audiofanaticz

Oh and there is no db meter called a term pro.... Its called a Term-lab.... termpro is just the name of the site.... LOL

I think he is lying. The best I could do out of my tahoe with a good chunk of testing is a 153.8db @33hz(db drag legal, with a certified score of a 153db due to woofer failure). And this was with 2 Sundown SAZ-4500s wired at .5, 2 Ascendant Audio Mayhem with dual 1 ohm flatwound coils, 3 DC Power 270 alts, 7 runs of power and ground wire. Your talking about a 14db gain from moving the stereo from one vehicle to another....

If i remember correctly those are just the allen bolts used when the subwoofer is shipped in its original packaging. You could use them to mount it if you want, and could use tnuts. Id personally just use Spaxx screws to mount the woofers, never had a problem with that method.

Well a single mic Term-Lab meter is $650US which is $459Euro, So how are they cheaper here? Im pretty sure international shipping rates are not more then the meters price to cost $1000Euro. $1000Euro is like $1,414US....

Why do you need the specs of someone elses box? Figure stuff out on your own, this way you will actually learn a thing or two! Theres so many calculators on the net to do the math for you if you need it.

nice!!

Steves box is not built for the SMD subs, it is built for the old triple stacked btls, then the single slug btls where put in there, and now the smds. The smd 18s subs call for 4 to 7 cubed per sub which is not really that much smaller compared to the mayhem 18 that calls for 5-8 cubed. I had mayhems in a box up to 9.5 per sub already without issues. Again using 12-16 square inches of port per cubed. I suggest lots of port 15-16 sq inches per cube and 6-7 cubed per sub if your running 3000rms or less to the woofer. Running anything less then 14 sq inches of port per cube on a 18 is really limiting the woofers ability to get loud.

It is a public forum, as well as your public photobucket, if you dont want people looking, make the account private. From what we where told these where recently redone, hence why I checked the date on the pictures from your PUBLIC photobucket and posted them in this PUBLIC forum where I also posted my PUBLIC review to see who was being the dishonest one. But from looking at the details on the photos taken, I know that you are not the one lying saying they are recently reconed, it was the seller which I also PMed on caco, without a response.

Call me ken. Ill pm you my number.

Also, my box peaks at 33hz, tuning is in the 27hz range, and can play very very low, and high. hence the 4 burps i did where at a higher freq due to the door being open. I have a very flat response.

How am I non stop internet stalking you? LOL Because you came into the SMD chat I was in, or because I am posting on your thread that you started? Or was it viewing your public photobucket album? Please define me being a stalker? The cone you used, and resko1 used are idenical, resko1 The cones resko1 used say rockford in green pencil on the cone, Only 1 cone says it. I dont know if you put it there, or he did or what. He said the cones came from you. I am not asking for Warranty, or even free parts. This was just a review which I thought was the pros and cons of each sub I used and blew and decided to tear apart

Both Ken and Tavis did a horrible glue job. However the reason I chosed Tavis aka Resko1 is due to the fact that these woofers lasted longer they took a couple burps, 2 bassrace runs, and some demo time, and a slightly louder bass race score about a db difference. He also only rated his speakers for 1200-1500rms each, which imo his rms rating was a bit more realistic.

If you watched the video that is 18minutes long, you will see I was implying that your triple joint glue job was horrible, as well as the spider landing (which your pictures dont show). the spiders that came right off the former from a poor glue joint. Also If you watched that video, you will see that I said you did a nice job under the dust caps, as well I was happy to see you used all 6 bolts to attach the basket to the motor, unlike the subs resko1 built. I gave PROS and CONS of both of you. For someone that brags about building speakers for over 20 years for massive companies I would expect a professional looking glue joint. Hell these are not even my woofers, I was giving these to use, before the new owner got to use them, and I blew them. Partially to do because of the spiders that came off the former, partially because I dont believe these are actually rated for 1800rms each like I was told they are. Which means I over powered the hell out of them. If these woofers where actually built to be 1800rms each, or even 1000rms each with quality glue joints, they would not have failed. The 1000wrms bl 15s took the same amp, same settings for over a week! And so did the previous mayhems I had in there (but are rated at a much higher wattage). Also, Why did you use a vented former, only to glue the spiders over the vents on the former????

Here is the full video of the teardown of the woofers pictured in your photobucket. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyAezfgJ74Q Here are the 6 pictures from your photobucket. Here are a few pics i took of the woofers you built 10minutes ago after I pulled them apart. for some reason the shockers are very discolored.

