mbdblue

bump for awesome ampness!

it does indeed. but I cured it! I bet a lot of people would want to know how.... thanks anyway man (in fact I should probably still do this anyway) but I finally figured it out. I had to go into tools on firefox and change my network connection settings to auto-detect proxy settings. I still don't know how it changed though.

bump for money!!

bought this amp on CACO and never got to install it; but moneys getting tight and I don't have the resources to build right now. Im told it does 2900 watts @ 1 ohm underrated. It has undergone some minor repairs and I tested that it powered up soon as I recieved it. It has also been painted; I like the color combo, but it could use another couple coats. there are some scuffs and scratches on it. Id give it a 6.5/10 visually. Im looking for 300+ shipping for it, I ship UPS cuz there the only ones who haven't failed me yet. Not really interested in trades cuz I need the cash. please email me at [email protected] to get a faster response during the day.

I started getting a message this afternoon whenever I try to use the internet (mozilla, explorer doesn't matter) it tells me the proxy server is restricting the connection and to check it. No idea what that means, so I go through the motions I usually do when I have a virus/trojan (safemode, run malwarebytes, etc.) and it did find some things. but none of which fixed the problem. I haven't been messing with the firewall, connection, anything. I tried resetting the router but it didn't do anything either. Ive also been getting a pop-up recently that says flash.bp or some shit has been blocked because of unknown publisher and another pop-up occurs whenever I try and shutdown called rundll32.exe both of these have never happened before until the past couple days. Anyone know if these are all related and how I can fix it? Im typing this from my comp's Admin safemode (for some reason it works) and my roommate's laptop is picking up the same wireless connection Im using; his is just fine.

^nate's way of ranting I would have told the guy he's gotta bring it in. he doesn't like it, tough shit. theres some customers you just don't want. because you know if theres the tiniest bubble, the slightest imperfection; he'll be back. And you'll have to deal with him again, possibly free of charge. Not only that but your taking on the responsibility of driving his car...which gives him more reasons to bitch about something. I don't know man, theres just so much you can do for people.

power acoustiks no good IMO. Ive heard mofos can get loud but sound shitty doing it...

holy shit that seems so obvious. gonna have to remember that one

hahaha he shouldn't have done it but, bet that kid doesnt talk shit anymore. bignickk is right, maybe more parents should strangle there kids

I know this thread said it was for Ray or superjay, but Audiofanaticz is definitely right. I learn the same way (hands on), and Ill remember it for years once Ive done it a couple times. When I went off to school, I got a job at a local shop pretty much being there janitor. sweeping floors, taking out the trash, and doing real small simple installs. learned a decent amount there; including finding out I never want to do it as a full time job (which is always a possibility). also, working for a hack shop is not a waste of time. As long as you know its not the right way to do it, its still a learning experience. Just like everywhere else, you may have to do things that you don't understand or don't see as being useful, but you do them anyway because thats what they said to do.

you bought this amp without knowing the specs on it????

ah yes, I always wanted to condruct electricity! (@ :37 seconds)

Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue. I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything... capacitors do have a purpose, just sometimes in a system they cause problems...and are these actual readings you've taken? because you should never compare your own setup to somebody elses. just because you don't see that much voltage drop, doesn't mean he is doing something wrong. there is a whole lot of misinformation in this thread. and if I were OP, I would ask to have it locked up.

do yourself a favor and run the system without the cap to see what happens. take some more readings and see if it gets better. you don't want to go replacing things that don't need to be replaced. its just a matter of diagnosing the problem. if your seeing 14+ at idle with a boosted song playing, it sounds like your electrical is strong enough without any backup battery or capacitor.

does that apply to all insurance companies? and I wonder if its possibly just in your state...

I miss inventor...should be used a lot more than autocad IMO. but for your first time, that looks really good man.

come on now sounds like you have some testing to do. DDM at the battery, alternator, and amp. no voltage should be that low.

only thing I can think of other than whats been suggested, is building security.

depends on the kind of foam... and to the OP, research on the topic. there are tons of custom center consoles out there to give you ideas.

its got a big gay happy face on the front....just like the new mazdas. IMO, still a very feminine vehicle.

the amp was not mounted but i never really had a problem with it moving around too much ( the box kinda wedged it up againt the back seat) and besides i have good terminals on the end of the speaker wire so any positive to negative contact wasnt really too much of a concern. also since installing this is the first time ever disconnnecting the amp from power. i do agree the whole seatbelt thing is not the best but it did work flawlessly for 3 months. i never even had the gain more than 75%. i guess thats why i think its strange. i think the only thing that could have happened is something rolled around in the trunk and somehow bridged the positive and negative terminal or maybe its just bad luck. thanks for all the responces. i guess im off to buy a new amp. i wanna hear my 2 jl 12w0v3s ......new amp, mount it. turn down the gain. and triple check your wiring.

:rofl: that was great

the best way to solve the problem is to go out and do some testing. the worst possible thing you could do is start throwing money away by just buying components that "may" be the solution.

test the bat. if it drops too much replace it. but I wouldn't go with a red top. if your gonna drop that kind of cash, you mide as well go with XS power. sounds like the alternator doesnt need to be replaced. you really shouldn't be straining it all that much with 1000 watts. and longhair is correct, I couldnt see needing 20-30 feet of 0 gauge for the big 3. of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. test all grounds to make damn sure none of them came loose. if they did, it could be sending your amp into low voltage protect, not to mention heating up the wire. an easy way to tell if your bats dying is turning your headlights on before you start the car. start it, and if they dim real bad or turn completely off when cranking, your battery is the problem. getting an additional battery would be putting a band-aid on the problem instead of fixing it.

are you completely new to fiberglass? if so, I would say full door panels would be a challenging first project; unless your building pods that attach to the existing panel. in that case, it would be a good first. but its really up to you. Id work with interacting shapes for your designs. edit: this post would probably be better off in the fiberglass section of the forum.