audiofanaticz

You could, they would work too.

Honestly, yes. It will alter your port volume by a little bit. But being honest, the 2 or so hz it would change your ear wouldnt really notice much. You could just figure out the displacement of the wood, and make your port a tad wider to compensate it (you wouldnt have to change the length at all (except to get your width correct by the mouth of your port)). However, looking at your design, you have the outter ends of your front baffle connected from the side of your side panels. Id change that to mounting them over the side panels if that makes sense. So the front baffles would connect the same way as your port wall. Hard to tell in my blurry picture, but if you look close, you should see what i mean hopefully

pics of center bracing Im speaking off. Which will alter your port volume, but you can simply readjust it a little wider. 45s diagram sorry I had to delete all the measurements damn does your box look like my box cept for some 12s.

I agree, you need to shorten your depth on the port a good inch or so, then add it to the bend that is currently 5 inches long. Id also add 45s in the rear back corners like the triangle divider you got by your port. Then Id also brace the center of the port (where it says 4 inches wide) id run a piece of mdf thru it. With a center port like that, it really adds alot of bracing most people dont see. There is really no need to brace the rest of the box because it will do fine. I have a much bigger version of your box (17 cubed @ 29hz for 2 18s and 6000wrm) and theres no internal bracing and also no flex.

thats just how "off" the RE calculator is!! Ive built a few boxes with Expos calc, and all of them where A++++++ use it, learn it, love it!

Model Input Sensitivity Tested Voltage Power @ 4 ohm/ ch Power @ 1 ohm/ch Dimensions- cm Dimensions- Inches Shipping Weight The Z1: Z1................0.2V - 6V......................14.4.................750 W......................3000 W................61 L x 30 W x 6.6 H.....24 L x 11.75 W x 2.625 H...35 lbs The Z1A: Z1a..............0.2V - 8V......................14.4.................1250 W.....................5000 W...............68.5 L x 30.4 W x 7 H...27 L x 12 W x 2.76 H.........43 lbs I wouldnt buy a Z1 in new condition and never taken out of the box, let alone used condition. As for a Z1 doing 49XX watts at .7ohm on 12volts, I dont see happening, must of been a Z1a? Because the z1 only does 5krms on 16volts. Besides from the differences in wattage, there is a difference in weight and size. Just another way to tell them apart. As for a Z1B, there was rumors of replacing the z1a with the b, but I dont think it ever happended and became a z2 prior of DD having the z2lv and the z2hv http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/amparchive.asp Edit: Another easily way to tell the z1 and the z1a apart is the terminal cups for your power speaker wires. The z1 had black plastic terminals, while the z1a had gold plated terminals under clear plastic.

Lol he said fatkid~~ I wont have no beats for about 2 weeks, got both my subs at dd getting reconed and building a new box.

yup just make sure you get big enough ones. you can get them at a hardware store pretty cheap and then youll be sure to get the right size.

Lol You could use those, however I am against soldering or crimping the direct connects. I run DDs and have the same setup. I use to solder/crimp them, but now I just use a large wire nut (something you would use in house electrical, I twist them on tight, and then tape the hell out the wires. A copper wire on copper wire twisted tight and then locked in place with a wire nut is a great connection, solder wont help reduce anything but keep the wires secure. Reasoning behind this is because if you cut, strip, solder/crimp. Then you change designs or rewire for a lower impedance or any other reason, your going to cut, strip, solder/crimp again, and over and over. You will tend to lose wire over time, and your direct connects will get shorter and shorter... The terminals you linked in darvex will work too, but make sure you tape them up really good afterwords with electrical tape otherwise if they bump into each other they will cause a short.

dude im so close to where you at in two rivers, like 30-35 minutes it really not that far. So if your down for anything let me know! And Ktown, if you need help testing or whatever, I got a snap-on O-Scope. If you your of drinking age too maybe we can all hit up the titty bar in Rockwood called Stars. Ktown, just make it to sheboygan, and Ill drive the rest the way and pick up smokey. Hit me up 920.254.5651