It is the first pictured woofer that looks like them. 2 of them, with shocker symbols on the dust caps. You might want to look at my review here. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/109427-foreverbumpn-and-resko1-rebuilt-woofers-reviewed-blown-and-tore-apart/ And also check the other 2 videos. Also the original guy that sold the pair of woofers on caco said. My vehicle is not spl oriented like you claim. It is a low end monster peaking at 33hz. With a pair of woofers that are rated for 1800rms each there shouldnt of been any problems. After all a pair of Fi BL 15s with no options besides flatwound coils have no issue in the box being used with 18inch spacers to fit the holes, and they are only rated for 1000rms each. Im not trying to get money out of you or anything like that. I just did an unbiased review. And I know you built those woofers since you used the same Rockford cones that Resko1 did (which he got from you). I searched your photobucket for any pics for a name and date, but had no luck. Tho I did download the 6 pictures of these subs, and looked at the photo properties which said the photos 5/8/2010 with a CoolPix L16 v1.1 , not the "over or atleast 2 years ago as you stated". http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz35/audiofanaticz2/picturesdate.jpg PS: I end a lot of my videos with "Hate on Haterz", Just a little FYI.

man i seen this on the news the other night.. pretty fucked up.. What about all those games in arcades that give out tickets for playing them too? I guess they should be sued too! Or what about the fairs or carnevals that have them bulldozer games where you drop cones in, and that bulldozer pushed the cones forward to the drop where you win more cones, or prices they have inside. Yup they should be sued too then... Hell even them lame games where you toss a ping pong ball into a goldfish bull and if you make it in you win a fish. Yup another lawsuit. Some people nowadays!

I also want to add a couple more things. aH rating of a group 31 to a lithium cannot really be compared, due to they are way 2 different batteries using 2 different forms of technologies. More then likely that of the lithium may be higher, but then again depending on what kind of group 31 you are using may come close to that lithium or equal. Nor are CCA or CA amps really used in car audio since these are ratings from the early years when cars didnt turn over so easy and you had to sit and crank the engine for a while, Id be more interested in the max amp levels the batteries can discharge. The higher resting voltage you speak of with the lithium is not higher at all if you are talking 13.2 high. A well maintained agm battery should have no problem resting at the same voltages if not higher! Again this will vary from brand to brand. As for not having room for more batteries. You can always step to a 16volt battery which are smaller in size then a group 31, slightly cheaper then a group 31 in most cases, and you can charge them at 18volts, again as I said in my last post going with a well built real 300+amp alternator will help drastically too! The 16 volts charging at 18volts will make give your amps more power, and the smaller size makes them easy to put anywhere. 2 16volts can more then likely fit in the same spot as 1 group 31. Not to mention if your driving a car, you can probably fit 3-5 16volt batteries in the spare tire well in the trunk, stack a couple up on top of each other on the sides of your box, etc. Also depending on your vehicle, you maybe able to get a custom bracket cut to fit a 2nd alternator on your engine, possibly without sacrificing losing your A/C pump. Ive seen lots of gear packed in small cars. It just takes creativity and planning.

ok. thank you for finally explaining yourself in a way that makes sense now. However I still cant see droping over a grand for a battery when a $300-400 battery will do the same thing. Id rather take that 900 and buy 3 group 31s and have a even larger battery capacity. Or just keep the 1 group 31 and buy a nice high output DC Power alt, And yes I do think those alts are god all mighty

And Im trying to get a feel for what your asking since you keep contradicting yourself. What would be the need for a lighter weight higher amperage starter battery, that cant be charged by a normal charging system, nor a normal charger, or a agm charger. Do you drive a 10 second dragster that is only driven on the track that your goal is to strip every component that is not needed from the serpentine belt, and strip every ounce of weight from the car that is not needed? As you said in your first post using a lithium instead of having a group 31. Then you said in your edited post that these batteries would not be used for car audio, just to start your car. So why would you need a group 31 battery just to start your car??? Makes no sense. For that matter you can buy a Kinetik hc800 to start your car. You happy now I didn't say the all might XS POWER... Whoops I guess I just did... I say XS POWER so much maybe they will sponsor me... Oh and I sure hope your not trying to give me a lesson on batteries and electrical systems, because your knowledge, thought process and theory's are sounding wackier then a patient in a looney bin!

nice post edit.... I like how you changed what you said. You are massively contradicting yourself, and you must of realized that because you edited it. I knew I should of quoted your text.. lmao

whats the point of using it for a starter battery? kinda pointless to drop that kind of money on a battery. And Im pretty sure XS Power has this technology on lock down compaired to other companies if there are any (not something I really go looking for), but im sure the other lithiums wont run off a alt, and the XS batteries will be the first. and besides, why would you initially use a group 31 for a starter battery if its not being used for car audio at all like you just said. Pointless.

If your talking about XS Power lithiums, then no! They are made for drag racing, where weight is critical as well as powerful batteries due to most drag cars not running alternators. The lithium batteries CAN NOT be used with an alternator (tho it is something XS is working on). The lithium batteries also must be charged with a special charger bought from XS and is also expensive.