audiofanaticz

If you go with RE I know where some are for sale at a kinda cheap price. http://productions.soundmekanix.com/forums...topic.php?t=495 His aim s/n is: AnonymousMotors

If so, Ill take all the kinetiks if the price is right.

http://www.ciaengineering.com/index_files/Page718.htm Cia Engineering does outstanding work at cheap prices. I had 7 mosfets fried and it only costed me 90 bucks with shipping. They also tested my amp over the weekend at a .7 ohm load with no probloms.

That was a hard decision.. It ended in a tie for me so I flipped a coin and heads got it. My vote went to basshead

I dont think mine will take any fi... But I will try even tho two 18s will be overkill..... LOL My car is already bad with just one 12 and 3000rms. My sunroof dont lock fully tight no more, it will for a little bit, but pops back up, and my rear window moves pretty good too..

Thanks zaxfire. I remember reading some of the options on this forum someplace but couldnt find it right away. Looks like my back seat will be comming out permitting the new job :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

If I get this job that I have an interview for on wednesday morning, Im going to be starting a new build as soon as I get a paycheck or two. So Do I got enough airspace for two 18 inch dual 2 ohm Fi BTL's? My outside max dimensions are: 25"h x 25"d x 55"w So after calculating 1.5 inches off each dimension I would be left with: 23.5" x 23.5" x 53.5" Giving me 17.09 cubed internal volume, tuned to around 40hz. Another question I was wondering is on Fi's Site is: 1) Whats the difference between the daily and spl option? The price is the same each way, so I dont get why they want to know and what the difference in the sub will be, if any. 2) What is the difference between the universal option? 3) What is the HiXmCoil, that is pretty much just abreveated for high xmax coil correct or not? If not please answer this question too.

LOL groundpounder has a salvage yard full of cavy parts. He is ready for anything and everything that is comming his way I was watching something on tv once about windshield installers (think it was on fox news) and there where a few lawsuits going around because of window installers not properlly installing the front and rear windows. I guess some places use something that is more like a plumbers putty to install windows and peoples windows where just popping out for no reason. And they said that the companys are too use some approved caulk that is tar like. So just make sure you get the good glue used so it dont pop out again.

mistah fab - ghost ride it

See now were talking :lol:

That is the one has been working on. With all the really purdy glass work Next time lets see it completly pop out

lol nice. Whos tahoe?

Just screw the amp and cap to the box otherwise, then you wont have to see any wires. You dont really want them to be moving around the trunk all over. BTW, whats the little wooden box for with the switch????????

Went back under my dash today and was taking a peak again in the day light, and I noticed a lose scotch lok on my ignition wire for my alarm. The wire was just kind of dangling around inside it not doing much. So it was a quick and easy fix that costed me 3 bucks for some new scotch loks. It seems to be working fine, like it was. I had to stop and contemplate for a few seconds however to see if I wanted to put the annoying door chime back in.. My answer to that was NOPE. LoL

Maybe someone with some mechanical knowledge may know more then me. Went out to my buddys salvage yard to help him out on a motor job that he was doing on the side for someone. It was in the 80s today and on my way out there I noticed that my a/c was not working. I kept getting a error message on my cluster display saying low free on or whatever, a/c compressor turned off. So we where going to charge it quick. Hooked up all the guages and once hooked up we noticed it was full and it wouldnt take no more freeon. Everytime I went to turn my a/c on, it would switch from auto to the economy setting which it would never do unless you actully pushed the economy button. Then I was scrolling through all my gauges on the display and it said I was charging at 0.0 volts. I turned my car off, hooked up a dmm and found out my battery was good. I started the car up and checked the dmm again and noticed that my alt was charging. Unhooked the batter, and the car stayed running. So I know its not my alt, or battery. Next thing I noticed is that my gas gauge is at E and on my other display it says my miles per gallon and my range (which is how far i can go on the gas in the tank) and it said LO, which means low or empty whatever... BUT here is the catch. On the other message display it still tells me how many gallons of gas I used and how many miles I put on the car with my trip odomitor. So Im going off of that now, and keeping track of how much gas I put in. And the last thing which drove me nuts the most was when I turned my headlights on, that chime that sounds when you turn your car off and leave your lights on and it goes beep beep beep beep. Or when you have your car running and your driverside door is open with the constant beep beep beep... That thing would not shut the hell up with the car on or off. Non stop when ever the parking and headlights where on. All this crap took a shit at once. I went out in the yard, and pulled the pcm (powertrain control module) and hooked it up too see if that was the problom and it wasnt. So then I thought maybe it was my ignition switch taking a dump and got all bagged out, but then realized if that was the case, it wouldnt be turning on all my other accessories. Because at first that made sense if its messed up and the car thinks its off when its not may explain the reason for the constant chime going off. I checked all fuses and relays also... I scanned my car on the snap on computer and it came up with no bad codes either. I dont know what to try for my next step. Altho I ripped apart under my dash on the driver side and pulled that damn door chime sensor out cuz there is no way that I am going to listen to that whenever I have my headlights on..... If anyone gots any ideas or suggustions let me know. I am completley baffled.

Dont be getting too cocky Its not my fault I only got 1 little 12 Altho Im starting to kind of scare myself now, wed morning I got a job interview at Est in Grafton for 2nd shift diecasting and a plant tour.. This job my result in my plans being followed through on... And most likely I may need a hand or two so Chris if your down some weekend once I get all the gear Ive been talkin to some soundmekanix spl design team members for a few lending hands but nothing promising so far..

you got time, im still doing mine yet

Yea, welcome noob I have family in Wausau, my mom is from wausau, my dad grew up in merrill and his parents still live there too. All of wisconsin peeps need to met up sometime at a comp and see who can take the braggin rights

If your making your box with removable ports and what not, and are going to use the higher tuned port for competitions, why only tune 10hz higher? Id go to at least 50hz for your competition port, and keep your daily driver port around 35hz..

Seems like their items with free shipping have a higher price tag then the other online sellers, which makes up for that FREE shipping cost.. Kinetik HC2400 for example woofersetc = $340.00 with free shipping. sonicelectronix = $290.00 + $50.00 shipping. Either way your paying the same price, but If its true with the shipping being slower, Id rather go through a company like sonic knowing that Ill get my gear faster. Ive been trying to hunt down the best prices on some hc2400s I need about 6 of them

All I know is that shit was slammin!! But that may just be the eight 12" american bass DX's off of two american bass 150.1s... Last I heard the subs in the car are for sale for $60 a piece. www.soundmekanix.com Is where they are forsale from, Ive been debating on them for a couple days now.

awesome! Thanks for the fast reply. I can sleep easily this morning now + Rep to you

Same song in both videos Thanks in advanced.

I think we got a winner! It seems like its hitting harder, the subs are moving more, and your getting a little more then 1100 watts or so.. Box looks kinda goofy tho, but how does it sound? Better then the old sealed???

Dito to both these things.... You got a warrenty, make the damn sub worth the money you spent on it. Get a new one, and hook it up to the outlet again, and again, and again....