audiofanaticz

Randy, I seen you looking but no response. What is up with this?!?

If you watch the 3rd video I posted, right when the camera pans to the left, you see what looks like a stand rigged out of a dust pan about 10 or so feet away from the car to the left... Its a good distance away thats for sure!

Its from some other country but looks like a lot of work has gone into it!

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...665.html#000007 And I think I gots an idea of who has it!!! :01nocomment8so: Is their a reward?

Not really sure. most the times mods are not as reliable as a stock factory amp. modding your amp to disable the protection circuit is not too safe, one tiny wrong thing that would normally kick the protection on, would fry your amp making it not work til repairs are giving. I always wanted to try modding my rft10001bd. I think you could easily get more power out of this amp by adding 2 more mosfets and a capacitor. This is my old t10001bd. you can see where the 2 fets could be added along the top, and the capacitor on the bored where its all ready for a 2nd one. Then if you go and look at a newer t10001 bd, you will see that they have added a extra mosfet compaired to my rf amp, so that added mosfet must be doing something or it wouldnt of been added, and it looks like the extra capacitor could be added on this one. So if the company added the one extra mosfet to the amp, it must of been for some reason. So what would happened if the other one was added too along with a capacitor?

if you mod any phone weather it is motorola, sony ericson, lg, anything it voids the warenty. Its no different then modding a amp, it voids warenty. or evening opening up a amp which voids manufactures warrenty Warentys are there to not only protect the consumer from getting damaged goods, but also protecting the company.

And when you buy a phone from anywhere brand new without a contract your going to pay a lot for it vs going to a retail store, and signing a 1 or 2 year contract.

YOU FOCKER!!! Lol I was just gonna say the same thing So here is 3 right off the bat http://cgi.ebay.com/Apple-iPhone-3G-16GB-U...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/Apple-iPhone-8GB-2-0-2...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/Apple-iPhone-16GB-3G-W...id=p3286.c0.m14

yea, i dont see any companies offing the iphones but at&t. But if you where to buy a unlocked phone from ebay and the phone was the same mhz and cdma or gsm as the same service provider you choose to use you should have no problem getting it activated.. I know some companies will give you the runaround saying that you cant use such and such phone with our service but as long as its all the same it wont matter. Only thing that will not work would be some features if the provider dont offer them.

your at the wrong place man... I dont think anyone can tell you here the price of your cellphone planes or phones. every company charges a different price, every company have their own promotions. You could goto a at&t in your city, then goto a at&t in another state and notice 2 different prices on plans and phones. But I think at&t is the only place to get iphones, but if the phone is unlocked it can be used on any network for the most parts. Theres also a few different iphones if I remember correctly, so depending on the phone will change the price.

This guy knows whats up. my friend ran 4 15" ssd's this season with 2 sundown saz-1500 amps, peak freq was 32hz and box tuning was a little below that. It bassraced a 148 something in a trailblazer

If you have both meters ran side by side, yes you can. 9 out of 10 a/c mics are inaccurate, and the shops that use them dont properly know how to use them, and the shop could really care less. The way they see it, is if they can meter some kids stereo that they installed for him and that kid sees a 150db, he will be happy, possibly brag to his friends, and mayba have his friends come to the shop for new stereos. This is on a audiocontrol mic.. This shop use to hold many meca competitions, I did what they told me to do in their test. This shop has built a 170db vehicle, 3 15s, and 6 pdx1000.1 amps. They where at a car show in Greenbay, wi, when they found out there was a stereo comp at the show, they went back to manitowac, wi (about a 35 minute drive) got their insanely loud car that would whoop everyone, and couldnt break a 155 on the termlab, then completly bitched that the TL was inaccurate.. This mic is so accurate that I must of been so loud it didnt register!!

It depends on the organization you want to run in, some go by amount of speakers, some go by rms power, some go by brackets. I guess the best advice I can give you is to find another car audio forum to read up and post on to find people in your area, like termpro.com forums. Here is a competition locater on termpro for upcomming events. http://www.termpro.com/asp/eventlocator1.asp If you goto this link, it will break down the classes for dbdrag. http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/2008/section2.asp I know you could run ss 1-2, but with only 1krms you might get stomped but Im not sure, it all depends on your competitiors stereos and what not, either way you will get an idea of what your stereo does. hopefully that helps you out a little bit

dont only look for meters at a car audio shop, try to hunt down some serious competitors in your area. A lot of times major competiors (not just loud guys, but guys that goto every show to bassrace the 129.9 class) have their own meters for pratice. I know that everyone that goes and competes around me all seem to have their own TL, theres probolly 4 or 5 guys that dont, me being one of them

