 bids at $187.50, no reserve or buy it now it looks like, but only 16 hours left on the auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/American-Bass-VFL-150-...id=p3286.c0.m14 I can assure you that it will do well over 2000 watts. I run these and where I got my gain set currently is about 1/8 up. Im dont even got the gain to where it should be at (it should be higher) and its pushing around 2100 out of the amp with no bass boost either.

same, and micky. My nextdoor neighbor use to hate it, but came around when I bought the house and no longer a renter and fixed up misc crap, he was outside some nights watching the wall being built, and also got to hear it. Now my neighbors know Im a competitor, and every now and then I will test things, but its just a quick note, not no constant banging. Ive also got some neighbors that come over for things to get installed weather it just be some replacement door speakers, xm or sirus, or a new tape deck (yes tape deck). So with that it seems like my neighbor hood has respect for me, and in return I give them the same respect back, its a 2 way street.

Well theres your problem! Home depot!! I wont goto that store unless need be. Its either menards or the ace down the block for me. My part time boss that owns about 40 some rental properties in town (I help remodel them when people move out (tiles, carpet, painting, siding, windows etc) and do upkeep repairs when something breaks. Well anyways he ordered a lot of money worth of custom kitchen cabinets and they where delievered late, wrong color, wrong hardware, and wrong sizes and all that. Home depot claimed thos where the deminsions giving, when the work order clearly stated the correct size. They wouldnt refund the money so they got sued, he won. Now he is kicked out of our local store LOL and another law suit to follow that is going threw court now. This guy spends ruffly $400K a year if not more in supplies for his rental homes, this isnt the kind of person Id like to ban from my store or would want to take his business else where.

Run FOREST Run! :01nocomment8so:

Dunno.. I havent had any problems with mine yet, and i probolly took my subs in/out 4+ times, and my port comes out at every show for a higher tuning = more deebeez But then again the tnuts i used for my subs have 3 nice long prongs that grip deep into the wood.

Take this as you will. Ive had multiple problems once I put power to my subs. First problem was my custom rca's that I had custom made by magalowmanic. The solder job on them was crap and the center pin wire was grounding out, causing my amp to protect. Resoldered rca ends and problem solved, but then got a hook up on some old school Stinger King series rca cords. Triple shielded, really nice cables. Then after a week of bumping I had a coil on my subs unwind. Everytime the sub hit I heard a ting type sound. When I checked my voice coils on a dmm (digital multimeter the coils where reading from 0.9 to 2.6 (each coil should read a constant 1.4 ohms) This started to kick my amp into protect again. So with that being said DD will have my speaker today/friday for a recone. Sometimes just a rubbing coil maybe enough to fry a amp. I think you said your coils are dual 4 ohms. So if you got one coil jumping around on the ohms when you check it on a dmm, this could be your problem. You said you bought the amp from an autorized dealer which is good because you got that warranty but paying shipping back and forth does blow goats. Im affraid that kicker may get fed up with seeing the amp so many times and may charge you. Maybe they just replaced the capacitor, but I dont know for sure. Dont know if you ever had the cover off to read the serial number on the pc board but if that number changes that means they are giving you a new board in the same heatsink. This is one way to fix the problem. The other way is get 8 t- nuts and bold your speakers in. just make sure to get a bolt size that will fit thru your holes on the basket (around a 1/4 inch bolt by 1.5 inches long). The t nuts go on the inside of the box, and have metal prongs like teeth which grab into the wood. Then you can take your sub in/out as many times as needed without weakening the wood. Of coarse you will have to predrill the wood to the bolt size. I run these on my wall for my subs and port. Drilling new holes is a waste of time. You have a square speaker so you cant really turn it just a little bit and screw into fresh wood. The square subs have more cone area as a normal round sub, but if you take them out enough you run into the problem of screwing into the same holes over and over.

for the money they are decentish. Not the worst but far from the best. I know 2 people that ran these. My buddy had 2 15s in a half wall type deal of a 4 door grand am and 1 pa sl3400 amp. did a 144.1 burp Then his buddy ended up with the amp and one of the 15s 1 15 tuned to 40hz pushed by a PA sl3400. Did a 140.1 burp in a ford escort.. All scores db drag legal, car sealed up, mic on dash on a new termlab. hopefully that is a decent review for you.

those would make some good fail pics!

sig worthy! Lol I just took lots of amps apart, and made simple repairs on many amps in the past. Sometimes I learn the hard way (which seems to be the way to make you broke) but theres just small things that you may never think off.

