TheyDontWantMusic

it won't fry. there was a guy selling some amps locally, matched pair, till I asked to see some internal pics and he found three capacitors in the power supply had fallen off in one amp didn't effect its performance in any noticeable way. where the capacitor came off in your amp will effect it even less! however, to have a fairly small capacitor break off would suggest to me that maybe you need to rethink your mounting, is it mounted to the box?

its a capacitor. the amplifier will run perfectly fine without it, seeing as you said it was near the input. (and its still working) you just may have a bit more noise in the amp, or introduced back into the electrical system of the car.

if you spent the same money on AQ, you'd have one sub.

these are mounted.

nor did they.

don't do that, thats a great way to kill the alternator.

engine running, and above idle should be 13 - 15volts. engine not running should be 12 - 13volts.

do a 4th order.

that makes no sense at all coming from you it's no surprise you don't have a clue. no, it actually makes no sense... lol feel free to try and explain it though.

that makes no sense at all

lol, good one

I realize that, tweeters NEVER have an on and off axis setting written on them since they are intended to be setup ON AXIS (as i previously stated, means positive to positive, negative to negative) Now if you have it wired like that with a crossover that DOES have the axis setting switch, then you can switch it on the fly by flipping the switch. If you DIDNT you can simply reverse the wires on the tweeter so that the negative wire connects to the positive terminal on your tweeter. Re read what i posted before and try to understand it. please stop posting. now, as for on or off axis, you have to try it for yourself, see what way you like the sound of the tweeters the best, some people have them pointing at the front window to increase stage depth and width as well as to effect frequency response, others may have them facing at opposite side headrests, or even at the centre console. it all depends entirely on your gear, setup, and car, you may even end up with each tweeter facing very different directions if you're not overly concerned about SQ, I'd just be facing them at the opposite side headrests. changing the phase of the tweeters will effect the sound slightly, and effect the frequency response where the tweeter crosses over to the mid, but it has nothing to do with on or off axis.

this is why I run my amps at 0.5ohm daily seeing four times impedance rise is a pain!

no the enclosure needs to be the same size, but there are instances where you need to tune a fairly small enclosure fairly low, with a pretty big port, which won't fit in the enclosure. the Peerless XLS 12inch subwoofer for example. I'd put it in about 1.8cuft, tuned to 25Hz or lower, the problem is this means for a 4inch diameter port, it needs to be 28inches long.

it might be alright, depends on the price. if its $150 or less, its a reasonable price. be good to see inside it as well

I know that in my Aristo, if you connect the battery while the instrument cluster isn't plugged in, you'll get the air bag light on afterwards...

of course not, weren't even my subs. but the point is, if you're not clipping the amp, you're a lot less likely to kill the subs. I've run 2000+watts into a 200watt 10inch woofer, got rather smelly, but didn't die. clipping kills! numerous times I've seen people bring broken subs in, that were being run off an amp capable of the woofers rated power or less, and the voice coils are nice and crispy.

I've also played with some SEx 15's off the Z1.

yeah, cos I'm running my Z1 at 0.5ohm daily off a single D34 battery up front, and single positive and negative runs of 0ga cable to the rear. see, I actually speak from experience. and of course I've also burped the Z1 at 0.25ohm off a D34 and a 500cca lead acid battery in parallel.

the gain control is there for a reason. if anything, you're much more likely to kill the woofers wired at 2ohm, giving them a clipped 1000watts each, than you are wiring them at 0.5ohm, and giving them a clean potential 2000watts each.

you can never have too much power. if it were me, I'd be running it at half ohm daily.

I'm running 70 litres (2.5cuft) sealed, 210 litres (7.5cuft) tuned to 55Hz for four 12inch pioneers, and it somehow, magically, peaks at 36Hz... (144dB sealed up, nearly 147dB with a few windows open)

just disconnect the battery when you're not planning to use the truck for a while. I left my car for 9 months of so like this, reconnected the battery, and it started first go.

mmm... 1/4 ohm...

my alternator does basically zero current at idle. I would expect it to drop to 12.5volts at idle, its perfectly normal. if you want more current at idle, set your idle higher, 1000 - 1200RPM maybe