audiofanaticz

First video: Amp: Rockford fosgate t10001bd Sub: Digital Designs 9518 kevlar cone & cf dustcap Batteries: Redtop under hood, powermaster d3100 in the trunk Alt: 300amp iraggi w/ adjustable regulator Wire: 1/0 Rockford fosgate

link to video? I think I remember seeing it. and its dont by OSP Old school players. They have a few cd's out and they pretty much remake the songs same beats (but different notes, and singers). I got the song on cd

I feel you on that. Thats how my whole city is. I goto a bigger city, cops dont sweat me at all, banging right passed a cop and dont even look.

I wanted to find a shady doctor and get that medical exemption too. Cops are profiling me bad here, and Im not even dark. 50% all the way around which is beyond legal :mad:

Your problem is that your ecm (cars computer) is flipping out!!! I get my airbag light to come on all the time when Im showing off with excessive voltage, once i get around 16.3-4 going through my ecm. Id try disconnecting all your battery(s) then cranking your car to make sure your vehicle is fully drained on juice, then reconnect the battery(s). Unless your car was fine before with the 15 volts, but that be my best bet.

probolly does. I have no idea what happened to my manual :mad: The only other reason I can see for this is because you will have the cleanest and strongest voltage the closer you are to the headunit.

no no no!! no finding a new hobby.... This hobby makes me go broke and puts a smile on my face doing so :mad:

if its adjustable I really dont see the big deal of why it says it has to be mounted as near the headunit as possible, but if thats what the instructions say, you should probolly do it for best results

Id just get some 3M double sided sticky tape and use that to stick it up someplace. Otherwise if your stashing it in your dash someplace, zip tie it to something. I dont know if the Phoenix Golds are totally different, but Im guessing it does not have adjustable voltage for the output on it, that is maybe why its said to be used as close to the radio as possible because by the time the voltage is passed through the rca cords it will be a little weaker in signal strenth, where as if it was used close to your amp. That is just my guess since I couldnt find to much info on it, but I didnt see anything about it having adjustable voltage. My old audiocontrol line drive that I was messing with got mounted right by my amp, and connected with a 1 foot rca cable, but then again i was able to adjust the output voltage on it.

LOL Spam post count +1

did you put this deck in something else with the dd's? Because you said it was louder in the bronco. If you went from a bronco (small suv) to something with a trunk, or even a bigger suv it wont be as loud. More space to pressurize in a bigger suv, and in a trunk well you got to deal with practiclly no air flow (thus why its hard to break a 150 in a car).

man, who cares about being an advanced member... Thats easy to do Now you aint anything unless you belong to a "group" besides the member group :D :D :D All tho having that red moderator/admin group would be nice too have

Just sold Chode a Linedrive, and tossed in a free gift Very prompt with payment, and fast responses thru pm's Smooth transaction from the start! A+++ buyer, would sell to again

Thanks for the positive feedback bro! Glad I could help out. Brian

here is the stinger ones im running. they also make a 1 in and 4 out, but they dont accept 0 gauge wire, which is why I didnt buy the bigger one. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...id/0/rid/123284 then theres these http://www.nulime.com/4-Position-Agu-Fused...Display/p202085 the stinger shda4 http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...id/0/rid/123284

I have 2 stinger fuseblocks with volt and amperage readout. just 4-0 gauge in and outs. I mainly bought them for the amperage readout. It be nice to have a amperage gauge in eye sight tho. Only problem with monitoring amperage draw is that you need to pass the current through the wire(s) that hooks up to the display. So you would almost need something like a clamp meter that you could extend the wires to make it long enough to stretch from the rear to the front in site.

oh yea, but the DD amps have had problem with that high of voltage, and that .15 ohms and .5 volts wont make a 1000 watt difference I was just using that as an example since nismo seems to think that because the amps look the same and run the same boards means its the same quality.

I never said RF was the best, but the op is wanting to stay with rf, going from rf to crunch is a serious down grade. And looking inside a amp to see its guts means nothing. Can you personally tell a cheap mosfet from a nice mosfet? I know I couldnt until I had my one amp repaired by cia engeerning and found a bunch of $3.00 mosfets being used instead of the $8.00 mosfets, when both the mosfet numbers cross reference with each other, but yet the size is completly different... So why would one be cheaper and smaller then the orig? lol I was very dissappointed when I opened my amp up and removed the clips and found some mosfet legs being soldered back together.. Its kinda like saying, why do people drink soda from the real companies when they can by the cheap sams club cola version and save a buck or two. Yea you can pour the two colas in a glass side by side, and they may look the same, but they wont taste nothing alike! Same with all the amps you see on roe's ampguts with the uses the same board as such and such. The one big dd z2 amp for example. same board as the spl dynamics d7 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DD_Z2/ dd specs: 1.15 ohms = 7947W @ 17.5 volts SPL dynamics specs: http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/SPL_Dynamics_D7/ 1 x 8800W @ 1 ohm @ 18V - 2% THD Both them amps look almost idenical inside. But yet the spl dynamics is putting out almost 1000wrms then the dd, and can be ran at higher voltages. Does this mean the dd amp is junk? No. Does this mean that the spl amp is running higher grade parts? Most likely yes!

