Hifonicsmax1

Oh man, That's a downer. RIP indeed.

Very nice of you to support a friend. IMO help him by telling him to sell something better. Car doesn't have to be tall to run 4 15" L7s. Creativity is the game.

Any double din is a good choice. Buy the wiring harness and the adapter for it since it is a stock 2.2din. You said 6.5 as the top part of the door, its a 5x7 stock. I love my Jensen but they don't make the Jlink anymore and thats the only reason I bought it. Also, you may need to buy a radio adapter, I had to for mine. Though I still never listen to radio. It's just good to have automatic time update. The mustang also has 5x7 in the rear deck but if done right you can get a 6x9 to fit perfectly, just need self tapping screws (for simplicity). Also the stock 5x7's are very very shitty. Its like have a 4"mid and a .75" tweeter. I have mine laying around somewhere but big difference if you put a 6x8 in the door. IMO the Din is what your planing on doing. Keeping it stock, then I'd shoot for more Watts/channel. Planning on adding amps, then I like my 4V HUs. (I've not done any tests on this but IMO, the distance from a HU to a line driver is still able to get added "noise" if the voltage is low. So IMO even if you plan on using a line driver, 4v is better than 2v just like 2v is better than .9v) Use Ipod like crazy? get one that will cater to that. Want Navi, then well prepare for more $. I like my phones nav anyway though so instead get an android. GMaps FTW.

Looking good. Liking all the mustangs poping up with some audio. I do hope your fuel pump doesn't go out on you.

Is that a cardboard tube for the port?

Is a JL 13W7 for $150 a good deal? I looked at this thread as being for fun, so it shouldn't need to be complicated.

I got a kicker comp 10" brand new for $25 and a JBL amp for $25 and a prefabbed box for $35 making my moms system under $100 since I had the wiring and just spliced into the rear speakers for rca's. My current build doesn't have anything under $100 unless you include RCAs individually but when they are combined they are over $100 in just RCAs.

I suggest using WinISD. I find it to be easy to use, and free as well. It's used to tune to certain frequencies based upon the subwoofer specs and dimensions. It's not always the best for giving you a cookie cutter for your box but perfect for the dimensions. The rest is an art anyways and cookie cutters don't always look great.

It all depends on your budget. I prefer to use fiberglass and resin. Resin alone is very brittle and can crack easily, while with fiberglass the strands may crack under extreme circumstances but are very hard to still come apart.

Did you drill into the roof beams near the back and the sides?

Lookin good, but I'm curious why you chose to wire on the outside of the box vs inside the box. There's nothing wrong with the optoma batteries. The red top is still 50AH so it's still good. So its like adding 50amps to your alternator. V=IR & P=VI. Power=13V * 140 = 1820Watts so your system can handle 1820Watts if your alternator is 90Amps. (90amps+50AH=140)

You know, I have been in a car with peel and seal from home depot and in the heat of the summer in Florida, it did not smell at all. I have also picked up a roll and heated it up till it was like room temp butter with my heat gun and it still had no odor and well lets just say way way too sticky. I don't like to be so plain about information but a dampener is a dampener. It is mainly for the purpose or reducing high frequency noises from a surface. As long as you make sure you roll it on, I prefer to heat it up as well, then it will stay on your vehicle very nicely. I don't know how it does in winter seasons since Florida does not have any, but that might be where butyl comes in. To me the rest is hype.