The word LEGAL means different things in every organization (db drag, usaci, meca, iasca). Pretty much all of those above organizations EXCEPT db drag LEGAL means in the kick panel and you can run doors/windows in any position you want to, and get a legal score in that organization. LEGAL in dbdrag/bassrace means car sealed up tight (windows and doors closed), no venting what so ever. Mic placement for db drag (if I remember right) is 11 inches left of the right b piller, and 6 inches up from the top of the dash. I mic'ed up a lot of cars helping out with out db drag promoter, but there is a special jig that is made for the exact postion in every car. Position of the mic can also effect your score if you turn the mic 90 degrees left or right from the normal way, this really only makes a different in extreme spl vehicles however. The audio control mic is just that, a microphone (like what you use for singing). If your tweets where really loud, you could easily do a 150db on tweets alone because it is metering the audible level, NOT the SOUND PRESSURE like the term lab meters. This is why many organizations are being pushed to move to a term lab (most already have, but I think iasca is still back in the ghetto days with the audiocontrol). No matter what the calibration is set to on a AC you can still alter other knobs that will alter your final score. The audiocontol meter is still a nice piece of gear to have but not for metering, just for the rta portion of it. But if you already have a termlab it is wiser to get the rta pak for the TL, then go out and buy a inaccurate audiocontrol. I was really close to breaking a 150db (it was a high 148 or a low 149) on a AC meter in the kick on music with my window open and a underpowered dd9518 in the trunk with a rf t10001bd. I was also told that it was a brand new mic only a few weeks old. After metering later the week on a termlab that was used in 2007 finals, i found out that it was only a 136.X db's

and on a termlab it would be a 124.X db NOT legal since the door or window appears to be open.

You dont need money to overclock your rig bro! Just as long as its not a prebuilt pc (dell, compaq, hp, gateway, etc) you can overclock it. You may need to flash your mobo bios, but like i said its free to oc Just make sure you monitor your temps for a while to make sure you dont run your processor to hot while under a full load. I oced on my stock pc for a long time, and just recently bought a new cpu cooler a few months back.

good luck

That is so wrong. Dont know about your sub, but if your underpowering it (800rms is not much) you can easily get away with playing below tuning. When your pushing serious power to your speakers and play a 20hz track, in a boxtuned for 35hz your going to trash your coils. Your sub is going to move farther then it should under higher power. making your voice coil possibly jump out of the gap or so far that the sub loses control and you start to have coils rubbing on the motor. Or your sub is going to bottom out.

no, the battery shouldnt matter since you said its a 4 channel amp, I dont antisipate the amp drawing to much current.. But yes, the remote wire is just a 12 volt switched positive. when the headunit comes on the circuit in the headunit sends a low amperage 12 volt signal through the remote wire to the amp telling the amp to turn on. So like I said, jumping the 12 volt and the remote wire together on the amp will turn the amp on if the amp is not fried, there is a solid good ground, and there is a 12 volt signal from the power wire comming from the front. If the amp turns on when you jump the wires it means 1 of 2 things. 1: the remote wire running from the headunit running to the amp is damaged. 2: the headunit remote turn on circuit is blown (sometimes they can blow pretty easy, by running to many amps off the headunit without a relay or not enough current to turn on multiple amps(like 4+ at one time), or if you accidently arch the remote wire on a grounding point when the headunit is on). If the remote circuit on the headunit is blown, and your headunit still plays it does not mean you can no longer run a amp off it. You can simply wire up the remote wire to the 12 volt switched in the radios wiring harness ( it is the red wire). The only downfall on it is if you turn your cd player off the amp will stay on until the car/ignition is turned off. Your other solution is to run a toggle switch on your remote wire, find a 12 volt positive source from your headunit (id recommend the ignition switched wire on your headunit again. The red one) and then splice off that wire to the switch, then run your remote on the other connector of the switch, then when you want the amp on or off you flip the switch. If you use the red ignition switched wire your amp will still turn off with the car no matter the position of the switch.

I think the hoe could handle that just fine. However.... I dont think that this website could handle all the connections and downloads, it got pretty slow with the topless hair trick

well if tested the remote, ground and positive power wire, and tried jumping a short piece of wire from the amps positive terminal to the amps remote terminal and the amp still didnt turn on and all fuses are good the amp is broke. By jumping the remote wire right off the power wire, you will be bypassing the remote turn on circuit in the headunit. So the headunit should have no say so in the matter. Other thing you can try is unplugging the rca cords from the amp, maybe the rca cables are faulty and shorting out.

LOL that is so true, Im not even gonna front!!! haha. Sub will proboly blow with in 5 minutes of use, ill be sure to peg the gain on the amp :01nocomment8so: And if thats not enough, I got a maxxlink sitting here that I can wire up to it too, which will give me bass boost since the turbo driven amp is lacking in it, and will be able to up the input voltage to 9 volts.. Lol DD sells the dustcaps for $50 a piece for the 6" caps, I got 2 here from past dd9500s. Maybe the stiffer cone will make the sub handle more, rofl.. I got it free from the junkyard so f**k it, might as well have some fun. Oh and theres some of the same subs, only 10s on ebay with buy it nows for $16.00 each ROFL Oh man, I remember those ils ratings.. Shit was funny way back when, and still is from time to time, but this TURBO driven pioneer > pyle It is sad, but its all a sales pitch, and to the uneducated car audio inthusiest or newb they dont know the difference, they just see the XXXX amount of watts and think damn this shit will be loud! I guess it falls under the saying of let the buyer beware.

Hard to give you any sort of advice with out knowing the amp brand and model, what speakers where being ran on the amp, what ohm load amp is being ran at, the headunit in the vehicle, the wiring upgrades etc... First thing I would check is any fuses in the car, such as the radio fuse in the cars fuse block, bad relay on remote wire (if relay is used), blown fuse or bad connection on main power wire, a proper ground (metal on metal contact with no paint inbetween). If all of the above is good, and you are positive you have power and ground, I would take a short piece of wire, and jump the b+ on the amp to the remote connection on the amp. If the amp powers up, you know you have something bad with your remote wire. It is possible that the headunit remote output fried, the wire could of gotten crimped, cut, or jammed somewhere in the car etc.

vids look great!