Are you sure its not a whole new pc board? I know tons of people that fried kicker amps, and like i said they just take the old board out and put a new one in it. less time consuming, and cheaper. If it happened 3 times, i dont think its the amp. Its maybe how it is setup, if your blowing capacitors (i think c17-1mf is a capacitor), there maybe a problem with your amps power supply. otherwise you might have some bunk RCA cords ran in your car, maybe they are messing up somehow. What about your sub coils? Do they read fine and rest at one ohm, and not jump around when you read them on a dmm. If your coils dont hold a constant number your sub could be frying the amp. I just had that happen recently. Id really try some new rca cords since they are cheap and not hard to replace. Maybe find a better ground or make sure you have the best conductivity possible.

Im pretty sure that if it is from an autorized dealer and under warrenty when you send them a broken amp in, they reboard it. So its like getting a new amp everytime in the same heatsink. Same as how RF does their warrenty program. What ohm are the speaker coils, and how do you have them wired? Its only a 2 ohm stable amp, after a constant beating on the amp, for 20 minutes like your saying could blow it, esp if your electrical is not up to par (big 3, alt, rear battery). Seems like these amps are working fine for your 20-45 minute periods. What headunit you using? What is your gain set at? How many subs and coil configureation? Sounds like user error somewhere in here.

Is it a leafy green substance with flavor crystals? :01nocomment8so:

Yea I heard that like 8 years back or so, but I guess that is to be a thing of the past now. I got the same one here has a little metal rod that spins in circles to keep the corn rotating while popping. Then just use these kernals and this buttery oil and its just like movie theater popcorn. http://www.orville.com/products_kernalpop.jsp#products But you need to use this kinda salt. http://www.mortonsalt.com/products/foodsal...opcorn_salt.htm Theres something different with it compaired to regular salt. I find myself going to the movies, just for the popcorn at time! lol

It sucks, but part of life.. The school year in wisconsin hasnt even been in for a month. So far in milwaukee wisconsin schools, theres been 3 stabbings and one of the stabbings was after the school got metal detectors and beefed up security and it resulting in a death. Then there was a 4th or 5th grader being bullied at school, and the teachers, princable, consulers etc didnt do nothing so the kid brought his dads .38 to school, I think shots where fired but no injureys..

What does everyone like the best? I remember back in the days popsecret had those "single serving" bags, I think it may have been pop colors or something, each bag of popcorn had a different color butter on them. I use to eat lots of this back then, but dont think its made no more. Most of the time tho I get Trails End with extra butter. Its a Boyscout popcorn that they sell to make money for trips and what not, my friends mom is a den leader. Whenever I ran out of trails end and it was not the season I got Pop Weavers which I seem to only find at Wal Mart, but its the same stuff, packaged at the same place, just a different printing on the boxes. But last week I decided to get some Pop Secret extra butter and the stuff was not the same, It tasted like crap and couldnt taste the butter flavor or anything. So I went and got some Roundys brand popcorn (straight up cheap shit) and so far its the best microwave popcorn I ate so far!! I also tried other brands such as the orval redenbacher movie theater style, and yea far from movie style popcorn. Although if you buy the thing of popping corn, pop it in a popper using the orval redenbacher butter flavoring and then the fine popcorn salt it tastes like the real deal. But yet no matter what brand I try for microwave I cant find anything close to the real deal of the movie theater popcorn, even tho many companies market the movie theater stuff. What do you guys like, So I can have some ideas what else to try. It just needs to have lots of butter or extra butter.

wow that sucks!

Just loook at my avatar!!.. :01nocomment8so: :yahoo: :yahoo:

thanks for the link, i knew the new site was comming soon.. Nice to finally see specs on my amps. I guess that explains the reason Im getting the power i do with such a low gain setting The one subs kinda remind of some dd3500s, while the vfls I dont seem to care for at all.

What kind of check did you send him? Cashiers check? Personal check? If you sent a personal check, he maybe waiting for funds to clear, this could take up to 2 weeks depending on the bank. A lot of times banks wont actually give you the cash for a out of state/town personal check until the sellers bank clears the buyers bank account otherwise if the sellers bank cashes the check, and gives the seller the money and that check bounces when it hits the buyers bank, the sellers bank account is out of money. Also not to mention it takes only a minute to stop payment on a personal check, and no one will know until that check is recirulated back to the buyers bank. If that makes sense. Thus why when you see infomercials on tv or anything else that you pay by check you will be told it may take longer. So maybe the seller is just protecting himself by not shipping out til he sees that the check has cleared, or he maybe out both cash and audio gear.

LOL X2 what big p said