audiofanaticz

Lol umm, I had it changed long long ago. almost a month prob. the wet dolphin is from your music page bro its the Wet Dolphin (Mega-S&C) version. what frequancys where used in the song? Lol the low not made the sub hop!!

LOLz

I got one at my shop and did some playing, then bought another after they seeemed legit. only complaint i got with them is they dont display voltage to long, its mostly amp draw, then flashes voltage for a second.. They where like $35 each. they except up to 1/0 gauge, and have removeable sleeves to run down to 4awg wire, and fuses up to 300amps. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 heres 1 in 2 out http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...SFV/30046/sret/ and 1 in 4 out http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=8643

^^magic smoke ftw!! Its always fun freeairing subs that you dont care about, or that already need to be reconed

they are very accurate when I tested them agaisnt a clamp meter last season, I was kinda susprised.

a e8 has almost no cooling compaired to a DD.

the sub is kinda messed up. if you listen at the end of the video... LOL but some of the noise is the air being pushed thru the venting. Put your subs on 2000watts free air and lets see how they sound

my battery die hard charger got overworked, and turned off on me so voltage started dropping, after the first 2 minutes or so. But enjoy

just wait. i got a killa one... I wanna see someone top me with a free air!! Just remember, I gots another amp to strap together LOL

So I got one video with a 10 inch sub in a ghetto box uploading now. and a bigger boredum video if anyone wants to see it which is better first video

all i figured out so far is its this site lol http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/

hahah yea. its called the bant section, you will see it very shortly

The screws really aint to important. It dont matter if the amp is grounded to the heatsink or not, since there is a external ground being connected directly to the amp. The screws hold the board tight from sliding and moving in the heatsink. Looks like some burned mosfets.

that one above is like the one i bought from the gas station.

hell yeahs! that would of been halarious. unfortunitly he is no where near that loud, and never will be.

If it is an authentic street glow neon, it maybe under warranty. I know the under body kits had a nice warranty on them if you bought the nicer kit, and as long as the external plexi tube was not broke they would cover it and replace it. You may try emailing them and see what they tell ya.

Id think he would have fun with it. I bought a little one from the gas station one time for $20, it was a lot of fun to play with. that one looks a bit nicer tho. Id have to say if he can play video games somewhat decently he should have a blast with it.

yea, she is a oldie.. It be something worth while bringing back to life and keep it laying around on a shelf for a rainy day tho I think thats before lanzar put out crap amps (until they made the opti's decent again).

lol.. but out of all honesty, i sneeked in his album before posting my guess. I consider it "riding the short yellow bus"... ha

you sir are wrong. Lol even the newer optidrives run the same layout board. but just look at the rest of his pics in PB. it will show you the top of it that says lanzar, it was a easy guess. haha

looks like a lanzar from the layout of the pcb

define cheap, and what you are looking for in a amp such as wattage and the ohm load you will be using it at.

I dont know what your using for a power source, but the problem maybe that your powersource does not have a high enough current to turn the amp on. Most likely that is not the case. If need be carry the amp out to your car, open the hood and try using the car battery for a better power source. If your having a problem with the amp, the best way to eliminate possibilites is to try and power the amp up with just the positive, negative, and remote connections. Leave the speaker and rca cords disconnected. Just a side not too, you should always connect the amps ground before the positive and remote. You can easily mess up an amp if not fry it by powering it up with no ground. Im saying this because you said "as soon as i touch the ground it goes into protect". When the power and remote are hooked up, and you have whatever you are using for a power source or even a car on with no ground, the amp will search for a ground and try to ground through whatever it can, if it fines no source for a ground it could fry or damage the amp beyond use. The SPL amps are pretty much garbage and low grade amps (worse then things like jensen, power acoustik) and rate along the lines of boss, pyrmid, pyle, etc. The build quality is not the greatest so anything little could jepordize the amps ability to function.

I have read your thread and the others, and am not bashing... but its getting sickening seeing a failure post from you about kicker ever 4-5 days. You seem to make post after post about how kicker sucks and everything else. I have not came out and said one time that it is user error, but what is user error is you not going and testing your gear, and then continue to play it making it worse and worse.. If Im so wrong Prove me wrong. Please do it. Get me to shut up. Actually Anyone that I have posted on.. Even the noob that fuses his ground wire! PROVE ME WRONG, and convince me that it is right to fuse the ground... ROFL. Im just noticing this big circle with everyone of your posts and people telling you what to do to eliminate your problems and you still fail to do them, which in return is making the once good gear even worse. But dont go saying that the kicker cant take 1600 watts, becuase theres tons of people running them, and putting more then that to them without failure. Some thing in your setup is wrong to keep having problem after problem. If it was me, Id rewire my whole car, Id try new RCA cords, pull my power wire out and ground, check it for any breaks and reinstall it with new ends, making sure everything is tight and up to par.