nickers

^god damn solicitors. whatchu wanna do is find a block with little visible wear on the machined surfaces, contact the person and inquire about head deck warpage, and cylinder bore taper/shape due to usage,if all else fails get a block and have it bored out. remember the way to find out what your cylinder will be after boring is Taper x 2, + 0.01"

raising your boost too much in a stock car will put alot of strain on your internal parts, and you could throw a rod. however, i would venture to say you could probably get away with 12psi with little effects of engine longevity intercoolers lower the temperature of air going into the combustion chamber, cold air is denser(more oxygen molecules) therefor you get more "air" into your combustion per power stroke, increasing efficiency

you know what that sound is? its the sound of about 5-600 bean in inspection, diagnosis, and repair. if youre lucky itll just be alignment

you know what that sound is? its the sound of about 5-600 bean in inspection, diagnosis, and repair. if youre lucky itll just be alignment

clogged cat can cause the bogging which you said you was gittin

you should see no ill effects the only thing thats happening is, your alternator is coming under load from the boom boom, causing your engine to work a tad bit harder to keep the car at idle, as for oil changes... oil filters should be changed every time your oil is changed... if you leave your old oil filter with your new oil, you new oil will be contaminated by particles that your old oil contained.. such contaminants could include metal shavings from wearing of your rod or main bears, and possibly dirt and things from a not so well filtered intake. fram is all advertising, the best filters usually come from the factory believe it or not, they have the highest micron filtration spec.

not to mention most cars need their computers to be tuned to allow for performance increases, doing upgrades without doing so can rob you of performance. back pressure is not need in a turbo system... back pressure causes resistance on the turbo affecting how it spools, therefore less backpressure greater spooling allowing it to properly increase your volumetric efficiency of your engine. now based on my knowledge i could point out that there is valve overlap in between the exhaust stroke and intake stroke, the exhaust valve is smaller in diameter which causes the exhaust gases to be pushed out at a higher velocity, this low pressure created by the exhaust gases leaving causes a vacuum effect on intake air sucking it in. with reduced back pressure a greater quantity of air to be drawn into the combustion chamber causing your car to run leaner, which in turn causes performance issues. youve been mechanic'd

good batts got the group 31 and group 78dt. paid 210 for th big one and 170 for the smaller on. im in canada so... we get fucked up here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9iGt343wNA&ob=av2n god damn this guy spits out the metal. raggae and metal i love it. anybody else know of any other raggae/metal bands?

damn man you really are an inspiration to us all. goes to show that hard work, dedication, bass, and a take no shit attitude can help you achieve all your goals. love it.

you lucky bastards. your neighbours to the north endure 8 months of winter and 2 months of summer, with the other 2 being the middle shit weather.

i will undoubtedly be doing that as well. it will work just as good on the floor as well? *i see it works mainly as a cushion of sorts for airborne sounds. it will have some effect on the floor then. those old schoool porsches come with nothing in the way of sound deadening and the carpet is alot thinner than your conventional cars', in other words there is no factory deadener.

DECENT! EDIT: yep i feel pretty stupid as i can see it says "free sample" in your sig *facepalm*. pm sent anyways back to the concept of using overkill and damplifier. should i use overkill over the whole floor like most people do with deadener mats? of course the damplier would be under the overkill. haha under the over.

haha well its true , every time i get a tiny scratch on the paint i envision him taking a sledgehammer to my car as payback. i can only imagine if i cut a hole in his car and it wasnt right and had to fuck it up some more to get it right...hed probably just t-bone me in the middle of an intersection with his truck. and then make me pay for the damages

i have to ask. is this sample free? if so then yes i would love a sample, I will probably place an order after i get back from vacation in 2 weeks after ive tried out the product. i have some dynamat left over too buttt ive just heard to many rave reviews about second skin.

