nismo923

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Has anything new came along with this project? Worse comes to worse, give Twistedchild420 the idea and let it be part of his new clothing line.

Is there any updates on this shirt? I am more than ready to pick one up, just need to know when I can.

Still In Design stage.. But shouldnt be long be much longer.. Cool. Any idea on pricing at all? Or if it'll be possible to have different phrases on the back of it?

Is there an eta on these? Or is it still in the design stage?

For a stock M1 Level 3, there a few good options. American Bass XD1000, American Bass VFL 80.1, AudioQue 1200, AudioQue 750, Sundown 1200, or a DC 1.2K.

If we're throwing out brands to try, give Denon and Sennheiser a try. I love my Denon in-ears, and my Sennheiser on ears also sound amazing and very realistic.

I have heard them in my local Best Buy, and they don't sound bad. I feel like they have an added bass boost built into them though. Because of this I personally feel you don't get to hear how it was truly recorded. Don't get me wrong, they do sound pretty nice, just I personally would rather hear everything the way it was recorded, not the way Dr. Dre thinks everything should sound.

I personally use a pair of Sennheiser HD-205's every day. They produce clean clear mids, highs, and well defined bass. They have an overall great sound to them. They are not super bass heavy, but in a radio studio, that's not needed.

A much easier way of figuring out area of a circle is radius squared times 3.14

The car will be a daily driver. But, it'll also be competing its fair share. So I'm ok with input on tuning suggestions.

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I see that the general consensus is to run the Level 4's, but is the output difference enough to offset the cost difference between the two?

So I am torn between two Level 3 12's and two Level 4 12's. My question is, which would be louder and why? The amp would be an American Bass 100.1 and the box would be a ported box built to spec and tuned to the car's peek. So I guess the real question is, would the difference in motor force make that big of a difference?

I'll be there. Will be using a friends car though. I don't have the money to drive there or enter. But will be trying out the AS1 class.

If it were my personal car, I'd be more apt to cutting into it. But, like I said previously, it's a good friends fiancé's car. I doubt either of them would like a saw going to that car.

Lol. Alright. Well that's not going to happen. It's going in a good friend of mine's fiances car. I guess the box will have to lay on its back then.

Well I have a box that is 15.5" tall that I want to put in there. I'm just trying to figure out how to put it in there and keep some trunk space.

Thanks man. I was hoping for more height, but I guess i can try to make it work.

First thing you need to do is check out DC's web site and go to the contact/dealer page. Once you are there put in your zip and it will tell you if there is a DC rep in your state. If not there is a DC price request thread on here. All you need to do is put your zip and what you want and a DC rep on here will PM you a price.

Does anyone know the max height of this trunk? Specifically really close to the back seats.

Wiring diagrams would also be very helpful. Especially ones that will utilize parallel and series being used at the same time.

You could also go with some DC Level 3's. Stout little woofer.

I know the feeling. Mine is a Group 75 though. Still no direct fits.

Would it be possible doing it in two chambers totally sealed off from one another and on separate amps? Each amp matched to the sub they are driving?

If money isn't an issue at this point in time, why not upgrade electrical? That way when you get tired of your two 8's and the Kenwood, you'll be ready for some serious power.