The little bit is not going to matter at all, you can literately take your dmm directly to the speaker coil and test the ohms, then wire it up thru the bolts and wire, and see no change in ohms. There is not that much current going thru the bolts, I mean there is, but there is no heat so you dont have to worry about the carpet catching on fire. Stainless steel is the correct bolts/nuts/washers to use because it does not corrode like regular bolts or even copper (tho copper is a better conductor it does corrode and it costs a lot more) Not to mention finding said things may get kinda hard locally unless you order from the internet. Again on your impedance rise question, no this shouldnt effect it one bit as long as everything is tight and secure. Its no different really then using a speaker cup with push terminals or banana style plugs. You will be fine. Most your impedance rise will be box rise, and maybe if you run to small of a gauge of speaker wire and have it really long (longer then needed! Like 20feet of 16 gauge wire to hook the subs up when you only need 2feet). But be sure to at least use a quality 12 or 10 gauge speaker wire. Hope that answers everything for you! Edit: stay away from aluminum bolts just as I said above they will corrode!!

Im in sheboygan, 45minutes north of da mill.

There maybe a type r, type e, and type s in the works later tonight if I get bored again. actually got lots off woofers to mess with!!

A old power hx2 15 4 inch coil. I want to rebuild this thing, what size should I make it? A 10? or a 18? Anyways, onto todays adventures. A alpine type x torn apart. Nice black coils from being clipped to hell!! And video!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU2AlJvE9U4

I dont consider $50 being "bank" especially when you are getting very nice blueprints that are easy to follow, a design that has a 100% chance that it will perform absolutely well, and that you many other useful things such as a impedance curve and output sensitivity. The only downfall is that he is a busy guy with lots of other designs, so if you go this way its wise to place your order well ahead of time and maybe spend the extra $10 on rush order status which places your design ahead of the normal order process.

Rumors are just rumors, last time I checked the phone is exclusivly for at&t. If anything Id go and get the phone and switch to tmoble, their 3g is said to be better and larger vs att.

Very nice!! (borat voice) patently waiting for it to begin!! :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick:

Im still trying to figure out why the thread starter wants a DD9515, when he is looking for a 12 inch sub... :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so:

There are so many variables to consider with that, but to say that something is NOT TRUE is SO WRONG!! If you tune a 18 to 50hz, then have your two 15s tuned at 38hz there is a good chance for the 18 to be louder, not to mention the type of vehicle as well as said mods done to the electrical system. Really what your saying has no point! I can put a single 8inch sub in my buddies crx with 800wrms, and be louder then your 18... Its really all in the box design..

You also got to think of AudioQues company history, they have been making woofers long before Audioque was formed. The owner of AudioQue use to be the owner of Digital Designs but then sold DD to his son Jassa, while his pops went ahead and started up a new company. Lots of technology is shared between DD and AQ, I feel that AudioQue will be the next Digital Designs, just from how the company is growing. Theres even been times I thought of switching from DD to AQ just because the cheaper pricing without really sacrificing any customer service, or even quality and reliabilty! However, there is a simular storey with Fi/AA being that Scott use to work for RE Audio. However you cant go wrong with either company, they both provide excellent products not to mention service! I just remember how I started out with my first quality woofer it was a 12 inch DD9512, and then it just wasnt enough so I went and got a 2nd dd9515 and had my other 12 turned into a 15, then I reconed one into a 18, then a half year later my other 15 became a 18 and I walled my car. Bassheads are never happy and always want more bass! Most likely youll with get louder from the 2 15s and the 2200wrms vs the 1 18 and 2200wrms making you have a bigger smile on the face

I think youll be happier with the 2 aq 15s. They are a great product at a even greater price, not to mention the AQ can do everything the FI can do. I know several people using the AQ hd3 18s with 4000wrm on each sub. Just in the price difference alone between a btl 18 and a aq 15, you could almost get the aq 15, and a second matching aq 2200d. Then not only are you doubling your cone area, but your power and should get a nice gain on spl (a good 3-5 db's).

www.pwkdesigns.com

I got like 4800watts from the thing iirc. Wired at 1.5 ohms, rise up to 3ish ohms at a 35hz burp. 149.X. It was alright but my 2 3000wrms amps are way louder!! heres some videos at the show with numbers

Be very careful using that amp with little reserve power... Theres literately no companies that will fix it due to being big and having a crap ton of output mosfets. Any chance that its Caco Matts/bumping buicks old amp? shit be purdy in my tahoe!!

he has a lot!! Just a collection from the shop. http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w230/au...urrent=vid3.flv