I am thinking that myself man... I thru it in there yesturday, and it was only a little louder then the rf I got in there. I think I was getting 2400 rms out of my spl, but I couldnt keep voltage up even with reving the car. Im thinking at least 6 batteries needed for both amps, because 2 will not do it. Now that I rewired things a bit different tho and the rf t10001bd is drawing around 140-160 amps at around 14 volts (not reving the car) No idea what its drawing when the car is in motion tho, but Im sure more. But lets say that 1krms amp is almost pushing 2k.... But damaging the battery was my biggest concern too! A foot can heal, and thats what I got insurance for. I guess my left foot is a little swollen and red compaired to my right foot. It tingles a little bit if I walk on it normally, but it really didnt bother me today at work at all. Just some crappy pics of the battery and foot (for those with a foot fetish) ahha I really need to buy a new digital camera *sigh* This is the corner that fell on my foot and the scratchs from the part that hit the cement, the battery didnt land flat on my foot it came down on a angle which is what kind of sucked. This is after i rolled it off my foot, the stickers got a lil messed up. Ill just have to stash this battery in the middle of the battery bank LOL my feet

Yea, I forgot to say in the Pm jextel that I am also running 2 sirens off the brain with no relay. Have had no problems yet and its been over a year since i added the 2nd siren

sticker is scratched a lil bit from where it rolled off my foot. No cracks and it still works so its all good.. my foot is still a bit sore, but all my toes move without any pain so Im not going to worry about it too much.

i took my shoe of a lil bit ago, and its not even red. I guess i got lucky. It hurts when i walk on it tho, maybe a lil swollen but I couldnt tell, the corner of the battery landed right on the top bone of your foot.

I decieded to put one of my amps in my back seat and try her out.. Still not enough power for the amps, with a 300 amp irragi alt, red top under the hood, pm d3100 in the trunk, and a d3100 in my back seat a foot away from the amp.. So Im in the process of putting the rf back in, and moving the other battery to the trunk with the other. Well it was sitting on my bumper and a moved the car a lil bit and guess what happen.... The d3100 slide right off the bumper/trunk to the ground. But luckly my foot was stragicly located to break its fall, or should I say to break my foot? It f**king hurts so bad.. I dont even want to take my socks and shoes off to look at my foot, I got to finish rewiring my car back up in 35 degree weather at night, with a sore foot... SCREW YOU POWERMASTER AND YOUR 80 POUND BATTERIES! :mad:

Who cares about retail... No one pays retail, and if you do your a fool! and really how can you people compair a 2000 watt rms amp, to amps that do 3000s watts rms? The aq wont even hit 3000 watts rms on 16 volts, unless your clipping it.. 1 ohm power 2200 x 1 1 ohm Power @ 16V @ 1% THD 2500 x 1 1 ohm Power @ 16V @ 10% THD 3400 x 1 2 ohm Linked Power @ 14.4V @ 1% THD 4400 x 1 Yea that will be a completly fair test..... good game! Just like the sundown 1500 vs the rf t10001bd... One puts out 1500wrms, and the other puts out 1000wrms. Sure the rf will do close to 1500rms, but you can get a easy 2100+wrms out of the sundown 1500. So why wasnt the sundown SAE-1000D used against the t10001bd??? Oh probolly cuz the rf would walk all over it! You want to talk about being a biased forum, Ill talk about these being biased tests. I have no reason not to believe that the crunch makes its power. Im sure it does, but It wont sound as clean as another amp. Put these amps on a scope and rta to test them, dont use your ear because what sounds good to one person will sound like ass to another.

It has nothing to really do with that nismo. Rockfords are proven quality, while maxxsonics (even the nicer hifonics line) is considered budget amps to me and many people, but crunch is down there with pyrmid, pyle, power acoustik. Its nice to see that they released a nicer amp under the crunch line, but under $500 for a amp that puts out its true wattage and is 16 volt stable is just too cheap, they had to have cheaped out on a lot of good parts. Which leads me to believe that it is pure dirty power. Id rather strap a bunch of optimus/radio shack amps together with a maxxlink then put a crunch amp in my car! and it would be 2000+ watts, since he is getting two ti30001bds. 1000+ per sub. That right there alone maybe enough to almost gain a extra DB or close to it