jmilch

For that price range I would go aq 2.5, or with obsidians. Have you looked at Skar audio?

12s have a tad bit more surface area then a 15. i was looking for lots of air movement and lows A properly designed enclosure trumps surface area. Do some reading... 12's easily get as low as 15's now... My single 12" fools many people. If you sat for a demo, I'd put money on it most people think I have 2 x 15's or atleast 2 12's. It's currently just a Shrink 12" @ 3 ohms getting about 700 rms from my aq2200d. Now imagine what it will be like on my xl12.... My point is, proper enclosures and clean power trump cone area and quantity by far. And that's not even a arguement. I would suggest doing more research and not going purely off opinions. I've noticed you've made a few threads and gone back and forth. A little more research will go a long way.

Proper plugs last forever. I've had up to 6 plugs in a work truck tire. The tire was eventually replaced when it wore down, no plugs came loose!

You could go with a BL with your current amp. You may need to turn it back a bit, but you can do it. Don't be fooled, the BL's are damn loud. The new designs are really loud on the meter. A BL in a daily VS a BTL wouldnt be too much different. In a competition vehicle it would make a difference... I'd stick with the BL personally. Or go to a single BL 15"

What state are you in? **Ninj'd Dustin

Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask... Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power... It wont take 1K of dirty power. 4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator. Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit. What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking? Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option. As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option. If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option. Look up this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html thats the amp and what not so i have no idea if its strapable. do i not get the flatwind option? Flatwind improves the power handling. That would work fine, but you may need to hang back slightly on the power... I would get a D2 sub and wire down to 1 ohm, and be careful on the power. Or as suggested, upgrade to some of what CJ suggested. hmmm I should just get the BTL's and run em at their RMS power till i can get mega powerful amps. its only 200 bucks more and i dont need to get the Audio Q amps now. Please also keep in mind that I am getting 2 12's for a 2001 ford focus 4dr. would it be a better idea to just get a 15? If you were going 2 12's id run a single amp. You'd be surprised what one 12" BTL would sound like in a nice box...

Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask... Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power... It wont take 1K of dirty power. 4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator. Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit. What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking? Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option. As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option. If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option. Look up this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html thats the amp and what not so i have no idea if its strapable. do i not get the flatwind option? Flatwind improves the power handling. That would work fine, but you may need to hang back slightly on the power... I would get a D2 sub and wire down to 1 ohm, and be careful on the power. Or as suggested, upgrade to some of what CJ suggested.

Thats what we all said up top, but he asked, and I explained that in the thread. BL's can and do take 2k fully loaded on 4" coils, but again, with very solid and proper equipment. I wasnt wrong in suggesting it, but I do agree you have to have some experience to do it.

Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask... Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power... It wont take 1K of dirty power. 4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator. Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit. What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking? Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option. As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option. If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option.

Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask... Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power... It wont take 1K of dirty power. 4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator. Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit.

and when do people use the L in a port? to change the tuning of their box if it isn't deep enough? On most ported boxes to get correct port length with enough port area it can require L'ing the port. Basically just adding length to get desired tuning. ahh ok, thanks 727 and DC for the info, and if you have to add the L for extra length is it normally to tune lower or higher? or does it always depend on the type of box? The L is used to gain extra length. Torres calc automatically calculates the bend and gives you a "physical port length" that is adjusted, accounting for the additional volume in the bend area.

Incorrect. It is 3 common walls. Look at Torres post, he has examples.

If the port is using a 3 walls ie the top bottom and side, it is a 3 common wall port. Look it up, it is important to the tuning. And if I personally tune a bit lower, to around 31-32 hz, but thats just my .02

They make nice paperwights... But seriously, I would sell it and save up for a real amp.

I use 3/4" grade 8 bolts or larger for any xplodes I install. I of course just drill out the screw holes accordingly and use high strength loc tite to hold sony's in

^^This. When I was young and dumb pissing people off was the point. Now I do my numbers in the lane, or in non residential areas trying to keep the noise down.

It appears to be spongey.. Risks are it may be weak, and the moisture may have expanded it..

Yea that 0 meant alot this time lol. I was going to suggest about .15 for both combined.

Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask... Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power... It wont take 1K of dirty power.

LOL me too.

^^ This. Or use the search function. You will see 8's and 10's occassionally used as midbass drivers, but combining 10's with 15's and sending the same signal...

With all the options and the 4" coil... closer to 2K rms, but again like said, if you have to ask...

In reality, the rail voltage does matter. It's not a direct monitor of the audio signal, but it is a good indicator of what output is going to the speaker.

According to my TPI440, the AQ clip light is almost spot on.... Now I have a newer 2200d, real new. My older version did vary slightly. I would trust the clip light. Now are you goin to say my oscope is bad because its not a DD1? LOL the TPI was the thing TO HAVE here before the DD1. ... Don't listen to this person.. Don't trust the clip light, except if you have to. But it only detects clipping made by the amp.(by measuring rail voltage like decaf said.) DD1 is not a oscope, DD1 is better since it can detect distortion. The oscope is still good if you know how to use it, and a handheld one isn't the best option. I didn't say the dd1 sucked. I said in my experience, the oscope was close to the aq clip light. I understand how each is measuring different things. And the TPI is very decent, measured nearly the same as my old school bench scope.... The dd1 is an accurate way to measure distortion, but using the clip light still has a use. It's also very nice to monitor the music, as a lot of music has different recording qualities and properties. So even if you set the gain with a dd1, the clip light still has a very good purpose. And from what I read, crescendo is going WITH the clip light.

SOLD!