Who are you? The thread police? If he has question on this particular car he has every right to ask some basic questions on it. There have been many a star that have had systems put into sports cars over the years so why is what he is doing that is so wrong? I would get a couple of the small xs power batteries to help distribute the load over a wider area, what you'll want to do is get enough capacity in a battery bank as possible to help support the system till you can find or have an alt made to take over charging of the system. well ive posted like 4 threads in the last day sooo sue me... and this jagaloon commented on the one about me being a pouty bitch. all the other ones were car audio questions. im gathering info so i can start on his car. and with my dads beloved car im not just gonna go into it guns a blazin cuz if i fuck something up he'll fuck me up.

what about that alpha damp. it may be heavier but apparently it can dampen a panel all in a small under square foot mat. the goal is not to go all out with deadner, being conservative on the deadner to keep weight down while using the deadner in the most effective way. the luxury liner is a mass loader so i was thinking not using it. i was thinking damplifier and some overkill over top. i know i posted this in second skin but the product doesnt have to be second skin, im looking for any lightweight effective non shit deadner.

im taking on my dads porsche build and i want a lightweight deadner, probably second skin... also id like to use as little as possible i dont want to do the entire floor and all the panels, so along with which deadner to use id like to know the best places to use the deadener? engines in the back so id assume id do the back tray and wall behind the seats.

no ive already stated that they are going where the back seats are... putting them in the front "trunk" is yes fucking retarded. my dad only got 2 8" jl w3's.. running from a jl 600/1 xd. he likes his music but hes told me "its lacking any sort of bass". its a porsche yes, but its a 1979 911 targa with quite a few body scratches from well me when i was alot less careful. its his baby that he has had for longer than ive been alive. i cant see why not do a sub setup... explain to me why not? its not like im gonna slap a mdf box in the back and leave it unpainted like i would in my shitbox car. im probably gonna use alot of glass and birch, so if your thoughts were weight issues then it wont be an issue.

no no just the battery is in the front, and engines in back. there is really not much to gather inspiration from though as most people put the subs in the hood trunk, however there are barely any effing holes in the firewall soooo no basically its like stuffing a sub in completely airtight trunk... stupid yes. the subs are going where the back seats are, probably fiberglassing, with grown up kids there is no need for the back seats any way. its really sad my dad loves working on his car, his motorbike, and helpin me out, but he never has time due to work and commitments around the house, my build is sort of coming to an end and time i take his build into my hands. I love this guy and the least i can do is build him a decent setup, little does he know ive got alot of ideas in my mind.

key here is for lightweight though right so i dont want the biggest xs. and if youd like to know how they work i shall share with you. the alternator fits inside the center of the fan, there is a pulley that spins the alt, but it also spins the fan. this setup is not very good for alt performance because if you can see in the pic there is barely any room for airflow to the alt so the alt heating up and voltage drops are a common problem. Basically there is no way to just have a bracket made for a nice HO alt.

ya people run 15.7 alt output, 14.7 volts is charging voltage of your battery.. soo you could probably scope up your settings bit

well the alt is hooked to the fan, so there is no bracket that you make, if you noticed non of them had pulleys. also its just his car he loves it, he isnt putting that much weight in it, only 2 8's are going in on a tiny jl 600xd amp, hes taking out some speakers and possibly one of the mids amps. its not going to add that much weight..definetly less than a person. and the 1979 porsche 911 sc doesnt spin the tires in third without alot of upgrades, fuck sorry i mean engine swap. and thats not an option, unless he steals it haha an upgrade would be like 10 grand. he messaged mechman and they just said no. and im very scepticle about sending the alt in to have it "rebuilt". plus i looked at rebuilds and the max is 120 amps. idle output probably is in the pooper and he usually drives his car in traffic. also any recommendations on how to upgrade electrical? the batter right now is in the front, and alt in the back... sooo relocate battery or fork out the money for all that gauge

are we talking charging battery voltage or alternator output voltage?

holy jesus, under a GEE?! damn thats solid, i was honestly expecting it was over that. thats like hair trick on legit "budget build" budget.